obbm

It is almost 5-years since I had a Status neck put on my Stingray 5. Other basses have come and gone but nothing touches it. It's still my bass of choice. Sounds great and supremely comfortable to play. I've never had to touch the truss rod and it stays in tune regardless of the temperature.

Actually the V-type is almost the same as the Alembic F1X. The F2B is a much simpler circuit because there were two pre-amps in the same 1U frame. The BBE BMAX-T is also the same as the F1X, but with a few extras.

[quote name='BassKS' post='536511' date='Jul 9 2009, 03:08 PM']You dont have a John East lying around now do you? :-).[/quote] Only the one in the Sub 5 I have for sale at the moment.

[quote name='BassKS' post='536481' date='Jul 9 2009, 02:36 PM']Yep. It sounds like were all on the same boat with the Nordies. Im off to San Fran next week and I may order it from Bestbassgear. DOnt know whether its more important to change the pre first or the Pup. Cannot afford both of them.[/quote] In the SR5 I've had an OBP3 (which it came with), a John East and finally a stock EBMM SR5 pre, which I quite like.

[quote name='Spartacus' post='536465' date='Jul 9 2009, 02:09 PM']Lots of people on their forum have been shot down by Sterling Ball for installing things like diiferent preamps pickups and Status necks.[/quote] Yup. That's why I, for one, rarely go there any more. I have a Stingray 5 which now has a Nordstrand in it. Of all the pick-ups I've tried (MM, SD, Bart, Nord) it is by far and away the cleanest and clearest.

ideally you should terminate the amp input with a short circuit and then see what noise/hum is generated by the amp itself. If it's different when you plug different basses in then the extra is coming from the basses/cables. The amp is just making that noise louder. A pick-up coil is a very efficient aerial and will attract all sorts of interference. Check your doemstic environment for noise sources such as motors, lighting dimmers, fluorescent tubes, etc. try taking it to the bottom of the garden ad see what happens.

An unterminated instrument lead, i.e. no bass, acts like an aerial and will just pick-up noise and amplify it. That is not a realistic test. Either put a bass on the end or short circuit the connector.

[quote name='phil_the_bassist' post='535377' date='Jul 8 2009, 08:24 AM']so which bit/where abouts is the op-amp? I've googled it and i was merely informed it was a basic preamp...does this mean its the first stage of the EBMM pre?[/quote] This is the stock SR5 pre-amp. It uses a 4-way op-amp. The first two stages provide a form balanced input for series and single coil modes. This is the way they eliminate any extraneous noise and hum. In parallel mode they just use a single input. If you follow the circuit through then you will see. The two other stages are the eq control. The whole lot, including the pots are mounted on the single PCB with flying leads to the 4-pole switch. If you wanted to use a different pre-amp and retain coil switching then you would need to trace out and build a copy of the input stages of the MM pre-amp. then connect that to your pre-amp of choice. [quote name='phil_the_bassist' post='535377' date='Jul 8 2009, 08:24 AM']Will this only be a concern if I don't change both the pickup and preamp?[/quote] Not really as all the replacement pick-ups for SR5s are wired to allow direct connection into the stock SR5 pre-amp. If you did away with coil switching and hard wired in parallel or serial then you could just drop in any pre-amp. I used an Aguillar OBP3 in mine for a while but it was just wired in parallel mode. I waited 4-years for an MM SR5 pre-amp to come up on Ebay. I strongly recommentd that you send it back to EBMM and get it fixed. Even if you don't use it, it will have a good resale value. Alternatively you could give it to me. If you want to play around then why not buy my Sub 5. It would give you hours of amusement I'm sure.

I've looked into all aspects of SR5 pre-amps including what you are suggesting. Just to repeat what I've said many times before, the coil switching function is an integral part of the EBMM pre-amp and uses the first two stages of the op-amp. Take away the EBMM and install something else and you'll have to decide which of the three selections you want to hard-wire. The alternative is to replicate the EBMM circuitry on a new PCB and interpose it between the pick-up and the new pre-amp. By rewiring and reconfiguring the pick-up from 5 to 6 wires and completely rewiring the selector switch you can do it but then you lose the switched gain adjustment that compensates for different levels when coil switching. I know I've been there and done it. Tread carefully.

Welcome. Which bit of Texas are ye from?

[quote name='attackbass' post='529796' date='Jul 1 2009, 05:33 PM']ive seen this but i cant find the caps they have there anywhere? any ideas thanks tho![/quote] Sometimes you might still find those old value ceramic disc capacitors however the closest modern equivalents are 0.047uF and 0.033uF. The difference in values will have a minimal effect. You can get 0.047 and 0.033 Sprague Orange Drop caps from Watford Valves.

Does [url="http://www.fender.com/support/diagrams/pdf_temp1/basses/0190209C/SD0190209CPg2.pdf"]this[/url] help?