obbm

[quote name='icastle' post='1246060' date='May 26 2011, 06:59 PM']True up to a point, but the impedance switch on the back selects a different set of output transformer taps. Using the wrong setting won't do your amp a lot of good...[/quote] Careful. Terror Bass is a Class D solid state amp with no output transformer. According to the block diagram the switch controls a limiter which drives the Class D output modules. As far as the OP goes, I'm not sure I follow the reasoning behind the question. If you have an 8-ohm cab then switch to 8-ohms. If it's too loud then turn it down.

Ian, I have an A5 fretless which you are welcome to come and try.

[quote name='Salt on your Bass?' post='1244443' date='May 25 2011, 04:22 PM']Wasnt the 'superstore' thing effectively what Sound Control aimed at/provided before going into receivership??[/quote] Precisely.

[quote name='dc2009' post='1244407' date='May 25 2011, 03:51 PM']True I don't know what it is costing them, but when the markup from a local store is sufficient to make you realise that another, larger UK based store, e.g. GAK will do it for significantly less, you know their markup is more than that of GAKs, or that it costs less for it to get to GAK, which either way makes it cheaper for you buy from GAK than the local store, regardless of where the difference is made up. EDIT: in that example I wasn't talking necessarily about US products, I just meant any product, let's take an Ibanez or a Dean as an example, on sale in a large UK store (e.g. GAK, dv247 among others) or my local music shop, typically the large retailer will sell it at a lot less.[/quote] Quite right, GAK etc., because of their volume of sales are able to buy cheaper AND sell at a lower margin as they have a very diverse product range and much bigger turnover with which to cover their costs and return a profit. Exactly the same argument applies to supermarkets v local corner shops. We don't have many of the latter any more and the same will happen to the local music shop if no-one buys anything from them. Want to get rich quick? Get an industrial unit in a deproved area, stack it with equipment, sell it cheap on line, employ monkeys and pay peanuts. Someone tried in Liverpool and failed. Someone else tried to be the UK's equivalent of GC and failed. However they have one in Germany and it's still in business. Where do the Brits go wrong?

[quote name='dc2009' post='1244312' date='May 25 2011, 02:45 PM']True. But then music is a hobby, and guitar/bass shops are nothing more than specialist hobby shops, albeit quite popular ones, I wouldn't expect them to rake in a fortune. I appreciate they have to markup on anything they sell, but I do often wish there were fewer stores (with more of a monopoly) that could get away with charging less of a markup, because they sold that much more. Too many guitar stores I've been to are tiny affairs in an average sized town, where they have very few basses in, and the markup on any you might want is so huge, because the guy has to make his living off the one instrument he sells each week, that you know you can get it online or S/H for a lot less and don't buy it at all.[/quote] Sorry but you have no idea what the mark-up is because you don't know what it is costing them. If you are comparing with the US price then this is an unfair comparision. I will reiterate what I said before, in the UK most US products are handled by an importer who forecasts, orders and buys from the manufacturer and resells to the store, so there are 2 sets of mark-up being applied. Fender have Fender UK. The profit they make keeps Fender UK in business. In the case of Musicman it's Strings and Things who do just the same. They have to provide local warranty, etc which all cost money. The exception are small, low volume US manufacturers who deal directly with UK sellers such as Bass Direct and Bass Gear.

[quote name='casapete' post='1241932' date='May 23 2011, 05:43 PM']Bruce Springsteen - the chance to play in one of the best bands in the world, and alongside the great Max Weinberg too would be amazing. Stones too - great songs / band etc. Could probably do that dep without a run through...[/quote] +1 on these two plus John Fogerty Steve Earle and the Dukes

[quote name='gary mac' post='1243814' date='May 25 2011, 07:56 AM']Clarky are you trying to upset all the purists on here? Wait for the slightly angry post, telling you that it is NOT called a kettle lead. [/quote] All right! It's not a KETTLE lead.

[quote name='Higgie' post='1243739' date='May 25 2011, 12:45 AM']I managed to snag my mint condition unlined fretless Stingray, from the year of my birth (1989) with a hardcase from the States for £685 all in. Bargain.[/quote] Nice deal but the OP was referring to brand new items, not used. There will always be used bargains to be had.

