paul_5

Playing mostly fretless, do I say yes or no?!?

Change your volume pot to a 500k log instead of a standard 250k log - that’ll brighten ‘er up.

At least it’s true bypass.

Yeas, NOBODY looks good playing a Steinberger.

Yup, I’d connect the hot and ground to the 2 input lugs. What I’d do is to use the wires from the header connector and attach them to your pickup wires instead of soldering to the connector pins. Alternatively you can desolder the connector pins on the volume board and solder your pickup wires there instead. I’d also check for continuity with a multimeter between the ground connection and the 2 solder points that you’re using - easiest way to find out which one goes where.

Make sure the weight of the tone arm is adjustable and that the cartridge and stylus can be replaced, a stylus with too much weight on it will plough it’s own furrow in your vinyl.

I once ran my fretless Jazz into a fender deville -‘‘twas a joyous experience!

I’ve been so high I was hallucinating whilst listening to a Joe Satriani track - I focussed on the reverb and saw the band playing inside of an empty swimming pool. wow man.

Don’t know about the value, but SX basses are great basses; really well made and they play and sound amazing for the money.

Most un-grunge.

Me too. I’ve got a compressor on my board, but it’s just there to compensate for changes in signal level when changing pickups/basses.

Mine’s a late 2011 i7 with 16GB of ddr3 RAM and an ssd, so it’s already obsolete!! check on the minimum operating system for the current version of GarageBand though, as you can’t rollback to an older OS than the machine was built for. SSD is the single best upgrade for an ageing Mac.

Let me know when you do and I’ll try low-balling you!

DI is essential for plugging into a PA or desk for providing a balanced signal with the correct impedance. Multi FX are great for making awesome space noises and such. Some fx units will provide a line level signal, which is louder than standard bass/fx pedal outputs, which might be the right impedance, or balanced, or not. I think the original Zoom B3?has a dedicated DI output as well as a normal 1/4” output, so that might be worth looking at.

Also watch out for plug-ins that hog all of your resources; I’m running Pro Tools, and every time I load up kontakt player it gooses my system. I’ve had to remove it from my plug-ins folder, as even having it in there and unloaded slows down my machine, it works ok in Cubase though.

A good quality compresser, eq and reverb are pretty much all you need.* *as well as IR cab simulators, pianos, synths, bitcrushers, drum machines and drum kit emulators, delays, samplers, multi band compressors, distressers etc....,

Listing doesn’t say anything about the relic’ing... Free p&p ‘ is it’ll fit in a Jiffy bag and go as a ‘large letter’ 😄

Meh. “Man who hasn’t made a record for 20 years is better than other, dead man” Slow news day.

I’ve got 2 custom Jazzes (one fretted, one fretless) that are ‘for me’, and a bitsa P that’s for sweaty/bawdy dep gigs. I could probably get away with just the P and my fretless, but it’s not killing anyone to have an extra bass...

If it’s just at one particular pitch then I’d say it was something loose that vibrates best at that frequency. Are there any loose parts on your bass or the amp?

I thought this was a long post on another thread, so I'm starting another one dedicated to my latest project.... I LOVE my DHA pedal, but thought that it might just be improved a little bit... I've had a play about this week with wiring a footswitch in parallel with the 'Colour' and 'boost' switches - effectively allowing me to switch them both on or off without having to bend down and flick 2 switches. To this end I've used an old 9 pin serial lead (needs 9 wires to do it properly and add an LED) and it seems to work very well. The Boost channel is required, as the 'Colour' switch adds more overdrive (a good thing) but compresses the signal which effectively reduces the output. I can also preset the 'Boost' to a second channel for parts when the whole band gets louder (and dirtier!). I've replaced the 'Boost' switch (which was originally an ON-ON toggle) with an ON-OFF-ON toggle, effectively taking the original switch out of the equation, as the part of the circuitry is a bit more complicated, and I don't want to upset anything. It’s very much at the ‘proof of concept’ stage, so I decided to run the cable through one of the holes above the tube: inside the DHA: and the tiny foot switch; much smaller than a standard o/d pedal, so takes up less room on my board, and the power for the LED is taken from the DHA, so it’s not a drain on my 9v supply. The next step will be to put ‘proper’ sockets on the pedals (and tidy up the voltage divider/current limiting resistor for the LED!) so that it can be used with a simple 9 pin lead and I don't have stuff poking out of holes in the top!

I've had a play about this week with wiring a footswitch in parallel with the 'Colour' and 'boost' switches - effectively allowing me to switch them both on or off without having to bend down and flick 2 switches. To this end I've used an old 9 pin serial lead (needs 9 wires to do it properly and add an LED) and it seems to work very well. The Boost channel is required, as the 'Colour' switch adds more overdrive (a good thing) but compresses the signal which effectively reduces the output. I can also preset the 'Boost' to a second channel for parts when the whole band gets louder (and dirtier!). I've replaced the 'Boost' switch (which was originally an ON-ON toggle) with an ON-OFF-ON toggle, effectively taking the original switch out of the equation, as the part of the circuitry is a bit more complicated, and I don't want to upset anything. It’s very much at the ‘proof of concept’ stage, so I decided to run the cable through one of the holes above the tube: inside the DHA: and the tiny foot switch; much smaller than a standard o/d pedal, so takes up less room on my board, and the power for the LED is taken from the DHA, so it’s not a drain on my 9v supply. The next step will be to put ‘proper’ sockets on the pedals, so that it can be used with or without extra switches...