Jakester

Slight tangent, but how do you find the Mercury IEMs? I'm currently looking and I was angling towards ACS, as I can't really justify super high-end IEMs with the amount of playing I do, but Mercury seem slightly cheaper for a similar spec.

I've not used an ui16, but the digital desks I have used have allowed each user to control their own monitor (aux) sends via an app. Can you not do that so you're in control of your own mix?

Has anyone ever come across stuck strap locks, and if so, how did you resolve it? I have a set of genuine, matching Schaller straplocks on a bass. I was hoping to swap the strap between basses on a gig I'm doing - four or so numbers on fretless, then swap the strap and the rest on fretted. Both basses have the Schaller strap buttons on them. I've done it in the past, but this time I can't get one of the strap locks to retract far enough to clear the 'detent' on the button, which means I can't slide the strap off. I've undone the strap fixings so just the lock is on, but even then the retractable pin won't lift far enough. I've put a fair bit of force on it to try and lever it up - it seems like it's reached the limit of its 'retractability', but I don't quite understand why it's not working as it's never been a problem before. I'm loath to apply more force at this stage as I don't want to rip the button out of the bass, and I'd prefer if possible not to have to destroy the locks too as they're quite pricey! It's hard to unscrew the button as you can't access the screw with the lock in place. You can see the pin from the lock still 'home' in the detent on the button even with the lever lifted as high as possible with pliers. I supposed I could probably get at the button with some pliers to unscrew it with the lock in place, but I'd prefer not to do that if possible to avoid the risk of damaging the finish or the buttons. To answer the obvious questions - yes, they are genuine, I bought them brand new from a music store and fitted the buttons and locks all from the same set (I've previously had problems mixing newer and older sets before). They're the newer, knurled locking wheel version, as opposed to the older, hex nut sets (which which I never had a day's trouble once in place!!). The lock is stuck to the original Schaller button that came with it, not the ones on the other bass, so there shouldn't be any question of compatibility problems. Any ideas? 🤔

You don't need a Neuro Hub to use a Micro with the C4. It works over USB Midi - you need a USB Host, but it does work.

Interestingly (to me, at least!) I came across the GK Legacy amps and they appear to offer switchable impedance down to 2ohms, to allow different combinations of cabs. Their combos also deliver full power at both 4ohm and 8ohms with power being 'diverted' between the cabs as necessary. I guess we'll see features like this more often in future.

One guy I play with uses a Helix FX with a Marshall Origin 20 - nice valve amp, not too loud/heavy but fine for backline in smaller places, and mics well for larger gigs. Another has a full Kemper modelling setup which does go through FOH and he has a monitor if needed. Both sound great.

Ah, I sit corrected. But still, they must have known the type of event they were about to play.

Happy to take the money, weren't they?

Well, all looks good so far! I was actually doing some raw maple drum hoops that arrived unfinished. I was after a light vintage look as that matches the factory Yamaha look, albeit the Yamaha ones I have are about 20 years old so darkened a bit. However, the Osmo Polyx oil was exactly what I was after. Two coats in with light sanding between coats and it’s perfect. Here’s a pic after the first coat:

I’ve found I end up dancing like a loon. Only really realised when I watched the video back!

Drummer is Ronald Bruner Jr - https://drummerworld.com/drummers/Ronald_Bruner_Jr.html Who happens to be Thundercat's brother and who plays with big Stan Clarke (as we're using contractions!) and Kamasi Washington too. Monster player, from a family of monster players!

Thanks for bumping this - I actually got one of these, and it's been great. Tuning seems at least as accurate as my old Polytune. I will keep my eyes peeled.

Pretty obvious from your splenetic ranting...

Ah, yes, that “woke nightmare” perpetuated by “elites” of the political party that’s been in power for the last 13 years; the, er… *checks notes* .. Conservative Party? You must be one of the four GBeebies viewers.

Well, it's for use of a sample, not an actual positive contribution to the songwriting of the album, so not really.

Thanks, did check it out, but I tend to mostly just use one 8ohm cab (i.e. the combo) and I think the 502 only puts out its max power at 2ohms, so it's only 250w at 4ohms and I presume even less at 8ohms. Good price though! I do, but it's away being repaired ATM. Most of my gigs are in a orchestra so I'm doubling electric and DB and almost always with no PA support. I mean, we usually have a PA but there's almost always no foldback and nothing but keys and vocals go through it.

Thanks - I tend to look for the cleanest sound because I can dirty it up or go 'more vintage' with EQ or a mute. I guess the sort of thing I like is the modern, mids-heavy Tom Kennedy type of thing: I should say I'm in no way comparing myself to him, nor do I play his style - just like the sound, that's all!

Yep, looked in the direction of the AG700 but might be a bit more power than needed. As per my query in the OP, can the Ashdowns do clean/modern, or do they have the vintage tone baked in?

Thanks - it was your comment on that thread that made me query whether the RM could do modern/clean.

Looking for alternatives to Mark Bass, not different models.

I currently play through a Mark Bass combo - the CMD121P, albeit the head has been replaced by a LM3. For louder gigs I have the NY121 cab. The reason for replacement was that the combo head kept flaking out on me - intermittently cutting out, suddenly jumping in volume etc etc. Despite an expensive trip to Real, the issues weren't solved, so rather than chuck more money at it, I bought a 2nd hand LM3 and stuck that in. However, I am still worried that that might suddenly go too. I've taken to carrying around a back up head with me which, whilst good practice overall, is a pain for rehearsals. The backup isn't really a suitable long-term replacement - it's a GR Mini, which struggles with louder stuff. Basically I'm constantly worrying about the MB head, and I'm about ready to stop using MB stuff altogether due to the lack of repairability. So, I'm looking for recommendations for replacements. I like a clean, modern tone - I do occasionally add dirt, but that comes from pedals, so I don't need it in an amp. I like the small MB form factor. There's a few EBS bargains on the forum ATM but they're all full-width rack mount heads. A friend has an Ashdown RM500 combo. It's larger than the CMD, but I have no complaints about the cabs, just the head, so I could use the combo headless as a cab. My concern about Ashdown is whenever I've used them in the past, they seem to have a 'baked in' vintage tone - albeit with the RM specifically I've only briefly played through my friend's with his settings. Can the RM do a clean, modern tone? I've had a GK MB500 in the past, which was more than loud enough, but a bit too aggro. The Aguilar heads look good - the AG500 would have been perfect, but they don't do it any more. The TH500 would do a job, but again I don't need the drive. Any others? How do Eich heads fare? I liked GB heads when they were around, but I'd have thought repairability would be an issue now the company's gone. Genzler seem good, but quite ££. I like the GR Mini when I use it, but the more powerful GR heads seem to have unnecessarily complicated features (such as the light show stuff or biamps) which makes me worry about longevity. Any others I should be looking at?

This sort of thing might do the job: https://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/usb-midi-converter However, I suspect you are probably in for quite a ride in terms of getting the appropriate channels worked out to trigger the sounds you need, as if it's not a 'top of the line' module, edit functions for midi triggering might be limited. Looking at the Nitro module, editing functions seem quite basic so it may just not have the functionality you're after.

Like a Thumpinator…🙄