Dad3353

Sorry, and without meaning to sound harsh, I'd say 'Struggle away'. I've been struggling myself all afternoon with a recalcitrant 'virtual' model train loco that won't colour correctly, and haven't had time to do only Modding. Patience, Padawan; Patience. Peace.

See here ...

Hmm... Maybe. It's a long-winded exposé of what little effect tiny doses have, when played back through You-tube. The principles are pretty much OK, but the demonstration didn't convince my ears that it was worth messing about with 2.63 db here or there. Not the best subject matter for illustrating the propos, either, in my view. I do agree with the opening comments regarding 'referencing', though. Disclaimer : I have cloth ears.

What is this 'typo' of which you squeek..?

Had me worried for a minute, there.

Is that a typo..?

Hmm... I don't know about onions (well, I have grown 'em, and they're a staple, but I'm not an expert on 'em...). I do do 3D printing on occasion, however, and would be willing to give it a try, under certain conditions. The first (and non-negotiable...) is the tariff : the stuff I do, when I do it, costs one broad smile, no more, no less. I do this for fun, and it costs less than peanuts. Once that's been established and accepted, I'd need an accurate template (a scaled tracing, maybe a photo with a ruler beside as well..?) and a very clear idea as to what's expected. If you're happy with all of that, we could pass onto PM and sort something out. If you want. S'up to you. No pressure. Any help..? Meanwhile... Keep well, stay safe. Douglas

All the time, practising or not. It's an 'age' thing, I'm told (but started early, at about four or five, for me; I can't remember ...).

Mmm... Tea..!

An excellent initiative; much appreciated as a gesture, and all too rare in these modern times, so thanks for the thought. Disclaimer: I've not read in detail the whole treatise (a long diagonal read is all, for now...), but on the basis of that, I think I'd recommend downloading the Summary first (a much lighter download, and a very much lighter read..!). The full book is worthy, but wordy, and will require a sustained effort to read in its entirety. Well written, grammatically, but dense (partly by the nature of the subject...) and without a literary 'hook' to advance the narrative. This is not a reproach; it's par for the course in studies of the sort, but it's not light, bed-time reading, and has little 'page-turner' appeal. Interesting, then, as long as one is not expecting a Bond novel; disappointment awaits if that's the case. I'll not spoil the suspense concerning the Conclusion; each will reach their own. The tome shows that quite some quality time has been dedicated to the subject, and kudos is due for that alone. Well done, all concerned, and thanks again for sharing. Now, back to looking at shiny things...

Tell me about it..! ...

I made the 'mistake' of getting the very best from the outset, inspired at the time by the Joe Morello 'Seven Sound Set'. With my Camco kit, I bought Païste 602 Sound-Edge hats, crash and ride. What I didn't know at the time (but do now ...) was that they are not as resistant as other, lesser, cymbals. For the light, folk/pop I played in the UK before moving to France, they were ideal. Once in the context of a non-mic'ed French variety band, they couldn't take the punishment. They were replaced by Païste 2002's; I now play mostly Sabian AXX (a much more modern-sounding repertoire...), but bought a pair of re-issue 602 hats for recording. I've learned my lesson; I don't 'play out' with those. The 2002's are fine for 'live' work. A pair of original 602 hats, in good condition, are now like hen's teeth. The re-issues are, however, splendid (but still not cheap..!). Who'd be a drummer, eh..?

There's no substitute, unlike basses, where modern techniques have made excellent 'budget' models available. Good cymbals are not cheap at all, and inexpensive ones really hurt the ears, once spoiled for the good'uns..!

The necks on my guitars and basses are stable enough to not change when changing strings. There's something to be said for having enough good wood in the neck's construction to hold the set-up, once done. Just sayin'.

And the winner is... @lurksalot ..! Here, then, is your Winner's Certificate (download and save as pdf file, then proudly print and frame...) ... xx.pdf ... which looks like this (but bigger, of course..!)...

I think you're thinking of the ...

Time to change houses, then.

Very wise of you. ...

Yes. Slow it down to half-speed (or less, if need be...), and learn to play it at that speed, following either the notes on the stave, the TAB or the audio, depending on the medium used. Once you're really comfortable at that tempo (and not before...), increase by a bit (50% becomes 60%, for instance...) and get it down 'pat' again. Increase again, and repeat until 110% is reached. You should by then be perfectly at ease playing it at tempo. Hope this helps; it's a good bass line to learn, and so well worth the work put in, which will serve for many more tunes. Good luck with it.

If the video camera doesn't have any audio track, then a visual clue would be needed, which is, indeed, the role of the clap-board used in studios. Any equivalent could serve the same purpose, but would have to be both visually remarkable and unmistakeable on the (separate...) audio track. Just clicking one's fingers won't 'cut it'. A simple 'clap-stick' would be ideal; a pair of squared-off wood sticks (15x2x1 cms) hinged at one end must be easy enough to cobble up. Have 'em nicely in the field of camera vision, snap 'em together and drop 'em to the floor, then start playing. Remove the clap while editing: job done..!

Well, you did mention that you hadn't thought of a 'clap'; that certainly helps..! I record in Reaper, and process video with Shotcut, but I think they'll pretty much all much of a muchness at our amateur level. It can all be done in Reaper, but I'm used to my method now, and Shotcut (and others...) allow several video and audio tracks, plus titling et al. So I pop the video into Shotcut (with its audio...), add the audio track recorded with Reaper and line up the Reaper track to the video's audio. Takes all of thirty seconds if there's a drum beat in there somewhere, or a starting 'clap'..! I then mute or delete the video audio; done..! Any good..?