paul_5

FWIW I'd recommend desoldering the old switch from the board whilst it's still screwed onto the case. Use a desoldering tool, or similar to get the majority of the solder off first, then undo the nuts holding the switch to the case - saves wobbling the ribbon cable about too much when removing the old one. Soldering it back in I'd look at doing this in reverse - screw the new switch in place (making sure that the lugs of the new switch line up with the holes on the daughterboard, then solder the new one in.

If it's got 6 lugs then it's a DPDT (2x3), a 3PDT would have 9 lugs. You *can* get a DPDT footswitch from Maplin, but they're cheaper (and better quality) from places like pedal parts: [url="http://shop.pedalparts.co.uk/Alpha_DPDT_Footswitch_-_Latching/p847124_14395207.aspx"]http://shop.pedalpar...4_14395207.aspx[/url] or doctortweek, (his site's been down for a while though). Ideally I'd go for the 'Alpha' brand, or what are known as Taiwan Blue, as they're much better quality than the 99p eBay specials. Whichever one you go for make sure it's a latching switch, otherwise you'll have to keep your foot on it all the time!

I don't use my big rig at home - it's all headphones until band rehearsal and gigs.

Should be a standard DPDT (double throw, double pole) or 3PDT (triple pole, double throw) if I remember - it's been a while since I fixed any EHX stuff. It's probably soldered to its own daughter-board, then connected to the main board by ribbon cable, so you'll have to be careful when moving it about. Could you take the back off and post a photograph on here?

[quote name='72deluxe' timestamp='1444296147' post='2881901'] Has anyone got their avatar printed on credit cards or bank cards? That would be good. Some banks offer that these days. [/quote] But then I'd have to change bank cards every 3 months…

I changed mine again. It's my fault.

Looked on eBay, but it's quite an old case, and the handle assembly is fairly sizeable: This is what it should look like: [URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/WP_20151005_13_19_25_Pro_zpsghabczi2.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/WP_20151005_13_19_25_Pro_zpsghabczi2.jpg[/IMG][/URL] And this is the other side that's been 'Parcelforced'... [URL=http://s1221.photobucket.com/user/paul_510/media/WP_20151005_13_19_59_Pro_zpshpljbrbj.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1221.photobucket.com/albums/dd471/paul_510/WP_20151005_13_19_59_Pro_zpshpljbrbj.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Anybody recommend somewhere to get replacement handles (and mount) for a 4U flight case? I'll pop sme photos up later on today with specifics etc...

f*** me, that's bad!

depends on the effect; overdrive and distortion can be voiced specifically for guitar or bass (they'll cut off all the frequencies below a set frequency, and add distortion to anything above that), as can things like envelope filters - I used an old DOD FX25 filter for a while but it just cut all of the bass out of my signal. Choruses and Phasers designed for guitar can be a bit more forgiving on bass (EHX Small Clone and MXR Phase 45 spring to mind). Bear in mind though that the much prized Boss OC-2 Octaver is technically a guitar pedal, sounds pretty good on my basses...

Nice selection there.

I find that when I'm swapping between basses the output varies somewhat, which has a knock-on effect on my pedal board - particularly the envelope filter and valve O/D unit. I'm looking at putting a small booster in my fretless to ensure parity between the outputs. Have you tried a compressor at the start of your pedal board just to level things out a bit?

EHX Bass Soul Food is an excellent budget pedal, so I'd recommend trying one of those. If you've already got an OD unit and want to keep the low end then I'd look at a blend pedal that will allow you to mix clean, un-overdriven signal with a dirty, gnarly effect, thereby maintaining your low end. Be aware though, that the studio recording you're referencing will more than likely be recorded this way (take a clean feed directly from the bass to mix with the overdriven signal) which makes replicating the sound somewhat tricky. My own personal favourite is the Dave Hall VT1 DI-EQ, but I understand that it's not a budget pedal - add a dash of the Waves R Bass plugin in the studio and it's every bass sound you'll ever need. Hard to replicate live though.

I don't mind Simply Red. I don't own any, but it's not unlistenable. My '80s were filled with Marillion, A-HA and then Anthrax and Megadeth. Good days.

Angus Young isn't.

[quote name='lurksalot' timestamp='1443391598' post='2874392'] As Dr Dave's , not an openining line but one of my faves I saw 2 shooting stars last night, I wished on them , but they were only satellites It's wrong to wish on space hardware I wish , I wish , I wish you'ld care [/quote] Yeah, I thought of this too - Billy Bragg is one of the best songwriters ever IMHO.

After years of monkeying about with this sort of this I've settled on the slightest amount of buzz, just enough so that it blooms whenever I dig in (often) .105" - .045" roundwound stainless steel strings. I like a nice wide string spacing too (18 or 19mm), and shim the neck if you have to.

This. Kill them, kill them all.

[b] [size=4]Always nice to see a well repaired neck break - and when I find one, I'll be sure to let you know. [/size][/b]

"I am an antichrist and I am an anarchist" Sex Pistols "Maybe, maybe it's the clothes we wear, the tasteless bracelets and the dye in our hair" Suede

Mrs_5 really rates "First I was afraid, I was petrified…"

Finished a Phase 45 clone this week. It's nice and swooshy, but not overpowering (like most phasers and flangers that I've tried). I ended up having to build a JFET matcher to measure the Vgs with my multimeter, but it's been worth it. I had to do a bit of bug-fixing on this one - turns out that the JFETs really do need to be matched...