Mr. Foxen

Hold the string still, vibrate the wood the magnetic is attached too, sound comes out. Even in a solid body the wood vibrates, you can feel it, its an additional thing to the string vibrating.

[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1339705278' post='1693187'] A hollow-bodied acoustic instrument's tone is really heavily dominated by the construction - the body plus soundholes act like a Helmholtz resonator, analogous to a tuned reflex speaker cab. The top is very thin and usually braced to give a particular stiffness-weight ratio which itself (with the shape) gives particular modal resonance properties, then this interacts with the back/sides... it's a pretty complicated system! A solid body doesn't have the chamber resonance to contend with, and the greater weight and thickness means resonances will be shifted higher and amplified far less. [/quote] Whole bunch of incorrect assumptions there. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1339705309' post='1693188'] good question. But are you talking a pick up (Which I always thought was a little odd thing to do) or a Piezo system? [/quote] Both are pickups. Either applies, since I have both options, will probably do both. But I'm mostly about the acoustic output. Same with my electric basses, play unplugged for vast majority of time, best way to ensure my fingers make sounds I want come out of my bass.

[quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1339688007' post='1692755'] Acoustics as I think ou7shined pointed out are a whole different thing. [/quote] If I stick a pickup to it, how are they different?

I'm making an acoustic instrument out of plywood right now. The tone of it is going to blow minds.

I think what was established was that the influence of materials on tone wasn't as simply predictable as the 'x wood has y tone' that is put about. Wood does affect tone, but the relationship isn't so simple as can be summarised in generalisations.

That should be able to run right to a power amp, the single pedal one will, provided the power amp input sensitivity is right (think 1v or less is ideal). What power amp did you have in mind? Not sure the Schroder cab is best match for purpose, since they are fairly coloured so would counter the rig sim from the Sansamp, plus if you have the power from the power amp, could go for a less sensitive cab.

How much are you planning on throwing your bass about? some woods don't take it so well, plus finish choices effect that. Basswood is really soft and dings easily. Without a scarf joint mahogany makes a dreadful neck material as it beaks easily, especially with an angled back headstock so the grain isn't continuous, only shysters would sell you that though, so prob won't be an issue. Of the woods you've listed, maple is most suitable for necks as is tough (provided suitable examples of maple are chosen) and other woods can be laminated with it for more strength. Ash has cool looking grain for a body, alder is consistently workable which is its main advantage, mahogany has a classic look, but is open grained, so needs effort for finishing (as does ash, but the grain pattern is cool and you can do effects like coloured grain filler on it that looks duff on mahogany).

Put the cones in the up facing top section, be pointing more at your ears that way.

[quote name='tayste_2000' timestamp='1339504045' post='1689376'] Does anyone know who the administrator for the Matamp forum is, really want to join but had my account held for like 5 days so far. PITA [/quote] Takes ages, my mate had trouble. PM username, I'd guess its same, but don't want to confuse matters if it isn't.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1339617520' post='1691682'] [size=3][font=verdana,geneva,sans-serif]According to TC's website it is capable of handling different AC voltages, with the note 'AC power cannot be switched. See authorized dealer/distributor for voltage modification information.'[/font][/size] [size=3][font=verdana,geneva,sans-serif]It sounds rather like it can be modified internally to accept UK voltage, but you'd need to check that with TC. Not sure how customs might react if they twig it doesn't meet EU standards though.[/font][/size] [/quote] Might be better checking on Tech21's website and asking them.

Better off using a VT bass pedal as a preamp into a power amp, still two items to carry, and one is loads lighter, same function. They didn't pass tests for European distribution for some reason, don't know what that reason is.

Plenty of things can clip in analogue and still sound good though, gives a lot more wiggle room. Some stuff sounds better like that, tape saturation and such. Clipping digital will always sound bad. Less forgiving format.

Inter sample clipping is another digital sounding giveaway that can happen. Explained reasonable well here: http://www.ttyc.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=53740&p=556884#p556882

Usually like youtube. Or like someone who doesn't know how to operate as many parameters as are adjustable in digital realm.

[quote name='RandomBass' timestamp='1339509031' post='1689512'] Where did you buy this from. You mentioned a shop, but I don't seem to be able to find anywhere that stocks it... Cheers Geoff [/quote] I know of one probably going in Bath, unless it already sold.

Under current laws, copyright is automatic. The guys behind the Amen break never sought royalties: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amen_break

Cable for studio monitors and such, XLR connectors suggested, and 2.5 sq mm, OBBM bass speaker cable uses 4mm for power handling. Dab of snake oil for the damping factor too.

OC2 is analogue and tracks not that well, but the glitch is good. OC3 is good at tracking as digital, but sound isn't as interesting.

[quote name='bremen' timestamp='1339355585' post='1687364'] Nobody panic! He's talking about using instrument cables for speaker outputs, not for connecting his amp to the mains. Worst that's likely to happen is that he'd pop the fuses and/or damage the amp, and that's pretty unlikely unless he's running a kilowatt or two into a low impedance load. If the worst doesn't happen, all he'll lose is a bit of power and reliability. [/quote] I was aware of thaat. Worst case scenario I described was for using an instrument lead instead of a spekaer lead. Shorted is low impednace, so low its nearly one, lots of hot, fire etc. is a potential, once the insulation melts through. [quote name='squire5' timestamp='1339358517' post='1687440'] Jeez,worried for a minute there guys.It's just that I regularly use a short instrument cable to connect my 1x15 cab.I'll look into getting a proper speaker cable.I suppose a length of stout 2 core mains cable would do,wouldn't it? PS Sorry for hijacking thread. [/quote] Mains flex makes excellent speaker cable.

[quote name='squire5' timestamp='1339350785' post='1687276'] Whats the worst that can happen if you do use instrument cable?As in a stop-gap measure? [/quote] Insulation melts, shorts, catches fire, sets other stuff on fire and burns down your house, the short kills your output devices, shorting them putting full rail voltage into your speakers, melting them and setting them on fire too. That's probably the worst directly.

Look out in Ebay links, I just spent all my gear stash money on a Hiwatt, but won't resist browsing for deals, the BIN ones won't last.

Bad company. Also use oversized jacks that knacker up sockets.

Don't get sold Monster cable.

Basically, if you unscrew the jack and see two equal cables in different colored sleeves, thats a speaker cable, if its a middle one in a sleeve and a bunched up one that spreads to surround the one going into the cable proper, that's an instrument one.