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obbm

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Everything posted by obbm

  1. obbm
    [quote name='ziggydolphinboy' post='758980' date='Feb 27 2010, 11:42 AM']any pictures of the unit you have? zig[/quote] Initial post updated.
  2. obbm
    [quote name='Delberthot' post='758953' date='Feb 27 2010, 11:03 AM']The lack of a manual in the box had me on a search to see if such a thing existed as no one else seems to have been able to locate one. [url="http://www.orangeamps.com/admin/downloads/Terror_Bass_manual_20100205.pdf"]http://www.orangeamps.com/admin/downloads/...al_20100205.pdf[/url] ta da I am still concerned about the speaker outputs though. Does anyone who has one of these know if the output furthest from the 4/8ohm switch doesn't output anything when set to 8ohms? I only get sound from the output nearest the switch[/quote] I have mine apart at the moment and the 2 Speakons are mounted in parallel on a small PC board and there with just 2 wires going to the power amp module. There is no way the switch can have anything to do with the output sockets.
  3. obbm
    [quote name='green' post='758924' date='Feb 27 2010, 10:33 AM']i'm in germany. battery is ok, switch is ok, jack is ok. checked them all. the problem is: when the sound gets weaker, i also get a little bit of hum in serial and paralled mode. which means, that there is only one coil running. in parallel mode, when it occurs, you can hear very clearly that the sound changes from the snappy parallel sound, to a more crowly single coil sound plus hum. i guess, there must be something with the pickup, but how can it break ???[/quote] The Sterling pre-amp is almost the same as the SR5. I've spent a lot of time with these and the input circuitry is quite complex as the signal is routed backwards and forwards between the selector switch and the circuit board. It may be something as simple as a wire coming off the switch. I suspect that to get it properly resolved you will need to get it to a Musicman specialist to have a look, someone who fully understands the pre-amp.
  4. obbm
    Green, where are you?
  5. obbm
    [quote name='Hit&Run' post='758667' date='Feb 26 2010, 09:52 PM']I can't believe I didn't pick up on that. I never even thought about it! I had seen one on RS, but I don't know if the jack would fit the preamp box, so I reckon I'll get one from [url="http://cpc.farnell.com/1/1/70759-ac-ac-adaptor-9v-2600ma-me090a260uk-pro-elec.html"]here[/url]. It's not a wall wart, but I don't think that will matter for my intended applications. As always, thanks for the advice. H&R[/quote] That looks like a very good solution, especially with the uncertainty regarding the connector size.
  6. obbm
    [quote name='Hit&Run' post='757683' date='Feb 25 2010, 10:41 PM']I've got loads of boss style 9v adapters (admittedly they're from a brother typewriter, BT answering machine etc..) but the jack end is too big to fit the behringer. I've got a couple of variable voltage/variable plug-size adapters that fit the unit, but it won't light up with them. The unit does light up with it's provided adapter & shaver combination. I was thinking it must be the high mA requirements (it says 1300mA on the behringer adapter) that means my 'variable' adapters don't light it up.[/quote] The clue here is in the title AC/AC. Most 9-volt adaptors put out 9-volts dc. What your unit needs is AC, basically a transformer that puts out 9-volts AC. The supplied unit obviously puts out AC but all your other adaptors put out DC, hence no worky. CPC or RS ccomponents have them in wall-wart form.
  7. obbm
    Interesting username history.
  8. obbm
    Still available. Last chance before Freecycle.
  9. obbm
    [quote name='Musicman20' post='755966' date='Feb 24 2010, 11:58 AM']Can anyone suggest a nice set of headphones for using when playing along to tracks on my RH450? I use an old set of Pioneers which seem ok...not sure what ill get by upgrading but I thought id ask. They are literally 14 years old but actually still look new! Anyway, I think budget is no more than £60/70... Cheaper would be nice! But I dont want to compromise on quality. Thanks[/quote] Slightly over your budget but I recently got a pair of Sony MDR-XB700 headphones. Seriously good clear bass and very comfortable to wear. Perhaps you could get to try some in a Sony Centre somewhere.
  10. obbm
    The very, very first gig (1962) was with: Home-made bass Phillips tape recorder (as pre-amp) Household radiogram (power amp and speakers). The first serious rig (1963) was: Framus Star Bass, small bodied, 30-inch scale. Linear 30 amp Home-built copy of Marshall 4x12 using Bakers Group 25 speakers from RCS in Croydon. Current: Orange AD200B + Epifani UL212 MB F1 + Epifani UL112/T112NYC
  11. obbm
    [quote name='OldGit' post='755324' date='Feb 23 2010, 07:02 PM']I'm adding a jack and socket connection in a combo so I can use the speaker from another head if needed. The question is: which side of the socket has the wire that connects to the speaker positive terminal? The tip or ring? Thanks[/quote] I would suggest +ve to the tip however if it is only one speaker and one head then it doesn't matter. If you have more than one speaker then they need to be wired the same to be in phase (but then you knew that).
