Dad3353

Don't despair, it's real alright; it's just mechanical instead of living, breathing. Think of the up-side. No dung to clear out.

Aren't they always..?

Unfortunately, this, from 'Guff'... "This photo that circulated of a particularly happy elephant is actually a mechanical elephant from Disneyland's Jungle Cruise ride...."

In effect, then, Ulster becomes, for GB import/export purposes, part of Eire.

And the winner is... Skank Del Var ..! Here, then, is your Winner's Certificate (download and save as pdf file, then proudly print and frame...) ... BC_Chal_Cert_2020_12.pdf ... which looks like this (but bigger, of course..!)...

I'm not absolutely sure, but I believe that the sole difference is in the name. The term 'Mk IV' has made way for the term '4G' (as in Fourth Generation...), like 'phones and other stuff. I've not seen any mention of any other difference. The '4G' is just marketing; the items are the same as the Mk IV.

Good evening, F4S, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Indeed; I've Schubert anecdotes on this very subject. If it can't reproduce the 'live' session, then it's not 'hi-fi'.

Good afternoon, DUW , and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

I think the immunity only kicks in after a few weeks, if I've understood correctly, so it may be prudent to hold off for a little longer, perhaps..?

Both exist (ReaSamplomatic5000 and ReaSynDr...), but neither would be useful for drum tracks, really, especially for a beginner in this field. They surely have their uses, but the DR550 would be far more useful..!

Here's the manual, en pdf , to download... Magic_Q.pdf Chapter 3.2 deals with the Test procedure (page 19 of the document, page 54 of the pdf file...). In short, you affect the Magic sliders to a DMX channel each (it matters not what fixture in your case; I'd recommend twenty PAR cans...). That will make each slider correspond to the equivalent channels of the bar (I'm assuming it's connected and switched on, right..?). Channel 1 (Slider 1...) affects the way the bar is to work, and should be at zero for manual operation. Channel 2 is the overall brightness; I'd set that to about half at first. Channel 3 is for strobe speed; leave it at zero for now. Channel 4, 7, 10 and 13 set the Red brilliance for each set of Red LEDs; Channels 5 etc... and 6 etc... do the same for the Green and Blue LEDs. Get those working first and you'll be on to a Good Start. Don't panic, and go in little steps. If there's a display on the bar, it should, I think, show 'Colo' if it's in 'Manual' mode. Any help..?

A bit too ambiguous for me, I'm afraid. Will you be wanting to use the wireless footswitch to control the bar, or Magic-Q through DMX..? The set-up is different, depending on the answer.

Oh, OK then. I wouldn't know where to fix a brass plate, anyway.

But... But... But... That would be cheating..!

No experience with this combination, but a Party Bar is not the most complex fixture to set up. I presume you have the DMX doc for it (if not, download it...), and the doc for the software..? You can test out a fixture using the Technicien Test Fixture mode (Page 19...). That should enable you to sort out what DMX affectation you need. Do you just need to set 'auto' lights, or control all colours and dimmers..?

Good evening, V1, and ... Plenty to read and amuse you here, and lots to learn and share.

Hoping it's going to be a long time gone.

Didn't work for me; my favourite was (and still is...) Schubert's 9th Symphony.

We'll know more once a few instruments have crossed the Channel. I can wait.