Mr. Foxen

[IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/Hiwatt/hiwatt007.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/Hiwatt/hiwatt001.jpg[/IMG]

Basically have to do batches of them to make the price not crazy for doing metal ones (it is CNC cutting then I do/have done whatever finishes individually, need to do about a dozen blanks at a time). For one off plastic ones, Bass Doc is your man as far as I recall.

If neo is the key word, then it doesn't matter. Neo has no effect on sound.

[quote name='Bass-Thing' timestamp='1339264759' post='1686141'] Basiclly I'm after one the same size as my SUB/Stingray neckplate. It's more an aesthetic thing than a practical necessity, especially as the original Stingrays came with 3 and then 4 hole plates until they introduced the 6 hole plates in the 90s I think. When you say 'not cheap' I appreciate obviously that this will be a hand crafted plate, but how much are we talking about? [/quote] If you can scan or photo it next to a ruler and give an idea of thickness, I can get a quote.

Can make one if you provide measurements. Won't be cheap like an ebay 4 bolt though.

The black of the burst in the sculpting says its not solid wood. I think there were a few grades of Antoria.

Don't know of anyone handwiring SS amps on turrets motivated mostly by pride in their work, so the difference shows in the upper end.

Think that sounds a lot like solder joints loose, especially the jack touching part, which is easy if you can solder, but the randomer pot noise might be a leaking capacitors putting dc across them, which you have to poke about with a meter to find and replace, spray and solder first to make sure it isn't easy things.

The 8 ohm 2x12 might be enough, and you have the option of adding more, although adding a 4x10 is kind of not the way, if you like the sound but want louder, add another the same. If you find the 4ohm 4x10 isn't enough, you are stuck.

[quote name='Lord Sausage' timestamp='1338910017' post='1680916'] Thanks a lot gents, however i have more dumb questions. Just say an amp (solid state) is 500w into 4 ohms then you buy two cabs one 4 ohms one 8 ohms, according to icastles calculator thing that would be 2.67 ohms. Would that damage the amp? Is the 500w into 4 ohms its minimum? It may not seem like it but this is helping loads even if i don't fully grasp it. i'm getting the basic message. I think! [/quote] It will say minimum load 4ohm, which is the important bit. some do down to 2ohm (peavey mostly). The watts part is a separate thing, but since the biggest number will always be the watts at minimum impedance, you can usually assume, but best to know the right thing to look for.

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1338903062' post='1680818'] +1. Most tube amps use a closed circuit switching output jack that shorts the output[b] if there's no speaker plugged in[/b]. That's to prevent damage from what really does bother tubes, which is no load. They're not happy with a load higher than the tap rating either, but a load lower than the tap rating is to a tube as water is to a duck. [/quote] Would more specifically say if there's no lead plugged in, it will be open if a lead is plugged in with no speaker on the end, and that is the trouble place.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1338896056' post='1680664'] Oxblood posted an informative post ages ago. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/5427-valve-amp-heat/page__view__findpost__p__57345"]http://basschat.co.u...dpost__p__57345[/url] He knows his stuff as well - he virtually rebuilt a VA350. [/quote] That says a short causes no harm at all, which is as I said, low impedance is not an issue for damage concerns.

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1338893562' post='1680570'] Which is why people with 15" complain they can't hear the bass ...so have to feel it across the stage..which is NOT what you want, IMO. Of course, you hear the bass, but it can be too droney. So then, they raise it upto ear level or add another cab...when the 115 only scores from being compact anyway. It is one of the reasons why I have always said it is NOT a one cab solution but there you go. It might suit some. So, couple this with a bass emphasis from the cab you are starting too far down the hill to get anywhere. The bass lacks focus from a positional sense and it degrades even further. You might rescue it to a degree by playing with an aggressive pick style but probably not. Adding a 210 might sharpen things up a bit... but a 2x210 would do the whole job better, IMO/IME. Which is why the standard tends to 410. [/quote] 4x10 in standard format is more direction than a 1x15 because it has a broader cone area, so it makes the inaudibility issue worse.

[quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1338893027' post='1680552'] If you run a valve amp at anything other than its correct impedance you will damage the valves, and the biasing circuitry. You will probably blow fuses so the amp will stop dead in its tracks. That will be an expensive repair job. [/quote] Can you explain why? Especially for low impedance loads.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1338878986' post='1680296'] I understood that too low an impedance would run the valves hotter, shortening their life. Though not disastrous, blowing a valve is never a good thing. [/quote] With no reason to do so, probably better not doing it, but I've never heard any decent explanation of why that should be so that wasn't actually a misplaced description of the output of solid state amps, between that and the shorting jacks, have been inclined to think there isn't much trouble from it aside from sounding a bit wrong.

