paul_5
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Everything posted by paul_5
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Yup, what he said. If you're planning to record drums you'll probably need a soundcard with multiple inputs (probably minimum 4, unless you have a [i]great[/i] sounding room!), or you could use your Zoom as a mixer and take a stereo output from that into GB.
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I've got what I think is a Matsumoku neck on my 'bitsa' P/J/MM bass. It's from an '80s 'Yamato' P bass copy and is quite simply a joy to play. The profile is perfect for me. It's been on (I think) 4 of my bitsas, and it's going nowhere else.
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SOLD -
Ace! One of my favourite Anthrax lines ever! Nice one Chris.
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[quote name='Roland Rock' timestamp='1364315368' post='2024750'] Looks alright to me. I've seen MUCH uglier [/quote] +1. At least the pickup configuration is right...
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I'm using this one here: http://www.sabrotone.com/?p=1223 two little packets choc-full of components arrived this morning, but it'll probably be after easter when I can make any headway.
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That's nothing, I once did a gig when I was dead!
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"'sup G!" from sunny Ramsbottom.
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On hold
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Gorn I'm afraid.
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1990s Russian reissue Big Muff with an extra pot for the mid level (the Muff tone stack tends to take mid frequencies out, causing fuzz bass to disappear in the mix) and a switch for different clipping diodes. rewired with decent wire and fitted with a 2.1mm 9v power adaptor socket. Comes with wooden box too. SOLD Cheers, Paul
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I'll probably use a 3PDT switch and true bypass it.
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[i]in case[/i] you need to go a bit mental? ;-)
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The stock EHX is an ecc83, so it's got loads more gain anyway. I use 82s in mine so that I can use it as a valve pre and just have a tiny bit of crunch in the mix. I think the Mullard is a tiny bit more 'gainy' than the sylvania, but to be honest there's very little difference, especially in the mix. Still a very warm, rounded tone though.
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lovely Mullard ECC82 preamp tube, had this in my DHA, but I think I prefer the sound of the Sylvania one I've got. SOLD.
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Dunno yet. I'll be building it stock and then take it from there. What are the best mods? I'd reckon changing the input cap to let more bottom through is pretty much a moot point. It's probably best left as stock methinks...
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shame there's nothing like that for mac.
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True dat. Loads of Zappa fans blame Scott for the premature end of his final tour, but it still remains that Scott is a superb player and helped to make that incarnation of Zappa's band greater than the sum of its parts. Fluid yet razor sharp , tight playing - check. Inspired note choices - check. Brilliant improvisation alongside supportive 'accompaniment' playing - check. He might be a 'prickly' character, but he's an awesome musician.
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so anyway, I've decided to diarise my fake OC2 (faux C2) build. Step one is to prepare the board by cutting the traces where necessary. All 76 of them... I used a small screwdriver to take out the bulk of the track, and finished the edges with a little kitchen knife. At this point it's worth checking each and every cut with a meter (I used the Diode setting on mine, as it beeps when there is a short). It's time consuming and a bit dull, but it'll save you loads of time debugging the pedal when you've put everything together and it doesn't work...
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Buoyed by my recent successes in making and modding pedals I placed a big order with doctortweek.co.uk last night and will be attempting an OC2, using the same old school chips, diodes and transistors. That should make for an interesting week...
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SOLD
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roundwound scratches on fretless ebonol
paul_5 replied to steve-bbb's topic in Repairs and Technical
Squier VMJ? Nice. Looks like the previous owner was using 'fretted' vibrato technique... I've got the same sort of wear on my Mighty Mite ebanol board, so I'd be interested in any replies too. I've used 1200 paper on it before now, but that's not ideal. -
Sold. Gone. Etc.
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Note? I don't even know which page I'm on. :-(
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Saw this and thought of you, Mel,. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=iD6WEbfQuso
