MatthewKeys

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1213408' date='Apr 28 2011, 01:04 AM']If you are doing the 2x10 + 4x10, try and get matching ones with the same speakers, and the 2x10 double the impedance of the 4x10, so when used together, each individual speakers gets the same power.[/quote] sorry? Confused! How would I go about doing that?

[quote name='JTUK' post='1213399' date='Apr 28 2011, 12:44 AM']I'd go 1x15 plus 2x10 for a decent stack height, typically. I am not sure Ampeg would be my choice of cabs though I liked my last rig of 1x15 plus 2x10 as it had both cut and depth and am thinking I will go back to it for larger gigs. It will be more portable than my second choice of 610 in a single cab. Depending what power you are putting into the cabs, but a 300w 15 and 350w 2x10 makes more sense that a 4x10 plus 2x10 to me... but as long as the cabs can handle the split power then no real problem. If aesthetics are an issue, the 2x4x10 is good...but carry and transport might be a factor[/quote] Transport would not really be an issue. Would it be okay to use a 450watt (svt3 pro) head to power a 410 and a 210? I think the 210's are only 200 watts at 8 ohms and the 410 is 500watts at 8ohms. [quote name='jetofuj' post='1213401' date='Apr 28 2011, 12:45 AM']Running two 2x10 might not have enough bottom end. I know few guys running 1x15 + 2x10 with 3 Pros with good results. If money is not a big problem, I'd look for a quality 2x12 cab like Aguilar DB.[/quote] Money could be a bit of an issue! I'm looking to spend around £500 or less for used.

Hey everyone, thanks for the opinions @xgsjx well i'd preferably like a matching rig to go with my SVT3 PRO. But what are these other cabs you can recommend? @chris b, how does the 2x10 sound by itself because if I did get the 210HE and the 410HE i'd be taking the 210 to the occasional small gig and band practices? Thankss

[quote name='xgsjx' post='1213317' date='Apr 27 2011, 11:16 PM']None. Either 2 2x10s or 2 1x15s or maybe 2 4x10s if you don't like the look of stacked vertical cabs. If it has to be one of the bunch above, the 2x10 & the 4x10. That way you're not mixing up speaker sizes.[/quote] What is wrong with mixing speaker sizes? Sorry i'm not good at this at all haha [quote name='rmshaw37' post='1213318' date='Apr 27 2011, 11:17 PM']I personally don't like to combine drivers without splitting signal. I like the way the 15 splits really low with high mids I don't like the 410hlf, seems to do REALLY low, almost boom with a normal 410 sound on top the 210 gives a lot of punch but not much bass The 410he is a nice all rounder, more "round" sounding than the rest! So depends what you're after, personally, with one tone, a 410he with a 210 on top Sure there will be as many opinions as people though![/quote] Yeah I have the 410HLF at the moment and it's a horribly boomy and muddy cabinet. Will the 410HE and the 210HE have alot more high end than my current cabinet? I'd be using an SVT3 pro.

Hey there I was just wondering what is generally more recommended out of the following configurations of the ampeg SVT classic range: 410HE cab with a 210HE 410HE cab with a 115 210HE with a 115 Thanks!

[quote name='paulwillson' post='1211565' date='Apr 26 2011, 11:42 AM']try adding another cab i have an svt3 too, at 8 ohms it can get lost in the mix sometimes in a band setting but running it at 4 ohms (svt classic 410 and 210) it shits over everything![/quote] @Primebass.. Maybe I am not describing how awful the cabinet sounds well enough! Theres something wrong with the tweeter as it's not functioning properly.. but about the 4 10s that is yet to be confirmed. @Paul, Yeah my cabinet atm is 4 ohms, it's the 410Hlf. But I was thinking of getting an 8x10 or a 6x10 and seeing how that sounds with it. Does anyone know where I can get a cheap checkup on my cabinet?

Looks like it's going to cost £50 just to get this cabinet inspected by the guys at the surrey amp hospital... I can't even imagine how expensive the actual repair will be. Does anyone want to buy this broken cabinet off me?