[quote name='Musky' timestamp='1338851716' post='1680166'] The total thermal power handling of your speakers will be 500w plus the wattage of your extra cab, with the power being shared equally between them. [/quote] In that scenario its double the power handling of the weakest cab, since power is shared equally, it doesn't go to the higher one once the weaker one is 'full' [quote name='Musky' timestamp='1338851716' post='1680166'] Valve amps work differently in that they always have the maximum stated wattage available, but must be switched to the correct impedance (they'll either have a switch or separate speaker outputs marked with the appropriate impedance). Using a valve amp at too high an impedance (or without any speakers connected) will leave you with an expensive repair bill - too low and you'll shorten the life of the valves. [/quote] Too low is apparently OK, the output jacks are shorting to stop death in case of no load, its plugged in to amp with nothing on the lead that is the killer, since that opens the short. Basically, a full circuit on the secondary means the transformer still works as a transformer due to current being able to pass through the completed coil giving it an inductance value, instead of an electromagnet, where the field collapses and puts a voltage spike back through the valves. This is bit on the limits of my understanding, but that is how I currently picture it.

1x15s aren't uncommonly in the exact same sized box as a 2x10.

Heading toward tempted, looks like my new Compact will be leaving as soon as it arrives.

Using mixed stuff is unpredictable, so you have to specifically try out each combination to know what they sound like, and the dispersion of sound round the room is less predictable than when using identical cabs, so you have to move about a bunch to check how they do combine (part of the predictability thing is in how your brain compensates for room sound due to awareness of walls and such). Ideal place to listen is where a mic would be when your rig is miced, and when you have to different sounding speakers, that shows the problem with mixing speakers.

Important thing to remember about power handling figures is that it is thermal power handling, and the likely cause of damage to speakers from overpowering playing bass guitar is not thermal but mechanical, so the mechanical damage limit is the important one, known as maximum excursion, and farting is the warning that you are approaching it. The actual amount of power it takes to reach the limit varies with frequency by a pretty massive amount, so it can't be expressed in a single number.

With a head and cab, you have the option of swapping about, and taking just the head to shared backline gigs. Plus the cab alone will be easier to sell than a combo with a missing amp if yo don't like it. Should probably try the 2x10 and the 1x15 for a preference, but the 2x10 has more potential to double up and do the vertical stack thing.

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1338592063' post='1677113'] We've been over this. Repeatedly. [b][size=6]Proof that you gave an item to a courier is not what paypal will accept as proof of delivery to the buyer. [/size][/b] [/quote] You have no obligation to deliver an item that is being collected by the buyer. That is all of the point. If you have no obligation to deliver, because its a collect item, then you cannot be held responsible for ensuring delivery. How hard is that to grasp?

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1338589570' post='1677082'] the case of cash and collection using paypal [/quote] How does that question even make sense? If you have their money, and they've got their goods, you don't need protection. The only thing that can happen is they try and use their protection by claiming non-delivery, whereupon you have the evidence that delivery was nothing to do with you, and additionally the evidence you have handed over goods to a courier in the form of the pickup receipt.

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1338585858' post='1676992'] Paypal and eBay are not independent. They are owned by the same people. The cases I mentioned were ebay auctions where the buyer paid by paypal. [/quote] But they do have seperate dispute resolution processes, the paypal one applies to both, but the ebay one only applies to ebay transactions, and ebay fully co-operate with paypal in the sense of releasing all information such as the transaction details. Like the bit that entirely lacks a mention of posting on this item, and all of the messages exchanged. [quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1338585858' post='1676992'] Seeing as you were so keen on posting links earlier---please show me the part of eBay's t&cs which backs up your argument. Especially [url="http://pages.ebay.co.uk/help/seller-protection-faq.html#How%20are%20sellers%20protected%20from%20losing%20a%20case?"]given this entry from their FAQ[/url] [size=3][i][color=#333333][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]For “item not received” cases, if sellers post the item within their stated handling time and provide a valid proof of delivery for the item, eBay is likely to decide in their favour.[/font][/color][/i] [color=#333333][font=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][i]“Proof of delivery” is [b]online documentation[/b] from a postal company that includes [b]all of the following[/b]:[/i][/font][/color][/size][list] [*][size=3][i]A status of “delivered” (or equivalent in the country to which the item was delivered) and the date of delivery.[/i][/size] [*][size=3][i]The recipient’s address, showing at least the city/county or postcode (or international equivalent).[/i][/size] [*][size=3][i]Signature Confirmation for transactions that total £150 or more.[/i][/size] [/list] [/quote] This is still regarding the seller posting, which is not the case if the buyer has the item collected. You are welcome to think its trolling, but the same logic in what I've said applies from the very start, which is why you have to keep on pretending the seller is posting the item in order to form a rebuttal, when that is not the case.

[quote name='uncle psychosis' timestamp='1338584968' post='1676961'] Another reason why paypal / ebay are not popular. They insist on making paypal a payment option but their protection policies mean that a seller who accepts paypal for a collection item is not necessarily protected. Its a nasty catch-22 that is well documented. Personally speaking, if I was selling something high value cash-on-collection I would insist on the buyer paying cash. I'd rather take the feedback/fees hit than risk getting scammed. [/quote] With the Ebay protection (bearing in mind all the preceding stuff mentioned was paypal independent of ebay) you have the written agreement in the form of your invoice and payment details saying 'buyer to collect' plus all communication on record to back you up in case of issues, which makes it a pretty different deal to a pure paypal transaction, where its your word against theirs.