obbm

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='786030' date='Mar 25 2010, 04:51 PM']There is a 'but' in that the rating is for the amount of power you can be putting into an amp before the voice coil overheats. If could be farting and tearing at a lower power, depending on its excusrion limited power handling, which is specific to frequency, so not as handy to quote.[/quote] Don't you mean "out of an amp into a speaker"? The only power going into an amp is from the AC mains.

You've got it the wrong way round. RMS power is the correct measurement and terminology. The term Peak Music Power or Peak Program Power is used to make you think that you have twice the amount of power you actually have.

Welcome. How about early Morse?

If you want to use an Epifani UL115 with a UL310 you'll need a 2-ohm capable or a dual power amp as the UL115 is 8-ohms but the UL310 is 5.3-ohms.

The U is the measurement in the height of rack equipment in 1 3/4-inch units. 1U = 1 3/4-inches (44.45mm) 2U = 3 1/2-inches (88.9mm) 3U and above can be worked out. The U measurement is an international standard and has its origins in the 1920. Rack cases come in many depths. I use 400mm and 500mm for amps however this is too deep for tuners and compressors, etc which tend to be quite shallow. I have seen Effects cases that are 300mm deep and less.

I'm pretty certain that the JO takes a standard Fender Jazz control plate so if you get the stack-knob version then it should be fine. Mine had a J-Retro which is the normal Fender plate.

[quote name='OutToPlayJazz' post='781763' date='Mar 21 2010, 04:32 PM']I used to just stand there smugly with my graphite neck which rarely if ever goes out of tune! [/quote] +1

I have had a lot of trouble with my ACS T2s. The mouldings are fine however the drivers can't deliver bass at the level I need and just distort. They've been back once and they reckon there is nothing wrong with them so they are relegated to use with the ipod when mowing the lawn. I put a meter on them and they measure 4-ohms which is very low for earphones.

[quote name='OldGit' post='781947' date='Mar 21 2010, 07:06 PM']I think lot of people tune up through nerves when they have no need to.[/quote] Or guilt complex. Something in a song doesn't quite sound right because someone plays a wrong note or a wrong chord. Immediate reaction is "I'd better check that I'm in tune".

Worse that tuning between numbers is widdling licks from the next song he's going to play or widdling their favourite test piece. The lead guitarist in a band I was in some years ago kept playing the same bit every time. Drove me mental.

This is getting silly. I'll make you one. PM me the length you need and delivery details.

[quote name='JackLondon' post='780606' date='Mar 20 2010, 10:52 AM']what about the switch itself? maybe this is the fault that happened during transport? try getting a new switch, should be no more than €5![/quote] £20 would be a bit closer. You can only get them from an EBMM dealer/distributor.

Move It - Cliff and The Shadows

There are very few power amps that bridge into 4-ohms. Most QSC do however. I used to have a PLX1602, it was excellent and bridgeable into 4-ohms. 2U x 19-inch.

[quote name='Bobby K' post='779474' date='Mar 19 2010, 09:28 AM']Can anyone give me an answer on this.. i'm leaving for Glasgow imminently Sorry to be a pain...[/quote] If 1048 is 8-ohms and 1153 is 8-ohms then using them together will be 4-ohms.

I use an Epifani UL212 2x12 that is rated at 4-ohms with an Orange all-valve head. It is very light and managable. There is also the Genz Benz NEOX 212T which is also a 4-ohm cab. Without looking inside you wouldn't know but some of the older 4-speaker cabs used 16-ohm drivers in series parallel to make them 16-ohms. They can be rewired to be 4-ohms. Yet again Trace did make a 4-ohm version of the 1153 called the 1154 IIRC. You could simply swap the driver in your cab for a 4-ohm unit.

