apa

Or convert it to an IGES or Polygon. They are usually safe bets. This is all getting rather geeky lol A

I think Wizard in South Wales do repairs like this. Google wizard Pickups. Bought some thumpers from them recently and a nice personal service.

[quote name='waldemar' post='1172845' date='Mar 23 2011, 01:44 AM']Thank you all for your posts. Count: The neck's just a bit too daunting for me, really - being the business end of the project and arguably the bit that [i][u]really[/u][/i] does need to be right (playability wise) I'd sooner buy something that's 'reasonably easy' to modify off the shelf - that's not to say that I wouldn't make my own at some point, just not now, I'm far too green... Apa - yeah, the models illustrated in the OP are based on NURBS - or rather Cinema4D hyper-nurbs, which some might argue aren't [i]real[/i] NURBS but for my purposes (so far) work in a near as dammit fashion. I do have a friend who has limited access to a machine that he'll let me put some high density polystyrene through, so I dare say I'll learn a bit from that before offering up a final model to someone with the experience to do the job properly. All interesting stuff, and should it go slightly awry, I don't mind cracking out the sandpaper... Cheers![/quote] Yep if you want a real tangent/curvature flow you need NURBS I think your there with your mate and his machine. As long as you have the right post processor your good to go. May I suggest you try a couple of test peices at 1/4 scale to save on materials and time using the styrene. The way to match the halfs when you flip them over is the make damn sure your stock (The lump your machining out of) is 110% square. Then position a reference edge on 2 sides to the bed. You can use the CNC and a 'wobble bar' to get all this right. Then machine from the centre. Im assuming your friend knows how to use the machine so he will know what I mean. Remember preperation is 9/10th of the work and measure twice, cut once. Have fun and look forward to the outcome A

Doesnt matter - please delete

I got as far as pressing the button on a 3D modelled body for a Ray project. Only thing stopping me was the guy who was programming the Tooling path. (I would have done it if they would let me on thier software for a couple of hours!!) It all depends on the quality of the kit your using both Software and hardwear. If you take your time you could get some decent results from spline curves then finish the curvature by hand. (Although if you want the ultimate you should use NURBS ) Try and find a tool makers or fabricators around your area and like crazy kiwi says, the local uni / colleges may be interested. I do think you could machine out anything with a 3 1/2 axis machine as long as there arent any undercuts. The biggest problem is the practicalities of clamping and setting up the machining. My solution was to machine one half out like a jigsaw piece with spru sections left in to hold the body in the stock material then turn it over and machine the other side out with pegs for reference positions. Like I say it never happened but was the plan. Bare in mind that all that would involve quite a bit of expencive machinists and programmers time unless they wouldnt mind you wandering around thier machine shop playing with thier expencive and sharp tools!! Hope this helps A

I bow to superior knowledge and get my coat A

Damn Now I want a real one! I now understand the true meaning of GAS. Its wrong but feels so good. A

[quote name='tarcher' post='1170803' date='Mar 21 2011, 04:00 PM']So there you go. A bass thats given 37 pages of discussion,sorted out Sue Ryders stock,given a lot of pleasure to so many people as well as giving a test bed for you all to try out different things. All for sixty notes. Thats value for money.[/quote] Brings a tear to the eye and makes me feel all fuzzy inside A

[quote name='tom1946' post='1170312' date='Mar 21 2011, 07:56 AM']I think I might part out my 3 spare ones if they get that kind of money.[/quote] And you all laughed when I said they would become collectors items HOOO HHAAAA HHAAAA HHAAAAAHHHH A

Ive just bought a new Ray34 Natural for £570 all in and its an absolutly beautiful bass. Build quality is realy good. Cant fault it one bit. Cant compare it to a real ray but Im happy with mine. I doubt if I could get a SH ray for that price in mint condition. Then again I dont do sloppy seconds A

[quote name='tommorichards' post='1170151' date='Mar 20 2011, 10:25 PM']Ritter do some weird stuff. I mean, im not even sure if this is a bass, i really cant tell [/quote] Bottle opener?? A

Lush, especially the headstock. Love that curve backwards A

[quote name='silentbob' post='1169754' date='Mar 20 2011, 06:09 PM']Just spotted this on the bay, looks like a Ryder body. Wonder how much it'll go for? [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110662256290&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...e=STRK:MEWAX:IT[/url][/quote] Yep looks like a genuine Ryder body to me. A

