gilmour

[quote name='Doddy' post='160894' date='Mar 20 2008, 04:05 PM']I'm going to have to slightly disagree,as I love playing on my own and practicing. As great and important as it is to actually play with others there is so much to be done when playing alone. I don't see any reason to get bored when playing to slower tempo backing tracks. Concentrate on things like note lengh and vibrato,or try substituting the root for other chord tones. There's no end of things you can try to keep even the slowest of tunes interesting.[/quote] I agree with the importance off all these things, they are essential for making you a better player, however I wouldn't describe it as fun or exciting, and a live setting is (usually) the ultimate goal for practicing any of these.

Roalnd CUbe, 30W It's a little more expensive than other practice amps but is great, and it has an amp modelling section (including 'stadium 8x10) Great practice amp.

I've been playing the same bass since '98 and just replaced my amp after the last one started to get unreliable - it had been giging weekly for about 13 years. I do GAS and buy the odd bit of equipment but it rarely makes it into my live set up. It's good to know your equiomet, not only sound and feel but particular quirks etc. that will help you irn out anr little creases in your tone etc. We all spend a lot of time looking for new kit to get 'that' sound, but acctually it's all about the way you play it.

[quote name='David Nimrod' post='160528' date='Mar 19 2008, 10:21 PM']There's your problem... bass really needs to mesh in with drums etc. The feeling of locking in with a good drummer in a real groove is like, Sex? As good as, anyway Get together with some other musicians and it'll all be exciting again.[/quote] a big +1 I find bass pretty boring to play at home or on it's own, the joy of the practice is in playing with others, when you sense that you're on that groove together ...

5 pints and a shot of tequilla should sort it

i've got the WT405 - and it's awesome, looks great, sounds great. gives areally clean accurate reproduction of you bass tone

Good Job, That look like really nice clean work I think all the 1016 piezos in the country are sitting in house of various BFM builders around the country (me included) I know that Dave Perry has just built a wide O10 with an 8 tweeter melded array, he's really pleased with thte results. Have a butchers on Bill's forum or Finnbass for his build diary. There's also a Dutch builder who's making some DR280's - he had 96 Piezos to meld into an array Keep us posted with loads of piccies please, I really enjoy other build diaries, and put off starting my O10.5 at the weekend because I was in no mood to do it in the cold. Rob

I used Trace for years, and whenever I did a gig with an Ashdown it was a disapointment. If you want a Trace sound go for a Trace, there are loads about second hand.

looks like it's getting there Alex, Are you horn loading this cab, for some reason I was under the impression you were, but looking at the pics I'm not so sure? Rob

[quote name='Soulfinger' post='154163' date='Mar 9 2008, 08:28 PM']I got to try this unit recently and was very disappointed. No real volume and a very indistinct, muddy sound.[/quote] Well, it is an Ashdown, at least it has fried itself.

I'd definatley be going for somethig with a 15" driver if you want that more traditional tone, Ferret's probably right about the Ampeg. That said I'm surpised the Marshall lacked power, I always thought they were pretty loud?

Depends really. Most cabs are just boxes with a hole in the front, it's not much work to make them, and depending on the woods you use may work out cheaper.

I seem to remember hearing something years ago about vibration and bass frequencies, and this being why a seperates system is better than a combo. But the guy going on about it was a drummer, and it didn't make much sense. Any thought anyone?

[quote name='david_l_perry' post='151586' date='Mar 5 2008, 10:49 AM']..as long as you are using any standard speaker cable it does make no audible difference at all.....[/quote] That's what I took Oxbloods post to mean, basically as long as you use a proper speaker cable it's fine. But good to understand the mechanics behind it. I think I caused confusion where I was trying to hlep *doh* - I am suitably chastised! [quote name='Merton' post='151588' date='Mar 5 2008, 10:53 AM']I love going to rehearsal rooms where an amp is connected to a cab with a patch lead. That's fun.[/quote] I'm ashamed - I have actually done this - Again I chastise myself R