[quote name='Bobby K' post='779272' date='Mar 18 2010, 11:13 PM']what do you mean? Do you mean it would be better to use the top section of the head (the GP11) as opposed to the valve input section. Sorry if that sounds confusing...[/quote] I didn't mean to confuse. The GP11 is all solid-state, the direct input on the VA350 chassis is valve all the way but has no tone controls IIRC.

It's not really a power problem, more to do with providing the correct anode load for the output valves so they work correctly. The reason that the output transformer has a speaker impedance selector is so the anode load always remains the same. The 8-ohm 1153 will work, maybe not optimally, however it will put a strain on the output valves and could well shorten their life. A matched set of 6 KT88s are expensive. BTW I think you'll find a lot of solid-state in that pre-amp.

[quote name='Musicman20' post='777337' date='Mar 17 2010, 01:18 PM']Can you go out from an output of the Sansamp BDDI or Aguilar Tonehammer into headphones? I would really need wireless though...I could not deal with another cable to the pedal especially to my head. Ill see how this new band goes first...they dont play silly loud, so I can hear myself even DI'd with BDDI.[/quote] Nope. Those outputs are either instrument or line level. You need to think of earphones/ headphones as very small loudspeakers, consequently you need a very small power amp (headphone amp) to drive them.

[quote name='Jamesemt' post='777012' date='Mar 17 2010, 09:12 AM']I currently use the ACS in ear custom mould ear Plugs and they sell earphones which replace the filters. If I buy those, connect to a suitable output on my amp and buy an inline volume control for the earphones ...erm is that it? How do you go on with the wires? Feed them down the back of your shirt? Is it really that simple? ACS want £120 for the earphones that work with their moulds - anything cheaper that's compatible? I've been using the custom moulded plugs for about a year so am used to wearing them ( sounds weird without them tbh)[/quote] Not quite. You must not connect the headphones to any speaker output from the amp. You need to use a line-out however the signal is not suitable for driving headphones/earphones so you'll need a personal headphone amp such as the Rane PM50, PM351 or similar from ART. The alternaive is to go wireless. I have a set of ACS T3 custom in-ear phones. Whilst they are great for listening to my ipod they are not much use with the bass as they can't drive the low frequencies loud enough for me. They just distort. Expensive ipod phones. Before you shell out £120 on the earphones make sure that they can handle the bass frequencies. Get ACS's confirmation in writing so you have some leverage to get your money back if they don't do it for you. I have a pair of Sony in-ear phones that are 10 times better with bass than the ACS ones however they do don't fit the ear mounds. One day I'll sort it.

[quote name='Nostromo' post='774619' date='Mar 14 2010, 07:55 PM']Hi obbm Thanks for your concise advice. If you were me, would you bother to change it ? . . . . . I've been trying to work it out, and I reckon the amp has done about 2500 to 3000 hours work probably nearer 3000 ? . . . mainly running in mono mode into a 4ohm load so getting warm. Cheers,[/quote] Firstly how you run the output stage has no bearing on the pre-amp valve, it's just a stage in the pre-amp. To give you an idea there are valves made in the 1950s and 1960s that are still performing well today after years of use, in fact some are highly desirable. If the amp is reliably delivering the sound you had when you bought it then don't mess with it. If you are unsure then you could always get another valve and try it - I do it occasionally - and if it's better then you've cracked it. If there is no change the at least you have a spare for the future.

Pre-amp valves need no setting-up or adjustment. With the amp switched off and disconnected from the mains, remove cover unplug old valve plug-in new valve replace covers job done Just because it is old and has been used a lot doen't mean it's worn out. These types of valves usually go on for decades.

Paul bought a cable for his new wireless system. Perfect transaction.

That is very nice.

[quote name='thebassman' post='768299' date='Mar 8 2010, 06:20 PM']I see they do the muting connectors. Does anyone know if they work with stingray 5 basses. The neutrik site says they do not work with some active bass guitars.[/quote] Works fine with my SR5. Just a slight click as the pre-amp is energised. I suppose with a big rig that might be a loud click. Never had the chance to try it though.