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1207410' date='Apr 21 2011, 07:08 PM']That cab, IMO, is VERY bass heavy! I have heard some call it a bit muddy. Something doesnt seem right though.[/quote] Really? I just want to fix it so it's working properly then sell it. Are 6x10s and 8x10's less bass heavy? Or are all Ampeg cabinets like that. Thanks

[quote name='alexclaber' post='1207115' date='Apr 21 2011, 02:32 PM']The 'glass fuses' aka bulbs only light up when you're trying to push too much power through the tweeter. As they glow they soak up excess power and if you continue to push more and more power through they eventually blow like a fuse to protect the tweeter. Did you try playing recorded music through the rig?[/quote] Hey When I was testing the glass fuses to see if they lighted up, my volume was full on the tweeter and on my amp. I boosted treble and they didn't light up in the slightest.. not a spark. And no, I took out the tweeter and used it on my dads P.A system and played music through it that way, it sounded as if it was working fine. But the problem is not just the tweeter not working, the entire cabinet sounds rubbish. The 4 10s by themselves sound absolutely awful, at band practice you cant make out a single note i'm playing. I resulted in using my friends £100 pound combo because it sounded better than my rig. Thanks!

hey everyone thanks for the replies. As for my tweeter, a friend of mine told me about having a look at the crossover in my 410hlf.. so I did, again; he suggested that the glass fuses could be blown or something along them lines. The glass fuses look intact, but they do not light up or spark or anything when my amp is turned on with the tweeter at various volumes. I'm not sure if they are supposed to light up or not but I thought it would be worth mentioning! Any ideas anyone? Thanks!

Hey everyone, thanks for all the replies! But as for the tweeter, there is DEFINITELY a problem. There is NO significant change when changing between full and completely off, there is only a bit of extra noise and a tiny bit of high end added. I remember when I first got my cabinet secondhand, the tweeter was really harsh and I had to keep it at like half way.. but this doesn't come close even when full now... But i'm pretty sure it's not the tweeter that is broken because I connected it to my dads P.A system and we played music through it and it sounds fine. What could it possibly be if it's not the actual tweeter? Thanks

Hey I just have a few questions about the ampeg svt3 pro in general, because there is a few things happening and i'm just curious whether it's supposed to do what it's doing! 1. Takes a while for the sound the come out after turning it on 2. Sounds like a character in a computer game is dying whenever I turn off my amp? If you don't get what I mean I will try to video it soon. 3. Not very loud, I practice it at Gain half way, Master halfway with a passive bass Now onto the svt410hlf! I bought a new tweeter for my 410HLF cabinet and it arrived today, I bought it because my old tweeter was having no/little effect on the high end, all it really did was add an extra bit of hiss and I was told by the people at loud technologies that it's most likely I had blown my tweeter. Apparently not, the new tweeter is having exactly the same problem! I have made sure I connected it the right way round. I took off the back of the amp and made sure everything was plugged in and intact, which it was..so I really don't know what is going on. Any ideas? Thanks!

[quote name='icastle' post='1192168' date='Apr 7 2011, 07:45 PM']First thing to check would be did you connect the replacement tweeter the right way round (red wire to the + terminal on the tweeter)? If that's ok then I think there's an attenuator control on the back of the 410HLF? I'd take a look at the wiring going to and from the attenuator assembly. If that looks intact then the attenuator itself would be my prime suspect at that point. HTH[/quote] Hey Yes I have connected it the right way round, and I even tried connecting it the wrong way round! And yes i've taken the back on and made sure everything is connected properly, everything looks as it should, I really don't know what to do! I don't want to buy any more replacement parts unless I know that is for sure what is wrong with my amp. Do you know anyone in the Kent Area who could actually diagnose what is wrong with it for me? Thanks

Hey Well basically, I bought a new tweeter because my old one was having little or no effect on the high end of my cabinet apart from a bit of extra hiss. I just plugged my new tweeter in (official ampeg tweeter) and I am having exactly the same problem, little or no effect... Anybody know what's going on? Could I fix it at home? How much would it cost to get repaired if not? This is really bugging me! Thanks

I've played the newest fender aerodyne jazz bass and hated it, the worst thing fender has ever made IMO. If you want something with a PJ set up I recommend getting an 80's MIJ Precision special bass. Like the original one duff McKagan used but not his current signature model. They made them in black which basically looks the same as an Aerodyne but way better.