[quote name='dc2009' post='1243225' date='May 24 2011, 06:27 PM']So just been looking at Tech 21 Sansamp RBI's, new, via the tech 21 site, you are greeted with a list price of $329, not bad I thought, so I checked the UK prices. The cheapest being £335 at DV247, and it was £399 at GAK, which is strange as they're normally some of the best for price. I was understandably a bit hacked off at this obscene price difference, is there really a decent reason for it? I'm seriously considering importing one of the US ones, because I think it would be cheaper to do so. I remember similarly, with my Dean (Edge q4 Bartolini) which I bought through a US music shop's ebay store (new). They shipped it in an indestructible Gator Hard/Soft case which they threw in for nothing, and including import tax, the thing got to my door for just under £400, the price for the UK, given by Dean's distributors here (Bill Lewington IIRC) for the exact same model was £500, and many shops had it on sale at more than that. So why do we get ripped off here, and has anyone else got any success stories of beating it by importing directly from outside the UK? Dan[/quote] No you are not getting ripped-off, welcome to the world of commerce. Being a USA based company Tech 21 are able to sell directly to their dealer network. In other countries they sell to an importer who has to pay shipping, duty and tax on the product and then resells it on to the dealers, making a profit in the process to cover his cost of inventory, warranty, technical support, advertising, etc. It works just the same the other way with US importers making a profit on UK made product, before selling them on to the stores. This is a reason why, if the market is large enough, some manufacturers choose to make products locally. Even if items are made in China and imported directly someone has to coordinate ordering and local distribution. It costs to run a company. To stop people like you and me trying to circumvent the local support organisation, many US Dealer Agreements forbid the sale of product overseas. Some years ago I successfully bought and imported a brand new MM Bongo 5 from a US dealer, however they were unable to offer any warranty. It arrived with a dead pick-up which wasquite a problem to resolve. If I had bought it locally I could have thrown it straight back at the importer to be fixed.

[quote name='Big_Stu' post='1242149' date='May 23 2011, 07:56 PM']"Looping"?, so it's a circuit within itself, as though you were wiring them as you would in one cab? *sigh* it was so much easier in my day [/quote] Looped inputs is a term used in electronics where an input has 2 sockets, passively conected that allows a signal to loop out and onto another piece of equipment. Most speaker cabs have this. When you connect the 2 cabs together you are putting both sets of speakers in parallel.

[quote name='Big_Stu' post='1242115' date='May 23 2011, 07:34 PM']Not contradicting this; I just want to be clear for future reference, I would have thought that daisychaining two 8ohm cabs one into the other would have made them in series & therefore make 16ohms, or do those daisychaining jack sockets make it "see" them as parallel?[/quote] When looping from one cab to another you are putting them in parallel, so 2 x 8-ohm cabs will make a 4-ohm load. To put two cabs in series, and hence sum their impedances, a special cable is required.

[quote name='flyfisher' post='1241943' date='May 23 2011, 05:51 PM']Where's the mismatch? Speaker impedances are only nominal so what's the problem with connecting a combination of speakers totalling 4.8 ohms into a 4 ohm output?[/quote] I know that. Your method just seems a rather cack-handed way of getting there. Each to their own I suppose.

[quote name='flyfisher' post='1241926' date='May 23 2011, 05:33 PM']Or, for more power output, connect an 8 ohm cab and the 4 ohm cab in series, giving 12 ohms, then run these two in parallel with the other 8 ohm cab, giving an overall load to the amp of 4.8 ohms. It won't harm the amp but I doubt it's worth faffing around with the cabling.[/quote] Why would you deliberately wnat to create a miss-match?

From Adrian Emsley - Tecnical Director at Orange Music Electronic Ltd - 24 April 2008 in answe to my question. It confirms what has been previously said. 1 x 8 ohm cab = 8 ohm socket 2 x 8 ohm cabs = both 4 ohm sockets 1 x 4 ohm cab = either 4 ohm socket Regarding the original post Run the 2 x 8-ohm cabs in parallel Put these in series with the 4-ohm cab to make 8-ohms. Run the lot from the 8-ohm output.

