obbm

ACG (Note to self - must take a better picture as it doesn't do the ebony top justice)

I'm not in a regular band these days but I still have 9 bass instruments, one of which I might sell. I do however play regularly at the local Jams. and am available to dep for one local band.

[quote name='fryer' post='1126359' date='Feb 13 2011, 08:09 PM']You say that ' The problem has nothing to do with maximum power handling capability '. But why not, 'cos if I put 700 watts out of the Firebass, surely the Epi would handle this, but the Peavey wouldn't ?? Sorry but I don't see why it isn't a problem.[/quote] What Alex said plus You are very unlikely, unless you are playing Wembley, to ever run the whole rig flat out and be able to stand in front of it.

[quote name='icastle' post='1126022' date='Feb 13 2011, 03:10 PM']It's not line level. EDIT: 'Low Output' in this case is related to the inbuilt crossover, not signal levels.[/quote] Read the spec and look at the block diagram. The High and Low Outputs from the crossover are 0dBV, which is line level. The only speaker outputs are the two jacks on the back panel marked "Outputs Speaker Jack Parallelled".

[quote name='icastle' post='1125868' date='Feb 13 2011, 12:35 PM']Forget trying to find 450W resistors and putting signals 'back into the power amp section' and so forth, this is just a rather unclear user manual. All you need to do is take a speaker lead from the Low Output socket, feed that into one cab and then daisy chain from that cab to the next one. Doesn't matter which way round you put them - one way round will sound different to the other, just pick the sound you prefer. On the front of the amp you have 'FREQ' and 'BALANCE' controls. Stick the 'FREQ' control to about halfway as a starting off point (you can tweak that later if you don't like the sound). Stick the 'BALANCE' control all the way round to the LF end.[/quote] Why would you want to send line-level to a speaker cabinet? It'll be very quiet. As for the original post I would imagine that the single Epi 4x10 will more than loud enough on its own. The problem has nothing to do with maximum power handling capability, it will be if the 2 cabs have different sensitivities i.e. dBs per watt. If it's all about image then stand the Epi on the top of the Peavey but don't connect it. By using two unmatched cabs on the single amp there will be no way to balance the perceived sound level. If you are intent on using these two very different cabs then you need a head with two separately adjustable power amp stages, or a rack pre-amp and stereo power amp or just get a separate power amp to drive the second cabinet and hang it onto the Firebass.

All this talk of preEBs has made me get mine out and play it. Mmmmm nice. I know what I'm taking to the Jam on Monday.

When I had a BBE BMAX-T pre-amp I changed to a 5751 in order to try and reduce the gain problems that I was having with active basses. Eventually the factory brought out a mod but I kept the 5751 as it sounded so much better than the supplied 12AX7. I then acquired an Alembic F1X and very swiftly swapped out the origninal valve for a 5751, and that was how it stayed through many gigs until I sold it. It was very deep and smooth. I also tried a pair of 5751s in an Orange Terror Bass but it didn't make so much difference, so I kept the valves and sold the amp. One day I'll try them in the AD200B and see what happens. They are currently installed in Electro Harmonix English Muffn which has a revoiced EQ. Although the 5751s have more gain than the stock 12AY7s I think it sounds better. I have some future valve projects and the 5751s will definitely figure in those.

I suppose I should post this here now it's all finished.

Yup. Had a Retro in a DJ4 and a DJ5. Exxxxxxcellent.

[quote name='gary mac' post='1112523' date='Feb 2 2011, 03:15 PM']Nice bass OBBM, that's a beaut. Looks very classy. What works have you done to it? Hope that's not a stupid question, but I'm not very up on Laklands. Love the look of it though.[/quote] Thanks. It started life as a simple Duck Dunn (P body, J-neck) with white pickguard. J bridge pick-up routing done by the Gallery Lindy Fralin split-coil J pick-up to match the Fralin P obtained from USA Stack-knob CTS pots modified. Hipshot D-Tuner Black pick-guard

Lakland Duck Dunn - modifications complete

Thanks to Rasta I have finally finished the transformation of my Duck Dunn.

Can I suggest an Epifani UL310. Great speaker cab.

+1 on Lindy Fralins.

Years ago I explored this avenue and drew a blank however I do remember reading that a Bassworld member used a 2U rack tray upside down. He drilled 4 holes in the tray to pick-up on the captive nuts in the amp chassis where the sleeve screws normally go. Hope this helps.

[quote name='jbarks' post='1104651' date='Jan 27 2011, 01:09 AM']Used a line/instrument cable with an SVT-3 Pro for the longest time when I had to cannibalise some rack equipment—no problems there. Almost every sound engineer I've spoken to (and the guy who recorded my album, who has some pretty high end stuff in his studio) all said it was fine and that no, my amp wouldn't explode.[/quote] Just because you/they do it doesn't mean that its correct or advisable. I asked Klotz about using instrument cable for speakers and their technical guru told me: "The power loss with conductor cross-section of 0.22 sq mm (centre core of typical instrument cable) is dramatically high and even may result in a cable fire". "Also the reduced damping factor of the system results in worse properties of sound." "Furthermore twisted speaker cores have better EMC and lower EMI."

Put 10-amps down an instrument cable and it will melt. If you don't believe me try running your electric kettle on an instrument cable and watch it melt. Lord Valve recommends 12-gauge cable. 12-gauge is the closest american equivalent to 4-sq.mm. SAFETY WARNING - DO NOT USE YOUR INSTRUMENT CABLE TO POWER A KETTLE.

[quote name='markstuk' post='1103500' date='Jan 26 2011, 12:41 PM']I use 2.5mm two core mains cable for my speaker cable (rated at 30A).. It's cheap at about 80p a metre and can cope with modern amp current loads without heating up too much.. OBBM uses 2.5 mm Klotz cable in his speaker cables as well.. Why have a powerful amp and restrict the amount of current it can flow to your cab?[/quote] Correction: I use 4-sq.mm. 224 strand cable for bass amp leads, 2.5-sq.mm. for guitars. The 4-sq.mm. has a very low resistance which keeps the damping factor high and allows tighter control of the speaker driver especially near its resonant frequency. The centre conductor of an instrument cable typically has a cross-sectional area of 0.22-sq.mm. which gives a higher resistance and a lower damping factor.

Bought an Lakland DD pickguard from Lee. Exactly as described, very well packaged and quickly sent. Having recently made him a custom cable it was nice to be able to reciprocate. Top man.

Makes mine look like a wreck.

That is in amazingly good condition. What's the back like?