darkandrew

Ernie Ball USA confirmed that they fit shims on some of their basses at the factory where necessary and reassured me that they've never had any problems. So, I bought a set of shims from their online UK store - they are available in three thicknesses, from approx 0.2 mm to 0.5 mm and cost less than a pound each so I bought one of each. The shims arrived yesterday morning, a day after ordering them. The link below is to a picture I found online of one of the EBMM shims in use - the picture's not mine but the shims that arrived are identical to the one shown: http://s6.photobucket.com/user/franlubas/media/Y2Dneckshim.jpg.html The material is some sort if semi-rigid plastic (PE?). I first chose to try the thinnest of the three shims but didn't really get the lift that I needed, so I then tried the middle of the three. With this installed I was able to set the bass up to spec with 0.4mm relief at the 8th fret and an action of 2.5 mm on the E string when measured at the 15th fret. Similarly, I was also able to achieve correct intonation across all four strings. So, all good. ☺

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1472235909' post='3119754'] I had a similar problem with my Cort Curbow 5 (bought secondhand via eBay) where both the G and the low B were causing problems because I couldn't get them low enough. The saddles are of a cast design, which could have been filed for a deeper groove, but for me it was easier to raise the whole neck with a shim. [/quote] Did you use a full pocket shim or just shim one end?

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1472232086' post='3119716'] @darkandrew - if everything else about the current setup works for you then I'd be inclined to go for a full neck pocket shim. [/quote] With the truss rod set so that the neck is flat, the straight line across the frets just skims across the top of the pickup and meets the bridge halfway up the saddle when put at its lowest position. To align this with the top of the saddle using a straight, full pocket shim would take a shim of about 2mm thickness, whereas as tapered or partial shim would only need about 0.5mm to acheive enough leverage to reach the top of saddle. So it's quite tempting to shim just one end but, like I said I've been put off by the scare stories of ski-jump necks.

I know it's already been discussed, in a previous thread,that a partial shim across the last screws can lead to the neck bowing due to the part of the neck that's above the void in front of the shim being pulled into it and creating a ski jump at the end of the neck. I've been thinking about this - is this actually likely as it's not just the neck that would have to bow but also the truss rod that's going through it? I ask this because I've just taken ownership of an Ernie Ball Sterling bass whose E string saddle is as low as it can go but needs to go a bit lower, and so I was thinking about putting a shim in the neck pocket and was wondering whether to use the Ernie Ball partial shim or make my own full pocket shim out of maple veneer.

Won't the previously oiled finish prevent the dye from being drawn into the wood? I would have thought that it would be very difficult to remove all traces of the old oiled finish?

I have a mix of 34 and 35 inch scale basses - I find that I unconsciously compensate by positioning the body of the 35 inch Euro 5LX further away from my fretting hand and playng the strings slightly further up from the bridge end than I do with my 34 inch basses.

Some interesting replies here ... I've always assumed that most manufacturer branded strings are repackaged versions of other strings, whether this is true or not I don't know. The reason I asked the original question was because I was in the process of buying a EBMM Sterling and the previous owner had said that he had just strung it with a new set of EB Slinkies. Usually, the first thing I do when I get a new bass is to throw a set of DR Black Beauties or Silver Stars on it (depending on the colour) but I thought that this time I'd give the original strings a chance.

My Warwick and Spector now have a new friend to play with as I've just picked up my new (well, new to me) USA Sterling - black body, black pick-guard with maple fret-board (see previous owner's pic below). Initial impressions are good - I really like the tone (all 3 positions are very useful and very different from my existing basses) and I can't believe how narrow the neck is at the nut.

[quote name='Paulhauser' timestamp='1471958340' post='3117248'] I use Spector Euro5's as my main isntruments and had SR5's for a while. I personally found that the Euro5's can do everything that the SR5's do (for me, anyway) and ther Euro5's offer more tonal variety, more suitable ergonomics and neck and the B string is more to my liking. (35") Being used to Spector ergonomics I found the neck and the body size on the SR5 a bit less comfortable. Also I like the tighter stringspacing on the Spector more. Still, Stingrays have a signature sound and if that's what one wants then the only thing to do is to get a Stingray. I think getting your question answered is pretty easy as used SR5's are quite easy to get and also not a hassle to pass on without much loss if it turns out not to be your liking. [/quote] I'm with you on the Spector Euro 5LX - that's staying as my one and only 5 string. I've tried other 5 stringers and never found another that comes close, in fact I gave up playing bass for a while after buying a Yamaha 5 string - it was that bad! The purpose of the Music Man (and I'm 99.9% sure it's going to be a USA Sterling) will be to add more variety and not replace my Euro or SS1.