I bought a cab from Ebay and the seller turned out to be Harry. Very good comms, fast shipment, well packed and the cab was in pristine condition. Thanks Harry.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1241342' date='May 23 2011, 11:23 AM']For those that can't get the Mag. What did it say??[/quote] It's about the narrowmindedness and negativity of many of the bass players who have been interviewed in the last 3 issues.

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1241339' date='May 23 2011, 11:20 AM']There you go, Dave, sorted ... [attachment=80690:Conchord.jpg] [/quote] That takes me back, my first ever bass amp. circa 1963. I've got its bigger brother, a Linear 50 in the garage which I plan to restore but the chassis got slightly bent during shipping so I'm going to have to strip it right down and get it repainted before I can rebuild it. It all takes time. Thanks to all for the suggestions but I think a lot of you have missed the original point. I have an excellent Orange AD200B which suits me well for larger gigs when paired with an Epifani T212-UL. I don't need another high-power amp. What I am looking for is something smaller in size and power to go with a pair of 12-inch cabs for small lower volume gigs. The Liittle Bastard ticks all the boxes, but so does the Vox Night Train NH-50H. The latter is a guitar amp but could possibly make a good 50-watt bass amp. After all AC50s were used for both. It has some interesting features such as 2-channels and a Fender Tone stack that can be bypassed to give a flat response. Also the tone stack could be easily revoiced for bass. I'm going to have to try one before making a decision. Has anyone who works in a music shop tried one with a bass?

[quote name='algmusic' post='1241328' date='May 23 2011, 11:11 AM']I know you said you tried the Terror, but if you still have it, change the valves, It worked a treat for me.. happy jack did a thread on it [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=134869"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=134869[/url][/quote] Sold it to Sibob last summer.

about the narrow-mindedness of pro-bass players in recent issues. Issue 67, June 2011, Page 89. If you are among us Mr Livermore, congratulations, well said.

[quote name='eude' post='1237827' date='May 20 2011, 10:13 AM']Or maybe try out some Guitar Valve jobbies. The smoothest recorded bass sound I ever got was using a 90s all valve 15W 10" Laney combo mic'd up, albeit blended with a bit of DI for a bit more weight as the speaker was a little lacking. Eude[/quote] LOL. This is where this thread started by asking if anyone had ever tired the new 50-watt VOX guitar head with a bass.

[quote name='walbassist' post='1237818' date='May 20 2011, 10:03 AM']Wouldn't it be great to have on the market a small all-valve head that was 100-150 watts. I guess another possibility is a really nice valve pre with a power amp? Trace Elliot Twin Valve is a good call, but they are pretty heavy IIRC? Cheers Gareth[/quote] The problem with allthe older generation of valve heads is that they were designed to sit on top of 4x12 cabinets and so are very wide, which in turn makes them difficult to carry if you are small like me. A smaller overall size but the same weight is not a problem as long as the hanle is in the right place. Marshall made an 18W small box head which is an ideal size. Even my SC 50PA cab is an acceptible size, so when I say small-ish, I don't mean tiny. For use with the modern generation of bass speakers and look proportionally correct a cab should not be wider than say 17-inches.

[quote name='eude' post='1237773' date='May 20 2011, 09:25 AM']I think a second hand Trace Twin Valve would fit the bill nicely though if you can find one. I still think the EBS is stupidly overpriced, god knows who'll actually buy one, for less money you could get an Ashdown Little Bastard and an OK PA System! Eude[/quote] I've had a good look at the circuit of the Twin Valve and unfortunately all the EQ is all solid state. It's full of transistors and op-amps. I have a feeling I'm going to be looking for an Ashdown.

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' post='1236782' date='May 19 2011, 11:29 AM']You're more than welcome to try my Little Mark Tube 800 Dave. I'm not sure it's exactly what you're looking for but it's an excuse to have a play anyway [/quote] Thanks for the offer Nick. I've had a very on/off relationship with Markbass, more off than on, which is why I ended up selling the F1. That said it would certainly be interesting to try the 800 one day.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1236783' date='May 19 2011, 11:30 AM']Then again, there isnt anything like a full tube amp.[/quote] There, you said it. My sole bassic-bits endorsee, Paul Geary, has just got an endorsement deal with Orange and he told me that the AD200B is the best amp he's ever used. Interesting comment.