paul_5

Router but with a bearing to follow the existing shape. If you have a router, that is.

Let me know when you’re ready to move them on then! 😄

Since you’ve got a router (and presumably a template) I’d make one out of either wood or plastic - do the routing first, then cut the outside, as this way it’ll be easier to clamp! Then you can paint or polish to suit your bass.

Thinnest necks I’ve played were a Rickenbacker 4001 and a Hohner B bass. Both a bit too thin for my liking.

Nope. Music lessons were exclusively classical, and I just wasn’t interested or challenged. I dropped music at GCSE. years later I went to college to do a course in music theory at night. two years after that I quit my job and went to music college. I always knew I wanted to do music as more than a hobby, but school music ‘lessons’ were more of a ‘two steps back’ rather than ‘one step forward’.

Just put a set of these on my fretless and WOW! I was a bit reluctant, due to the eye-watering price, but they are amazing; plenty of snap when I need it and loads of ‘heft’ down the bottom end.

Fixed

Not DHL - they are so bad that I’ve heard of serial killers posting bodies through DHL to ensure that they are never found.

I don’t, but then it it famous for polarising people! 😄

Zoom B1-four has s a great little unit; can be had for roughly half your budget second hand.

Marmite.

No such thing! The issue is with the inability to control it!

The V2 has is a massive improvement on the V1 - I only sold mine as something else came up for sale that I had a real gassing for.

Crackling of any sort would indicate a loose connection or dry solder joint, the fact that it disappears when you touch the strings suggests that you’ve also got a shielding problem.

A really short scale jazz bass - he’ll grow into it!! Congrats!

Ooh, we can ‘ave a fiddle about!

What other gear are you using?

Dunlop tortex .88 for me, and tortex .6 for guitar. I sweat A LOT when playing live, and tortex picks are the ones I drop less often.

I think you’re right - 10uf is too large to be anything but a power filtering capacitor, so that’s the one going to ground. the lead coming off the volume pot is the output, and that can only mean that the signal input is the grey one. edit: hopefully this will be of some use to you:

Easiest way would be to gear a multimeter across to measure continuity. second easiest is to flip the board over and see which one goes to a 10nf capacitor (with a 2.2M to ground), then a 10k resistor into an IC - that’s the input. the output of that circuit has a 100k resistor to ground on it.

Or maybe it’s a mix of the two!

https://audioplugin.deals/amplitube-svx-by-ik-multimedia-free-download/ref/11/?campaign=AmpliTubeSVX 🤘

Yup, great octave practice too!