paul_5

Does a ported cab need insulation?

Quite right too. 😉

Then sir, we shall have to agree to disagree. 😄

This thread’s been up a while and we haven’t mentioned Les Claypool. Primus are amazing.

Ghouls’ Night Out - Misfits

Is it me, or did Amina’s first solo was WAY better than anything else I’ve heard her play in subsequent songs? 20’24” in episode 2.

This thread has alerted me to just how many great, tasty baselines have failed to get to number 1;

I’m bingeing this at the moment whilst doing the ironing, and so far it’s not much of a comedy, but a brilliant little series. Highlight so far is their cover of ‘9 to 5’. Some good puns in there too (haram’ed and dangerous) - great but if writing!

Here's my 2pworth. ProTools isn't the be-all and end-all of DAWs, and I'm saying the as a PT user of 20 years. If I had my time again then I wouldn't have chosen ProTools; Avid (the current owners) aren't great at providing bug fixes and patches, and are focussed purely on making money via subscriptions - I have a perpetual license, but some of their plugins have stopped working until I reactivate my subscription. I think Reaper should be high on your list of DAWs - costs very little (in comparison to Cubase, Protools etc), will use any kind of plugin format (VST, VST3, AAX, AU etc...) and is ridiculously economic on CPU and RAM resources - meaning the you can do far more in Reaper before your computer starts complaining about lack of resources. If I had the time to learn a new DAW then this would be my first port of call.

13A seems a lot for a tube pedal, unless it's got proper HT in it!

A good indicator is current consumption - the vast majority of analogue pedals will be happy with roughly a hundred mA, digital stuff will a usually in the region of 500mA. Unless you’re running a valve pedal - they need lots of juice too. the obvious exception is digital delays - they can quite happily run at 40 or 50mA, but they will have delay times going into a few hundred milliseconds - much longer than analogue delays.

Looking to ‘bass-iffy’ a Klone Centaur Clone that I built on veroboard a while ago. My change in guitar playing means that I’m not really using overdrive anymore, as it’s running at 18v I might put an active DI in there and retire my DHA VT1 from active duty.

I know that I find Jazz profile necks easier to play, and therefore practice for longer - this is a good thing. For this reason I have J necks on all 3 of my basses. Electrics and pickups etc... have come and go, but they’ll always have J necks. If you’ve got the choice to tailor an instrument to make playing less of an effort why wouldn’t you?

It’ll never catch on! 😄

I think there’ll be less headroom one the resistor value increases. Of course, this is all conjecture, that’s just the simplest way to fit a ‘make it filthier’ switch!

£20 for an extra switch - it’ll just be a change of resistor to set the minimum gain of the overdrive loop.

Really looking forward to watching this when I get home from visiting family-types.

That’s a DEEP rabbit-hole!

Slayer and occasionally Lamb of God, not really found anything else up that end the spectrum that really tickles my fancy.

After being a huge Rush fan for about 20 years I borrowed a ‘70s Rickenbacker 4001 from a friend to do some studio sessions with. Plugged into my (then) Ampeg rig it sounded immense; both the engineer and myself were grinning like a pair of loons. couldn’t get on with the super skinny neck, so did the session with my Jazz. Shame.

Surely any Peavey kit is a vintage Land Rover or Toyota Hilux?

Guns of Bricks-ton - the Clash

12v dc can easily be dropped down to 9v using a 7809 voltage regulator, you’d need to invert the dc supply though, as the laptop supply would be centre positive.

I’m not likely to need to tow a car out of a ditch though- .115” for an E string?!?

More of the latter, not so much of the former, I’m a pragmatist.