paul_5

I used to do quite a bit of this, and it taught me to play tastefully, and really be there in a supportive role and nothing more, which was great discipline, and a very valuable lesson. I'd recommend the gig to anyone. Apart from the homophobia. Of course, your mileage may vary.

Moi aussi.

Two fingers bad, four fingers good.

All of my power cables sound the same. ☹️

I consider reading music to be an essential skill; I have no memory, so it really helps.

I’ve gone back to Rotosound swing bass on my fretless bass; I just prefer the sound. I’m keeping flats on my Pbass though...

Jesus! That nut’s not even close. string spacing is 19mm, 27mm, 15mm. Trees died for this people, actual trees. 😢

Now his missus has done the same 😄

I started giving this some thought, then realised I don't really care and it’s none of my business. Here’s Tom with the weather.

that’s gotta be *really* heavy though!!

I don’t worry about the weight of a bass since I bought a springy neoprene strap; MUCH more comfortable!!

SX are another brand when you’re on the lookout for a really playable instrument on a budget.

The Getaway though?

A couple from the first Jamiroquai album:

Anyone used one of these to drive a power amp into a bass cab? Just looking for a small, portable lightweight box for in-ear gigs that can occasionally do back line, depending on the venue.

The input cap is C1 - stock value is 0.01uf (10nf), I’d crank it up to 0.1 (100nf); this is the component that determines how much low end goes into the circuit. Edit: because you’ve got a high value resistor before the cap (2M2 going to ground) forming half of the high pass filter (hpf) your ‘corner frequency’ is about 7Hz, try it as it is before changing it out. C2 is the 0.047uf that goes into the 4k7 resistor, then to the gain control. That might be ok as it is, but if you find that you’re losing too much low end, or that your distortion is a bit ‘fuzzy’ then increase the value of this cap, you can work up and experiment (I think the next value would be something like 0.068, then 0.1) C3 is a tiny cap, and shaves off all of the extreme, unpleasant noise that we don’t want amplified. You can leave that as is. The coupling cap is the 4.7uf polarised electrolytic after the opamp stage. That filters the audio signal so that we don’t have DC noise in the audio path. In guitar and bass pedals anything of that size (or bigger) is generally used for DC filtering -C6 and C7 are large values (relatively speaking) and do just that to the power supply input at ‘+9v (T)’. Your output cap is C5 and in this configuration is acting as half of a low pass filter (along with the10k resistor) so should be fine as is. then you’ve got a final clipping stage (the 3 diodes going to ground) before the master volume control. Depending on what you want to use it for then you can decrease the value of the gain pot; 500k is a LOT of filth! Hope this helps.

Generally the input and output (first and last in the circuit) caps need doubling in value (47nf to 100nf) and depending on the circuit I’d do the coupling caps too. edit: there’s also a capacitor from pin 2 of the 741 opamp which connects to a 4k7 resistor, then to the ‘gain’ pot. the resistor sets the minimum signal level, so that when the gain knob is at zero you’re still allowing some signal to pass, and the capacitor before that helps to form a high pass filter for the drive circuit, I’d increase that too; doubling this cap value will drop the frequency by an octave

Dog Days Are Over by Florence and the Machine

Been revisiting Jamiroquai’s ‘Energency on planet Earth’ this week with Stuart Zender and Andrew Levy sharing bass duties. Awesome, awesome stuff.

Lille? That’s practically Belgium!! 😄

Forty Six and Two.

How did you manage to look at it long enough to photograph it, and not pick it up?