obbm

Pre-amp valves need no setting-up or adjustment. With the amp switched off and disconnected from the mains, remove cover unplug old valve plug-in new valve replace covers job done Just because it is old and has been used a lot doen't mean it's worn out. These types of valves usually go on for decades.

Paul bought a cable for his new wireless system. Perfect transaction.

That is very nice.

[quote name='thebassman' post='768299' date='Mar 8 2010, 06:20 PM']I see they do the muting connectors. Does anyone know if they work with stingray 5 basses. The neutrik site says they do not work with some active bass guitars.[/quote] Works fine with my SR5. Just a slight click as the pre-amp is energised. I suppose with a big rig that might be a loud click. Never had the chance to try it though.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='767060' date='Mar 7 2010, 05:15 PM']Shouldn't that be impedance then, since you are specifying frequencies?[/quote] Theoretically it should be but because the inductive and capacitive components are minimal, it is the resistive component that has the major influence.. There is an interesting paper on speaker cables [url="http://procosound.com/downloads/whitepapers/Understanding%20Speaker%20Cables.pdf"]here[/url]

My thoughts on the matter: [quote]In order to get the best performance from a solid-state bass amp/speaker set-up you need to have a high damping factor. A low damping factor will give a woolly sound whereas a high damping factor gives tighter control of the driver and will give much clearer low frequencies. This is especially important at frequencies around the driver’s resonant frequency, which for a bass is usually in the order of 40 – 45 Hz, well within the usable frequency range of a bass. The resistance of the speaker cable directly affects the damping factor and needs to be as low as possible. Heavier gauge cables have a much lower resistance and therefore help to achieve this. They are also more than capable of handling the high transients produced by a bass amplifier. The problem is not so prevalent with guitar amps as the resonant frequency of many speakers is below the guitar’s frequency range. That being said it is still important to use a good quality, low resistance cable and not an instrument cable as the there are still significant voltage and current transients.[/quote]

[quote name='freelancesam' post='766555' date='Mar 6 2010, 11:48 PM']if i bought one of these [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEAVEY-SPEAKON-TO-JACK-CABLE-x1_W0QQitemZ130371286248QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Computing_CablesConnectors_RL?hash=item1e5abbf4e8#ht_500wt_1182"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/PEAVEY-SPEAKON-TO-JA...8#ht_500wt_1182[/url] and cut the jack off, would that work?? or am i missing the point? The impedance on the cab says 4 or 8 ohms[/quote] You are switching to bridged mode in order to extract more power. That cable would work however you would undo all that you've done by switching to bridged mode as the additional power would be strangled by that small cross-section cable. If you are trying to extract 800-watts then you need a short high-capacity cable.

[quote name='misrule' post='766335' date='Mar 6 2010, 06:49 PM']+1 -- OBBM does great speaker cables. I've got two. Cheers Mark[/quote] Thanks Mark Badass and I are in communication.

Back in the day, when I were a lad, there were no such things as bass amps, only amps. All the top bands used Marshall stacks so play away and enjoy. As you said just make sure you have appropriate speakers. The only difference is that the EQ controls will be voiced for guitar but that's not really a problem if you like the sound you're getting.

Sheet of MDF and a circular saw?

Alternatively you could consider one of these: I believe that they come with either Speakon or Jack. The WT800 needs an 8-ohm cabinet to work bridged. What is the make of your 4x10 and what is the impedance?

[quote name='Bankai' post='765677' date='Mar 5 2010, 10:20 PM']Ah. So would a US spec rack case be alright?[/quote] I'm can't be certain. It would be best to take your brackets along and try them with any case you are thinking of buying.

[quote name='Bankai' post='765651' date='Mar 5 2010, 09:49 PM']Cheers. So in summary the screws take 2U space but in reality there's a bit of space both above and below the unit.[/quote] Nope. You need 2U space but you will never get the screw holes to line up with the fixings on European spec rack strip. The best solution is to find a case with sliding nuts so you can move them tyo where the holes are.

[quote name='Bankai' post='765615' date='Mar 5 2010, 09:01 PM']Just got a Little Giant with a mind to rack mounting it yet it's not a standard 1 or 2U size.[/quote] Correct. The fixing holes in the brackets are not in the right place either. See page 8 of [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=13645&st=140"]this thread[/url]

Somehow I also missed this one. It's looking good. I became a member of the Shuker P5 club a few months ago when I acquired "Alice", the PJ5 that OHM had made. In fact I'm playing it right now and wondering what it would be like with flats.

Over the past few years I've had 5 different Skylines. The were all good but the DJ4, DJ5 and the current Duck Dunn have all been superb. I cannot fault the build quality or the neck finish. Now I just have the DD and it sounds awesome however it is a tad heavy, perhaps that why it sounds so good.

[quote name='Basser Boy' post='762077' date='Mar 2 2010, 06:42 PM']hmm really a bad idea? I originally got the idea because I know flea uses a OBP-1 in his flea bass (or did). Was there anything in particular you didn't like about the sound of the stingray with the obp3?[/quote] It just lacked the punch of a real SR5, and not enough bass. It kind of sanitized the sound.

When I bought my SR5 it had an OBP3 in it. It just wasn't an SR5 so I now have a real EBMM pre-amp back in there. My advice would be don't do it.

[quote name='Hubster' post='760254' date='Feb 28 2010, 10:38 PM']So whereabouts are you these days?[/quote] SW Surrey. Moved here when I was 11. Moved around a bit during the 60a and 70s then settled back here. It's very conevnient.

Welcome. You're almost a neighbour.

Welcome. I lived my first 10 years in Newquay. It was a small quiet seaside town then but that was about 60 years ago.

[quote name='green' post='759064' date='Feb 27 2010, 01:18 PM']well, there are only 2 music stores with technicians here in my area. one doesn't even sell basses, just pianos. the other one i guess is a bunch of guys making big money but they don't have a clue. i got some really bad advice there before, so i never would give my bass away to them.... that's why i need to find the problem myself. i soldered electronics before. i'm not a pro, but i have some experience nevertheless. i'm just trying to find out what it could be. it really sounds like there is only one coil running. when i hit the bass, all coils come back again. does that mean it's the pickup ? or could it be outside of the pickup ?[/quote] Could be a bad soldered joint. Check both ends of the wires that connect the board to the switch and check the the joints where the 5 pick-up wires are soldered onto the board. Be very careful with the board as the pads that the wires connect to are small and too much heat will lift them.