[quote name='dood' post='1171445' date='Mar 21 2011, 10:25 PM']heh heh! Don't apologise! That's what we're here for! - Well if you go somewhere and buy a premium tested (for noise and microphonics etc) JJ ECC83S, the chances are the price won't be much different from a Harma STR from Watford Valves. That said though, I don't really know what tests one company does vs another and therefore have no leanings. Derek at Watford Valves has been really helpful to me in the past though and I've not had anything to worry about with the Harmas yet.. I've revalved nearly all my valve gear with Harmas too and as I say, I think they are a great improvement over a stock Sovtek. Watford Valves do sell the JJ badged version too, but I don't know if they are a tested version.[/quote] I think I will settle for the Harma ones, they seem pretty reliable! Because my amp has, one 12AU7 in it, does it mean I have to buy a replacement 12AU7 too?.. if so, what one? Or could I replace it with a 12AX7? Thanks!

[quote name='dood' post='1171057' date='Mar 21 2011, 06:44 PM']The Harma brand is Watford Valves' own. They select quality valves and drive test them to 'premium' standard and the best ones get badged with the Harma name and logo. In a report on their website they say that the Harma Diamond STR is a replica of the Telefunken ECC803s / Telsa E83CC made by JJ Valves. I'm actually a fan of these - I like how they sound - I've owned both the Harma versions and the JJ versions. I would choose either of these over a Sovtek any day, but that's just my taste. The Harma Retro is also also an ECC83 (which is a like for like 12AX7) - but this one is a recreation of the Mullard ECC83. As far as I recall, they were interested in finding a valve that sounded like the Mullard vs one that was constructed the same. On the subject of Sovtek - they are a huge manufacturer and companies such as ElectroHarmonix and GT rebadge Sovteks for their own distribution.[/quote] Ah it's starting to make sense now So do I buy JJ or Harma? Sorry for the questions!

[quote name='paul_5' post='1170297' date='Mar 21 2011, 07:18 AM']I'd recommend a chat with the chaps at Watford Valves, they seem to know their Ampeg stuff inside and out, sorted mine out a treat.[/quote] I had a chat with them on the phone but I couldn't understand a lot of what he was saying most of the time because he was talking quietly.. he said something about 'STR HARMA' and a harma retro... any idea what that means?

[quote name='Musky' post='1168985' date='Mar 19 2011, 10:57 PM']You might like to checkout the [url="http://www.finnbass.com/showthread.php?t=22"]valve comparison thread[/url] over on finnbass. Very informative, and written by a guy who likes his valves![/quote] Thanks for that, I will read into it Do you know what valves I would have to buy in terms of like AX7 and AU7s.. because my amps original valves are 3 12AX7 in the preamp, and one 12AX7 and one 12A7 in the driver tube part. Does that mean I have to buy 4 12AX7 and 1 12AU7... or can I use 5 12AX7's? Thanks

Get an ampeg! SVT7 or SVT4. They are punchy

[quote name='chris_b' post='1168369' date='Mar 19 2011, 03:44 PM']Never mind the rumour mill, what does the amp sound like now? Pre amp valves don't wear and fail like power amp valves can. If you're happy with your sound I'd leave it. If you change the valves you will probably alter the tone, cos that's what valves do.[/quote] It sounds a bit Lo-Fi, muddy and unresponsive I guess. I would like it to be punchier and more define, would changing tubes do that?

Hey, I was just wondering if changing the preamp tubes in my SVT3 PRO would have a significant impact on the tone of it? The current valves in there are sovteks and I have heard some not so good things about them. And if I was to revalve it, how would I go about doing it, like what valves would I replace them with etc? In my amp, there are: Three, Sovtek 12AX7WA One, sovtek groove tube 12AX7R (ECC83) or something like that And One, Electro harmonix 12AU7A (ECC82) Thanks!

thanks guys