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Everything posted by Jakester
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Thanks - I tend to look for the cleanest sound because I can dirty it up or go 'more vintage' with EQ or a mute. I guess the sort of thing I like is the modern, mids-heavy Tom Kennedy type of thing: I should say I'm in no way comparing myself to him, nor do I play his style - just like the sound, that's all!
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Yep, looked in the direction of the AG700 but might be a bit more power than needed. As per my query in the OP, can the Ashdowns do clean/modern, or do they have the vintage tone baked in?
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Thanks - it was your comment on that thread that made me query whether the RM could do modern/clean.
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Looking for alternatives to Mark Bass, not different models.
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I currently play through a Mark Bass combo - the CMD121P, albeit the head has been replaced by a LM3. For louder gigs I have the NY121 cab. The reason for replacement was that the combo head kept flaking out on me - intermittently cutting out, suddenly jumping in volume etc etc. Despite an expensive trip to Real, the issues weren't solved, so rather than chuck more money at it, I bought a 2nd hand LM3 and stuck that in. However, I am still worried that that might suddenly go too. I've taken to carrying around a back up head with me which, whilst good practice overall, is a pain for rehearsals. The backup isn't really a suitable long-term replacement - it's a GR Mini, which struggles with louder stuff. Basically I'm constantly worrying about the MB head, and I'm about ready to stop using MB stuff altogether due to the lack of repairability. So, I'm looking for recommendations for replacements. I like a clean, modern tone - I do occasionally add dirt, but that comes from pedals, so I don't need it in an amp. I like the small MB form factor. There's a few EBS bargains on the forum ATM but they're all full-width rack mount heads. A friend has an Ashdown RM500 combo. It's larger than the CMD, but I have no complaints about the cabs, just the head, so I could use the combo headless as a cab. My concern about Ashdown is whenever I've used them in the past, they seem to have a 'baked in' vintage tone - albeit with the RM specifically I've only briefly played through my friend's with his settings. Can the RM do a clean, modern tone? I've had a GK MB500 in the past, which was more than loud enough, but a bit too aggro. The Aguilar heads look good - the AG500 would have been perfect, but they don't do it any more. The TH500 would do a job, but again I don't need the drive. Any others? How do Eich heads fare? I liked GB heads when they were around, but I'd have thought repairability would be an issue now the company's gone. Genzler seem good, but quite ££. I like the GR Mini when I use it, but the more powerful GR heads seem to have unnecessarily complicated features (such as the light show stuff or biamps) which makes me worry about longevity. Any others I should be looking at?
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This sort of thing might do the job: https://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/usb-midi-converter However, I suspect you are probably in for quite a ride in terms of getting the appropriate channels worked out to trigger the sounds you need, as if it's not a 'top of the line' module, edit functions for midi triggering might be limited. Looking at the Nitro module, editing functions seem quite basic so it may just not have the functionality you're after.
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Like a Thumpinator…🙄
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Fdecks aren’t available in the UK.
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Here’s my thread - I was using it to reduce feedback on a DB: However, the Thumpinator has a pretty aggressive and complex filter compared to something like a Broughton HPF - the sfx is 36db/octave, and the Broughton 12db. For me, it really reduced stage rumble which was causing feedback. For an EUB, it may not have that benefit because there’s little to no acoustic feedback. However, it will still tighten up the sound generally and potentially give you more headroom by reducing very low/muddy frequencies which eat up your amp’s power.
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They'll say they'll send the money, but "UPS" will need an 'insurance fee' to cover the delivery, which they say will be refunded in the money they send to you as reimbursement. They'll send a link to you, and either you pay a sum of money over, or they get your details via a malicious link and/or malware, or all three. You're then out the 'insurance fee' and of course nothing ever arrives.
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I have the same amp. A Thumpinator made a lot of difference.
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I’ve used REW - but you’ll need a measurement mic and the calibration files: https://www.roomeqwizard.com
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Yes, if you’re using a 9v battery to power the pedal, and you leave it connected (i.e. input jack plugged in) then it will probably drain 9 out of 10 pedals left like that. Easiest thing to do is just ‘unhitch’ the jack after playing - just pull the input jack out of the pedal an inch or so (once the amp is off) and you’ll break any connection drawing power in the pedal.
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LOL @ predicable chin wobbling frother outrage whilst completely missing the point. In your rush to be offended, you obviously overlooked this.
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Yes, let's keep believing everything we read, and keep on stoking the culture wars, shall we? In relation to J&W, they are brilliant, but very much of their time. When reading it is very jarring to come across terms which are today unacceptable to use in society. According to the papers, the (limited) alterations include "numerous racial terms [which] have been either cut or altered both in character dialogue and narration in the voice of Bertie". None of the terms altered were in any way pivotal to the plot, and, if you're really that bothered, no doubt the original editions will still be published, or there are millions of unexpurgated second-hand copies available. I'm sure you were just as outraged when Hugh Laurie and Stephen Fry didn't use the terms in the television adaptations? No? Funny that.... To address your second hyperbolic question, there is a profound difference between fiction, and historical fact. Literally no-one (apart from a few cranks and nut-job deniers) are even suggesting that society should "Destroy and get rid of all Nazi history? Films, books, witness testimony...The Camps??" and to suggest that is not only wrong but also pretty offensive. But hey, if it keeps the Tories in power, it's worth, it, eh @greavesbass?
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What a load of reactionary cobblers. Step away from the Daily Heil, mate....
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I have some raw maple parts that I would like to stain to achieve a more 'vintage' maple finish. I was looking to put a final finish on of Osmo Polyx Oil, using a 'wipe-on' method, so I would like a stain that can be applied in the same way, and will work with the Osmo. Does anyone have any product recommendations please?
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Er, I'm the OP and I didn't mention either?
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I had the same queries, and spoke to Bass Bags about it. They recommended a bow and rosin to go with it - and were really helpful.
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At the risk of further derailment, I do think this is completely uncalled for. You've clearly demonstrated you're an insufferable derrière, and when called on it you resort to that, which is puerile and pathetic. I missed whatever went on before the thread was tidied too, but I'm surprised that was left. A gracious 'whoops, I'm sorry' and bowing out would probably have been appropriate at that point.
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Or, evidently, both?
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Maybe do a bit of neck winding in?
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Sounds a bit over-complicated to me! If it's *just* for tone shaping, why not just use a passive EQ pedal? I mean, a *proper* HPF used for tone-shaping purposes isn't really going to be doing much that the subsequent one in the FX loop won't already be doing.
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So you want to run *two* HPFs? Why?