alyctes

Why would anyone fake it? It's not as though it would be worth much - £200 max, I guess? It's obviously been brutalised, but most of the shapes are right for an RBX200 (headstock, electrics cover, neck plate). I guess it might be a fake, but it looks worth a punt to me. What am I missing?

The Weavers were the start of my interest in popular music. A sad loss, and an underappreciated talent.

[quote name='Fionn' timestamp='1390906975' post='2351031'] Are those Westfield basses any good (relatively speaking, of course)? [/quote] They aren't bad, IMO. For what they cost, a little TLC (fret dress, etc.) makes them pretty good for a starter. Build quality can be patchy, so look carefully if you're tempted.

[quote name='BigRedX' timestamp='1390854642' post='2350514'] Just make sure you get one with a volume aerial as well as the pitch one. Many of the cheaper models don't have the volume aerial as it significantly cuts down on the amount of circuitry, but even as some who just waves their hands about in front of the Theremin rather than seriously trying to get a tune out of it, the second aerial makes a big difference to the expressiveness of it. [/quote] Thank you, that's got to be good advice and I'll take it.

[quote name='dan670844' timestamp='1390771645' post='2349388'] 100% agree I have a MIM jazz great bass, with better pickups. On mine the earth wire under bridge was squashed into the paint so was not making contact, so I re attached and it improved greatly. Also improved by putting some self adhesive shielding tape neath the pick guard [/quote] Yes to both. You could also put conductive tape on the body under the bridge, so that the wire touches the tape [u]and[/u] the bridge? That way even if the wire is pushed into the tape it should still have a good earth.

Do I remember correctly that Gibson bridge spacings are narrow? If they are, then any aftermarket bridge designed to fit a Gibson would also be narrow

I guess the other option is a custom scratchplate, with the controls and the jack mounted on it. This would probably mean removing all the electrics, routing out the front of the cavity so it's tidy, and mounting controls and jack on it. That would be a lot simpler, and because your bass already has a scratchplate it should be manageable without changing the setup much. You might have problems if the body shape curves away from the plane of the existing scratchplate though - I don't know how easy it is to put a permanent curve in a scratchplate.

Ouch... I have a Cort C4P with a similar problem, so I've been thinking about this. I think the best bet will be to [b]carefully[/b] remove the jack and all the electrics from the cavity and make a carefully-shaped piece of aluminium or steel plate to put in the cavity, then glue and clamp up the fragments and the plate so that the plate supports the fragments from behind, if you get my drift. Obviously the plate would have to be drilled to let the jack pass through. Problems with this I can see are: - the bits may fall out and might be beyond reassembly. I think that photos and slow-drying glue should sort this. - for this reason, the jack would have to be held tightly while unscrewing the nut which holds it. - I think it would be wise to earth the plate. - there may not be enough space in the cavity for the plate (especially since it's conductive - the electrics would have to be separated from it). - the cracks will probably always be visible if you look closely. I think it's probably a luthier job, TBH. I'd get an estimate first, personally.

[quote name='skankdelvar' timestamp='1331574640' post='1575145'] Theramins? Real men play the musical saw. Note the player's use of thigh vibrato. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4GpJkukZ29I&feature=related[/media] [/quote] Great tone. He'd never get tone like that from a plywood-handled saw.

I want a theremin. I guess it will have to be a kit though, I can't justify spending £200 on one...

The Pocket Rocket I bought was quite fragile.

I bought John's Cimar P-bass (the second bass I've bought from him). All went well, he's a good chap and very generous with bits he no longer has a use for. Thanks John, and good luck with your move.

Flats are a different thing, on fretted basses. You should definitely try that. ut be aware, flats can make a person lazy... suddenly you wind up sliding everywhere

Nice

The T-40 should go IMO. If you're not going to use it at rehearsal, then it forces you to have another bass. Sell it. After that, it's down to emotional issues, but I'd keep the G+L anyway.

I bought a router - not a Dremel, a proper woodworker's tool - and it's too big and scary for me to do anything with... Should have got a Dremel