OK I give up.................. I cant find Lisa!! A

[quote name='hellothere' post='1169662' date='Mar 20 2011, 04:32 PM']Is it a different neck (I thought it was until I saw the Ryder bit) or did you do somethign to it to make it look like that, if so what?[/quote] Hello there hellothere Im assuming you mean the headstock? I inlaid a strip of walnut burr veneer in the middle bit. The top and bottom is painted with green emulsion (standard B&Q tester for walls) as a base then sized with PVA glue and gilded with gold leaf. The 'Ryder' and 'R' Logos were done using asetate sheet (The A4 sheets you used to use for overhead projectors remember them!!) with the logos photocopied onto them. (I literally stuck the head under the scanner and cleaned it up using photoshop. Handy tip - I put a scale reference on a sticker when I photocopied it so that when I printed it out I could get it 1:1). You then have a stencil. This was stuck on the head with double sided tape and cut out. Did it twice. Once for the green 'shadow' then again for the gold leaf. The only two things Ive actually changed on this are the pups for Wizard Thumpers and veneered the finger board. Everything else is stock or cosmetic. A

A 'before and after' Shot The stock Ryder is on the left A [attachment=75211:PICT0001__2_.JPG]

Now this Im interested in too A

[quote name='setekh' post='1169003' date='Mar 19 2011, 11:24 PM']I'm guessing you played around with the fretboard, but did you also shave the neck? Great work, btw. This is what they should show on extreme makeover.[/quote] Hi setekh Yep the fingerboard is a strip of rosewood veneer stuck on the defretted original. Not sure what you mean by shaving the neck? If you mean thinning it in some way then no. Its as is. Just mucked around with the FB. Putting her next to the white stock ryder I have this one does appear to look sleaker especially the neck and headstock. It must be what I have done to her since they are identical physically. A

[quote name='Ancient Mariner' post='1168836' date='Mar 19 2011, 09:06 PM']Apa - that bass looks incredible - fantastic job, and well done![/quote] Cheers ears Probably best not to look too close though lol. A

I must say I am quite chuffed with the neck. I had Pete make a radius sanding block for it but I did give up on it most of the time and just did it by eye lol. If I could find my 1/4" to 3.5mm jack adaptor I would record the thing. Im trying not to play it too much since the vanish isnt 100% hard yet but Im having a mwah fest lol!! A

Cheers Jose and ou7shined Well Ive been waiting between coats (about 10) of varnish lol To be honest there are loads of mistakes / things Id do differently but the whole point of it is using a £60 bass to experiment. Ive never done anything like this before on a bass. The last thing I did was years ago and just respray, refret and re scratchplate an old Kay. Anyway to summise......... Sanded the front and back and veneered Burr Walnut using cold pressure method. (The black bits are leaching from a plate of steel used to flatten the veneer. This was a waste of time since it 'boinged' back into a lumpy mess as soon as it dried!!) I think it adds a little to it. The neck was defretted and veneered with rosewood using the dry iron method. Sides were painted with a standard emulsion tester you use on walls!! The fun bit was applying the gold leaf. My god its like painting with smoke!!! Evil stuff. You look at it and it disintegrates lol. By the time I got to the headstock I had sort of mastered (read concoured my fear) it a bit. I used PVA watered down as the size. Then the painful task of sanding sealer/sanding/sanding/sanding/ spray/sand/spray/sand/spray/sand etc etc etc. Ive never picked up never mind played a fretless before and been having a strum for an hour or two. Damn it sounds fab lol. All I can say is MMMMWWWWAAAAHHHHH lol. If I can figure out how to record a decent sound Ill put something up but dont hold your breath lol. Strings are Roto pressure wound 55's and pickups are wizard thumpers I have to say a big thanks to Pete at Thermotool in Bridgwater (one of our tame tool makers) for his help and programming. So basically I have a 22carot Gold plated £60 Bass Any more questions shoot............. A The stingray has had a change of plan. Using the original body and sprayed it black with rose wood scratch plate and ebony board. She (Rosie) should be ready next week

Bernice (Bernie).................. [attachment=75175:PICT0006.JPG][attachment=75173:PICT0004.JPG][attachment=75174:PICT0005.JPG][attach ment=75178:PICT0009.JPG][attachment=75177:PICT0008.JPG] [attachment=75176:PICT0007.JPG][attachment=75172:PICT0004__2_.JPG][attachment=75169:PICT0001.JPG][at tachment=75171:PICT0003.JPG][attachment=75170:PICT0002.JPG][attachment=75179:PICT0010.JPG]

All the old timers in the office are reminising away now. The Jet and Tony Duet aparently!! If it wasnt for guys like Jet............. RIP A