paul_5

Me too. I’ve got a compressor on my board, but it’s just there to compensate for changes in signal level when changing pickups/basses.

Mine’s a late 2011 i7 with 16GB of ddr3 RAM and an ssd, so it’s already obsolete!! check on the minimum operating system for the current version of GarageBand though, as you can’t rollback to an older OS than the machine was built for. SSD is the single best upgrade for an ageing Mac.

Let me know when you do and I’ll try low-balling you!

DI is essential for plugging into a PA or desk for providing a balanced signal with the correct impedance. Multi FX are great for making awesome space noises and such. Some fx units will provide a line level signal, which is louder than standard bass/fx pedal outputs, which might be the right impedance, or balanced, or not. I think the original Zoom B3?has a dedicated DI output as well as a normal 1/4” output, so that might be worth looking at.

Also watch out for plug-ins that hog all of your resources; I’m running Pro Tools, and every time I load up kontakt player it gooses my system. I’ve had to remove it from my plug-ins folder, as even having it in there and unloaded slows down my machine, it works ok in Cubase though.

A good quality compresser, eq and reverb are pretty much all you need.* *as well as IR cab simulators, pianos, synths, bitcrushers, drum machines and drum kit emulators, delays, samplers, multi band compressors, distressers etc....,

Listing doesn’t say anything about the relic’ing... Free p&p ‘ is it’ll fit in a Jiffy bag and go as a ‘large letter’ 😄

Meh. “Man who hasn’t made a record for 20 years is better than other, dead man” Slow news day.

I’ve got 2 custom Jazzes (one fretted, one fretless) that are ‘for me’, and a bitsa P that’s for sweaty/bawdy dep gigs. I could probably get away with just the P and my fretless, but it’s not killing anyone to have an extra bass...

If it’s just at one particular pitch then I’d say it was something loose that vibrates best at that frequency. Are there any loose parts on your bass or the amp?

I thought this was a long post on another thread, so I'm starting another one dedicated to my latest project.... I LOVE my DHA pedal, but thought that it might just be improved a little bit... I've had a play about this week with wiring a footswitch in parallel with the 'Colour' and 'boost' switches - effectively allowing me to switch them both on or off without having to bend down and flick 2 switches. To this end I've used an old 9 pin serial lead (needs 9 wires to do it properly and add an LED) and it seems to work very well. The Boost channel is required, as the 'Colour' switch adds more overdrive (a good thing) but compresses the signal which effectively reduces the output. I can also preset the 'Boost' to a second channel for parts when the whole band gets louder (and dirtier!). I've replaced the 'Boost' switch (which was originally an ON-ON toggle) with an ON-OFF-ON toggle, effectively taking the original switch out of the equation, as the part of the circuitry is a bit more complicated, and I don't want to upset anything. It’s very much at the ‘proof of concept’ stage, so I decided to run the cable through one of the holes above the tube: inside the DHA: and the tiny foot switch; much smaller than a standard o/d pedal, so takes up less room on my board, and the power for the LED is taken from the DHA, so it’s not a drain on my 9v supply. The next step will be to put ‘proper’ sockets on the pedals (and tidy up the voltage divider/current limiting resistor for the LED!) so that it can be used with a simple 9 pin lead and I don't have stuff poking out of holes in the top!

I've had a play about this week with wiring a footswitch in parallel with the 'Colour' and 'boost' switches - effectively allowing me to switch them both on or off without having to bend down and flick 2 switches. To this end I've used an old 9 pin serial lead (needs 9 wires to do it properly and add an LED) and it seems to work very well. The Boost channel is required, as the 'Colour' switch adds more overdrive (a good thing) but compresses the signal which effectively reduces the output. I can also preset the 'Boost' to a second channel for parts when the whole band gets louder (and dirtier!). I've replaced the 'Boost' switch (which was originally an ON-ON toggle) with an ON-OFF-ON toggle, effectively taking the original switch out of the equation, as the part of the circuitry is a bit more complicated, and I don't want to upset anything. It’s very much at the ‘proof of concept’ stage, so I decided to run the cable through one of the holes above the tube: inside the DHA: and the tiny foot switch; much smaller than a standard o/d pedal, so takes up less room on my board, and the power for the LED is taken from the DHA, so it’s not a drain on my 9v supply. The next step will be to put ‘proper’ sockets on the pedals, so that it can be used with or without extra switches...

Here's my current squeeze. Stay tuned for an update...

Engineer’s Thumb. The ratio control is actually a lean blend, so I can use parallel compression in a single unit with a small footprint. 👍🏻

I really rate Alex’s playing, and his approach to creating great bass lines. I love playing Girls and Boys on my P bass.

These have been getting a lot of love on here recently: https://www.studiospares.com/Microphones/DI-Boxes/Studiospares-DI-BoxPreamp_458190.htm

Biro? Only if you’re confident.

That makes sense. I know very little about speakers, but that sounds about right.

First thing I’d do would be to measure the DC resistance of the p’up. Get a multimeter that’s set to read resistance (ohms) up to 20k and put one probe on each of the wires. pickups can vary wildly between 6 or 7 up to 15 or 16. Generally the greater the resistance, the louder the pup is.

Mine runs compressor, octave, envelope filter, then various dirt boxes and finally chorus and phaser.

Welding nozzle cleaners do exactly the same job for a whole lot less money!

Led Zeppelin at Live Aid...