  12. obbm
    Rack Mount (2U) Effects Proecssor. I bought this as the front end of a rack system when I started playing again in the early 90s as it has both tube and solid state pre-amps as well as a very comprehensive effects section which is easily programmable. I have just retrieved it from my son and seems to be working OK although I suspect that the CMOS battery needs replacing (I'll have a look). I couldn't possibly explain all that it does but there are details [url="http://www.artproaudio.com/products.asp?type=124&cat=18&id=32"]here[/url] and at the bottom of that page is a link to the comprehensive manual. This is the original Nightbass and not the SE version. These come up for sale so rarely that I have no idea what it's worth but I'd rather trade/swap for something interesting. Try me and see. I can only say no if it doesn't take my fancy. I've checked it out and the only thing that I can find wrong is that the CMOS battery needs replacing (I have a couple on order) and that the lower half of the top row of the LCD display does not work. It has been like that since I bought it and in no way effects the working of the unit, especially the patch editing as that is all done on the lower row. I have had some interest and would be happy to sell for £100 plus postage or will include a cup of tea if collected.
  13. obbm
    There are also: Alembic F1X pre-amp BBE BMAX-T pre-amp Peavey MAX pre-amp
  14. obbm
    [quote name='stevekendal' post='751767' date='Feb 20 2010, 01:27 PM']I have a RAH1000 with a burned-out power section asnd have been using it just as a pre amp cos I cant aFFORD REPAIRS. gOING CHEAP if you want it. Steve.[/quote] Perfect for a BFC.
  15. obbm
    I have no idea how old this is. It has been in my son's possession for several years but an expanding family means they need the space and so it has to go one way or another. It seems to contain 3 x10-inch drivers and still works. At one time it might have been an active speaker as there is a hole in the back which might have been for a power amp. H: 38", W: 28", D: 14". Impedance is anyone's guess. Offered here before I put in the local Freecycle. 20/02 - More info. Had the back off and it has 3 x 10inch drivers, 8-ohm, all wired in parallel, so 2.66-ohms.
  16. obbm
    [quote name='slobluesine' post='748718' date='Feb 17 2010, 05:36 PM']Mike Dimin, head of marketing for EA[/quote] Well they don't publish the fact and I never believe a Marketing Department, I've worked in one.
  17. obbm
    [quote name='slobluesine' post='748687' date='Feb 17 2010, 05:15 PM']seems its NOT a good idea to run an amp at 2ohms, so why do they make them to run at 2ohms?[/quote] Where did you see that the EA Doubler runs at 2-ohms? All I can find in the spec is 550-watts @ 4-ohms and 310-watts @ 8-ohms.
  18. obbm
    [quote name='slobluesine' post='748628' date='Feb 17 2010, 04:32 PM']... seems ohms law is a load of ole bollox then[/quote] What makes you think that?
  19. obbm
    [quote name='slobluesine' post='748441' date='Feb 17 2010, 01:53 PM']what are the benefits for my amp running at 2ohms instead of 8?[/quote] What amp have you got John? if it's a valve amp then there is not a problem if the output transformer has a 2-ohm tap Solid-state amps are a different matter. Even though manufacturers say they will run at 2-ohm it does put a huge heat load on the output stage. I think the general concensus is that there are no benefits running at 2-ohms, only potential problems.
  20. obbm
    It's all down to Ohm's Law.
  21. obbm
    [quote name='Delberthot' post='746114' date='Feb 15 2010, 05:04 PM']Thought that [/quote] Considering that the jack plug is, in theory, only rated for low power, why would you want to use one for a 500-watt amp?
  22. obbm
    [quote name='Delberthot' post='746095' date='Feb 15 2010, 04:55 PM']Do these only have speakon connections or are they the combined ones where you can also plug in 1/4" jack cables as well?[/quote] Mine is Speakon only.
  23. obbm
    [quote name='thebassman' post='745028' date='Feb 14 2010, 05:45 PM']I think these guys are kidding you. The amp will run perfect with an 8ohm cab. The only effect will be the amp will output half the stated power. If you double the ohms you half the output power. You only need watch out for matching cabs with lower ohm rating than the amp can output. Cheers thebassman[/quote] Sorry but that only applies to solid-state amps, it doesn't apply to valve amps. In a valve amp the anode load of the output valves is determined directly by the impedance of the speaker load. This is why they have different output transformer taps in order to ensure that the valves always see the correct load. If you have an impedance missmatch the valves will have an incorrect load, either draw too much or too less current and not work at their designed section of the load curve.
  24. obbm
    [quote name='josh3184' post='743531' date='Feb 12 2010, 09:48 PM']Sterling necks are to Stringrays what Jazzes are to Precisions essentially [/quote] Don't think that applies to the 5-string versions. I was advised that the Stingray 5 and Sterling 5 necks are the same, it's just the bodies, pick-ups, etc. that are different.
  25. obbm
    [quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='741857' date='Feb 11 2010, 11:31 AM']Thanks for the responses so far. I don't think my MM 'Ray 5 has a circuit in it! It's a 1990, and has no phantom coil, and an Alnico-poled pick-up. I guess it's too old...[/quote] According to the circuit I have for a pre-92 there should be a 3.3K resistor across contacts of the selector swich to compensate for the lack of the phantom coil.
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