paul_5

Listing doesn’t say anything about the relic’ing... Free p&p ‘ is it’ll fit in a Jiffy bag and go as a ‘large letter’ 😄

Meh. “Man who hasn’t made a record for 20 years is better than other, dead man” Slow news day.

I’ve got 2 custom Jazzes (one fretted, one fretless) that are ‘for me’, and a bitsa P that’s for sweaty/bawdy dep gigs. I could probably get away with just the P and my fretless, but it’s not killing anyone to have an extra bass...

If it’s just at one particular pitch then I’d say it was something loose that vibrates best at that frequency. Are there any loose parts on your bass or the amp?

I thought this was a long post on another thread, so I'm starting another one dedicated to my latest project.... I LOVE my DHA pedal, but thought that it might just be improved a little bit... I've had a play about this week with wiring a footswitch in parallel with the 'Colour' and 'boost' switches - effectively allowing me to switch them both on or off without having to bend down and flick 2 switches. To this end I've used an old 9 pin serial lead (needs 9 wires to do it properly and add an LED) and it seems to work very well. The Boost channel is required, as the 'Colour' switch adds more overdrive (a good thing) but compresses the signal which effectively reduces the output. I can also preset the 'Boost' to a second channel for parts when the whole band gets louder (and dirtier!). I've replaced the 'Boost' switch (which was originally an ON-ON toggle) with an ON-OFF-ON toggle, effectively taking the original switch out of the equation, as the part of the circuitry is a bit more complicated, and I don't want to upset anything. It’s very much at the ‘proof of concept’ stage, so I decided to run the cable through one of the holes above the tube: inside the DHA: and the tiny foot switch; much smaller than a standard o/d pedal, so takes up less room on my board, and the power for the LED is taken from the DHA, so it’s not a drain on my 9v supply. The next step will be to put ‘proper’ sockets on the pedals (and tidy up the voltage divider/current limiting resistor for the LED!) so that it can be used with a simple 9 pin lead and I don't have stuff poking out of holes in the top!

I've had a play about this week with wiring a footswitch in parallel with the 'Colour' and 'boost' switches - effectively allowing me to switch them both on or off without having to bend down and flick 2 switches. To this end I've used an old 9 pin serial lead (needs 9 wires to do it properly and add an LED) and it seems to work very well. The Boost channel is required, as the 'Colour' switch adds more overdrive (a good thing) but compresses the signal which effectively reduces the output. I can also preset the 'Boost' to a second channel for parts when the whole band gets louder (and dirtier!). I've replaced the 'Boost' switch (which was originally an ON-ON toggle) with an ON-OFF-ON toggle, effectively taking the original switch out of the equation, as the part of the circuitry is a bit more complicated, and I don't want to upset anything. It’s very much at the ‘proof of concept’ stage, so I decided to run the cable through one of the holes above the tube: inside the DHA: and the tiny foot switch; much smaller than a standard o/d pedal, so takes up less room on my board, and the power for the LED is taken from the DHA, so it’s not a drain on my 9v supply. The next step will be to put ‘proper’ sockets on the pedals, so that it can be used with or without extra switches...

Here's my current squeeze. Stay tuned for an update...

Engineer’s Thumb. The ratio control is actually a lean blend, so I can use parallel compression in a single unit with a small footprint. 👍🏻

I really rate Alex’s playing, and his approach to creating great bass lines. I love playing Girls and Boys on my P bass.

These have been getting a lot of love on here recently: https://www.studiospares.com/Microphones/DI-Boxes/Studiospares-DI-BoxPreamp_458190.htm

Biro? Only if you’re confident.

That makes sense. I know very little about speakers, but that sounds about right.

First thing I’d do would be to measure the DC resistance of the p’up. Get a multimeter that’s set to read resistance (ohms) up to 20k and put one probe on each of the wires. pickups can vary wildly between 6 or 7 up to 15 or 16. Generally the greater the resistance, the louder the pup is.

Mine runs compressor, octave, envelope filter, then various dirt boxes and finally chorus and phaser.

Welding nozzle cleaners do exactly the same job for a whole lot less money!

Led Zeppelin at Live Aid...

I have to say that I didn’t really notice anything wrong with them when I fired them up at bedroom volume. I bought the cab because the dimensions were about right for a 12” driver I have, so the plan is to make a new front baffle and put that in with the 12”. I rarely gig with an amp now, so it’s not really too critical what it sounds like as a finished product.

This. It removes not only the annoying scratchy sound, but also the nagging doubt at the back of your mind that it’ll crap out again on a gig.

Mine too. I use the ‘clean guitar’ Headphone amp, as I use it for guitar too, but the fender Bassman preset is great middle ground. It does need turning up a bit (depending on which headphones I’m using), but it’s great for the money.

I’ve had an original Hartke Bass Attack, MXR M80, Aguilar Tone Hammer, Sansamp V1 and 2, Behringer BDI21, briefly a Harley Benton bass expander and a couple of DHA VT pedals. I have to say that the only one I’ve come back to is the Dave Hall stuff. I had a VT2 DI EQ but am currently sporting a VT1 DI EQ and loving it as both a preamp into my power amp and my home headphone amp.

Thanks so much Bill.

Hi all. I recently bought a 2x10” cabinet with replacement drivers. These are supposed to be EBS drivers, but I don’t know much about them. Any other BC’ers able to positively (or otherwise) identify them?