paul_5

If I'm using the pedalboard I'll use my DHA VT1 DI EQ, but if it's a 'bass only' practice session then I use a cheap Pocket Rock-it plug on thing. I've got a Chord thingy for guitar too (almost identical to the Pocket Rock-it) that doesn't sound as good on the bass, but will do for guitar practice.

I'm in full agreement; more knobs than strings? I'm out.

Never owned one, but I've played a couple. In my opinion they really *do* live up to the hype. Just wish I could afford to buy one. Realistically if I had £3k spare I'd get a new car - unless I had a massive tax bill and needed to make some of it disappear….

Done. I realise I';m probably not your target market, as I make my pedals at home, but hopefully I;ve been able to help.

Depends what it is. If it's old, and with real components (not miniscule surface mount stuff) it could be a great place to start tinkering and modding effects.

I once used my guitarist's volume pedal. I thought it was brilliant - he was less pleased...

Once you've checked for 'furrows' on the board, it's the same as any other bass - check that the neck is straight, and that the truss rod adjustment and bridge saddles work - setup on a fretless is critical if you're after the 'mwah'. Let's face it, who isn't?

Rotosound 55s? https://youtu.be/j9E4K54kV0Y

FWIW I'd recommend desoldering the old switch from the board whilst it's still screwed onto the case. Use a desoldering tool, or similar to get the majority of the solder off first, then undo the nuts holding the switch to the case - saves wobbling the ribbon cable about too much when removing the old one. Soldering it back in I'd look at doing this in reverse - screw the new switch in place (making sure that the lugs of the new switch line up with the holes on the daughterboard, then solder the new one in.

If it's got 6 lugs then it's a DPDT (2x3), a 3PDT would have 9 lugs. You *can* get a DPDT footswitch from Maplin, but they're cheaper (and better quality) from places like pedal parts: [url="http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Alpha_DPDT_Footswitch_-_Latching/p847124_14395207.aspx"]http://shop.pedalpar...4_14395207.aspx[/url] or doctortweek, (his site's been down for a while though). Ideally I'd go for the 'Alpha' brand, or what are known as Taiwan Blue, as they're much better quality than the 99p eBay specials. Whichever one you go for make sure it's a latching switch, otherwise you'll have to keep your foot on it all the time!

I don't use my big rig at home - it's all headphones until band rehearsal and gigs.

Should be a standard DPDT (double throw, double pole) or 3PDT (triple pole, double throw) if I remember - it's been a while since I fixed any EHX stuff. It's probably soldered to its own daughter-board, then connected to the main board by ribbon cable, so you'll have to be careful when moving it about. Could you take the back off and post a photograph on here?

[quote name='72deluxe' timestamp='1444296147' post='2881901'] Has anyone got their avatar printed on credit cards or bank cards? That would be good. Some banks offer that these days. [/quote] But then I'd have to change bank cards every 3 months…

I changed mine again. It's my fault.

Looked on eBay, but it's quite an old case, and the handle assembly is fairly sizeable: This is what it should look like: [URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/WP_20151005_13_19_25_Pro_zpsghabczi2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/WP_20151005_13_19_25_Pro_zpsghabczi2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] And this is the other side that's been 'Parcelforced'... [URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/WP_20151005_13_19_59_Pro_zpshpljbrbj.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/WP_20151005_13_19_59_Pro_zpshpljbrbj.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Anybody recommend somewhere to get replacement handles (and mount) for a 4U flight case? I'll pop sme photos up later on today with specifics etc...

f*** me, that's bad!

depends on the effect; overdrive and distortion can be voiced specifically for guitar or bass (they'll cut off all the frequencies below a set frequency, and add distortion to anything above that), as can things like envelope filters - I used an old DOD FX25 filter for a while but it just cut all of the bass out of my signal. Choruses and Phasers designed for guitar can be a bit more forgiving on bass (EHX Small Clone and MXR Phase 45 spring to mind). Bear in mind though that the much prized Boss OC-2 Octaver is technically a guitar pedal, sounds pretty good on my basses...

Nice selection there.

I find that when I'm swapping between basses the output varies somewhat, which has a knock-on effect on my pedal board - particularly the envelope filter and valve O/D unit. I'm looking at putting a small booster in my fretless to ensure parity between the outputs. Have you tried a compressor at the start of your pedal board just to level things out a bit?

EHX Bass Soul Food is an excellent budget pedal, so I'd recommend trying one of those. If you've already got an OD unit and want to keep the low end then I'd look at a blend pedal that will allow you to mix clean, un-overdriven signal with a dirty, gnarly effect, thereby maintaining your low end. Be aware though, that the studio recording you're referencing will more than likely be recorded this way (take a clean feed directly from the bass to mix with the overdriven signal) which makes replicating the sound somewhat tricky. My own personal favourite is the Dave Hall VT1 DI-EQ, but I understand that it's not a budget pedal - add a dash of the Waves R Bass plugin in the studio and it's every bass sound you'll ever need. Hard to replicate live though.

I don't mind Simply Red. I don't own any, but it's not unlistenable. My '80s were filled with Marillion, A-HA and then Anthrax and Megadeth. Good days.

Angus Young isn't.