[quote name='Merton' post='151521' date='Mar 5 2008, 09:13 AM']It doesn't matter, but it makes more sense to do it from both amp outputs. If you daisy chain, the first cable takes ALL the power down it, if you use both amp outputs, the power is split evenly across the two. There was a post by Oxblood or someone explaining this in terms of two bits of elastic and it makes sense, but I can't find it now....[/quote] Here you go, different forum though [quote name='Oxblood']...in the vast majority of modern cabs: if the cab has two sockets on the back, they'll be wired in parallel too. You feed your amp's signal into one socket (doesn't matter which) and then use the other one to pass the signal on to the next cab - it's called 'chaining'. Let's imagine our amp has two output sockets as described above, and we've got two cabs. If we run one cab off each socket, the cabs will be wired in parallel. If (for whatever reason) we decide to use only one socket of the amp and 'chain' our two cabs together, they are still wired in parallel. The only practical difference between the two setups has to do with the current being drawn by the speakers, and whether your speaker cable is hefty enough to handle it. Running one cab off each of the two amp output sockets will share the current drain equally between the cables. As soon as you chain two cabs together (to make life easy, we'll assume that both cabs are electrically identical in terms of impedance etc.), the length of cable from the amp to the first cab has to carry all the current drawn by both cabs. The cable from the first cab to the second one only has to carry half the current. Here's a way to envisage it: imagine a piece of string tied to a hook in the ceiling. Hanging from the string is a 1 kilo weight (that's analogous to the first cab in the chain). If we then attach another length of string to the bottom of that weight and hang another 1 kilo weight on the end of it, what happens? The string from the ceiling to the first weight has to be strong enough to carry 2 kilos without breaking, but the string from the first weight to the second one only has to be capable of carrying 1 kilo. Geddit? With modern heavy-duty speaker cable, however, such considerations should not be a major worry - unless you're planning an Entwistle-style multi-thousand Watt rig![/quote] Basically you are both right - just gotta make sure that your cable is thick enough (which it should be)

I don't think the idea of a moving pickup is particulary innovative - It's been done before, just not as a wiper. As far as I'm concerned the Lightwave systems are by far and away the most innovative thing in pickup design for years. Does look kinda nice though

Good good, the only person I confused was myself! There's always loads of baragains to be had here (everyone changes their equipment sooo often) and I'm sure will be in August to. If money is an issue, do 2nd hand, you'll pick up a bargain, probably a head rather than seperate pre and power amp will be cheaper.

I hope I haven't confused things, from what OBBM says, the valve pre is fine with the EPi, but make sure it isn't a valve Power Amp (if you go for the Epi) Cabs Wise there's some bargain here: These two are in the For Sale section, and IMHO both are great cabs representing great value for money, leaving plenty of money for your DHA and Power amp [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=12211"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=12211[/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=7130"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=7130[/url]

You can buy a cleaning product called 'label remover' it will remove labels (and stickers) and their sticky residue. Don't be tempted to use a green scouring pad that will bugger up the finish of your bass, instead scrape them off with a credit card or something.

That happened to me once, just as i'd walked on stage. THe strp button was the least of my worries, I was more worried about the fact that some of the electrics 'poured' over the floor from where the jack had hit the floor and rammed itself inside the body. I found the best way to repair the strap button was to use the existing screw, but i put a two part epoxy resin into the hole, let it start to set and then screwed the screw back in. Be carefull to quickly wipe of any excess though. I couldn't take the strap buttons out now even if I wanted to. If you used matchsticks/cocktail sticks I hope you did as Bass Ferret suggested and use PVA, otherwise there is a chance the same thing can happen again.

[quote name='obbm' post='150462' date='Mar 3 2008, 04:36 PM']No, no, no!!!! Valve pre-amps are fine. I used an Alembic F1X and a BBE BMAX-T with a QSC and the UL310. You mustn't use Epi cabs with valve power amps or all-valve heads.[/quote] Right Got it - I'll consider myself told! I was thinking that surely a pre would be fine.

[quote name='obbm' post='150404' date='Mar 3 2008, 03:39 PM']It's not a matter of not sounding so good, they are not designed to work with low damping factor amps. They are short throw speakers designed for use with amps with a high damping factor and consequently tigh control, which valve amps can't do.[/quote] Interesting, Thanks OBBM. Just thought it was an important point to note as karlbbb is thinking about a DHA Preamp (IIRC all DHA stuff is Valve driven) with an Epi cab.

I've heard that the Epifani stuff doesn't sound so good with Valve pre/power amps. Is that the case, do any of you run an Epi with a vlave amp?