If you have a Music Man, do you use Ernie Ball strings? If you have a Fender, do you use Fender strings? If you have a Warwick, do you use Warwick strings? ETC and if so do you find that the strings better suit the bass when they are from the same manufacturer?

I've just stumbled across this clip of Tim Muddiman (Gary Numan / PWEI - here with Gary Numan) playing what looks like an EBMM Sterling - would you say that this tone is typical of what the Sterling sounds like? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5CwpDLFGHk

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1471899785' post='3116869'] Which one is the full fat? [/quote] I guess that's the 'ray. The trouble is though, I just don't get along with chunky necks.

[quote name='mcnach' timestamp='1471853004' post='3116276'] This man often has the correct ideas, and this is no exception A big difference between the Stingray and the Sterling, apart from the smaller body, is that the Sterling also has a thinner neck, more 'jazz-like'. That's a deal breaker for me, as I don't like those necks. Just something else to consider, apart from the sound. I love the Stingray, for sound and feel. It's the bass I use 90% of the time, or more. It's a one-pickup bass, but hugely versatile. The USA made SUB range, made between 2003 and 2006 is very interesting not only because of the 'marmite' finishes and the much lower price despite being essentially full blooded Stingrays, but because the early ones appeared to have the pickup wired in series as opposed to the usual parallel configuration. This makes them meatier and punchier than a standard Stingray, and complements the 2-band EQ on those basses really well. I have both a 2002 Stingray and a 2003 SUB (series), and they're both slightly different amazing beasts... just to add another factor to the pot [/quote] Thanks for your advice. I actually prefer thinner necks (not having gorilla hands!) and the thought of a Stingray type bass with a smaller body and thinner neck really appeals to me. How does the US made Sterling's sound compare to a full-fat US Stingray? My understanding is that in addition to the size differences, the Sterling also has a ceramic magnet with 3-way pickup switching (similar to the Stingray 5) and a different pre-amp.

[quote name='mep' timestamp='1471806785' post='3116049'] I also have a Sterling Sub. It looks and feels great with that jazz neck. As it's much cheaper than the Ray it doesn't sound the same but is still good value. [/quote] I was thinking about a US made Music Man Sterling rather than a bass in the Indonesian made Sterling by Music Man range? EB's naming of the different models and ranges is really confusing!

I pretty much stick with DR coated strings now - they don't have the metalic "zing" of standard round wounds but retain their clarity and have a nice percussive punch without being boomy.

Recently I have been having GAS for a Stingray type bass. I already have a Spector Euro 5LX and a Warwick Custom Shop Streamer Stage 1 (4 string) but the only MM equipped bass I have is an old Aria Integra/IGB that hardly sees the light of day. The old Aria plays quite nicely actually, has a "Duncan Designed" MM in the usual MM position and a "Duncan Designed" J in the neck position. It has a three band active EQ, a solid ash body, maple bolt-on neck and rosewood fret board. Now my question is quite simply this - do I need a Stingray/Sterling? My Spector is meaty and full bodied with two EMG "DC" pickups and the SS1 is more subtle with EMGs in a PJ configuration. I was thinking of going for a Sterling as both the Spector and SS1 are quite small bodied and this is what I am now used to but am wondering what the Sterling will offer me that my Spector, Warwick (and even Aria) won't?

All my guitars have them (I've got a Nail Bomb set, Rebel Yell bridge / VH2 neck, a Mule set and a Crawler set). Although I've never tried their bass pickups, my experience of their guitar pickups, and dealing with them as a company, leaves me confident that their bass pickups will be something special.

I've just spent about an hour, scouring the internet but I can't find anything other than album credits as a whole - not individual tracks.

The description says it has an "active pickup" - that's not right is it? I thought they came with a passive ceramic pickup and active EQ. Also ... why do people insist on wearing a belt with a big buckle when play guitar or bass? Or if they need to wear a belt, why don't they cover the buckle with their T-Shirt, shirt etc?

Mrs Darkandrew tolerates it but that's about it.

A lot of these covers appear to be "victims" of their time and changes in attitude. I wonder which covers of today will be looked on with shock and horror in 30 or 40 years time?

[quote name='tauzero' timestamp='1471345381' post='3112274'] Waterfront by Simple Minds. [/quote] Derek Forbes also did a similar one note bassline for P Machinery by Propaganda which he later referred to as one of his favourite basslines in an interview for some dodgy website: http://basschat.co.uk/topic/94210-basschat-derek-forbes-interview/