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john_the_bass

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Everything posted by john_the_bass

  1. I've got a 90s Silver Series Jap Squier which is very good but not as good as a USA or Mexican guitar and had a useless pickups until I replaced them with one of those 40 quid Wilkinson loaded pickguards from Axesrus, which improved it no end. You should still be able to pick up a Korean Squier from the 90s for less than £100
  2. Always used my ABM 300 and ABM mini 15 for gigs. Always did the job for me.
  3. Pitchblack - I had two TU-2s on two boards and I've got rid of them for a Pitchblack - much better, quicker to track and more accurate IMO.
  4. [quote name='farmer61' post='469424' date='Apr 22 2009, 11:22 AM']Standing ticket at Brum tomorrow, can't wait![/quote] My bro has just emailed to say he has a spare and would I like to go?! Not sure I can be arsed really. NOT!
  5. Anybody? Quite happy to split them up if anybody is interested?
  6. [quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='468486' date='Apr 21 2009, 01:54 PM']I was thinking similar things myself. The reason why they ask for a "classic Precision sound" is that it saves them a lot of effort tweaking your bass to sound like a "classic Precision". S.P.[/quote] When we went into the studio to record several songs, I brought my P with me to record this song - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=attach&type=post&id=3888"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?act=attach...ost&id=3888[/url] as I thought it would be just the right instrument for the job. P bass strung with half rounds, tiny bit of dirt on the amp - got to the mixing stage, "right", says the engineer bloke, "let's make that sound a bit more modern"
  7. When I was thinking of letting go of just one of my basses, it would probably have been my 'Ray. OK, so the Precision does pretty much one thing, but it's one thing that seems to fit in with most styles of music - it's just there, it doesn't need to cut through to be heard (or felt). Some of you may disagree, but a P has always worked for me in the bands I've been in.
  8. Just wondering if you have a cleaning regime for any of your gear (not to sound totally OCD). And I don't mean stripping them down and polishing every individual component before you put them back on, I mean wiping the greasy fingerprints off with a cloth or giving a rosewood board a scrub with a bit of lemon oil now and again to get the crud off.
  9. I've played plenty of cheap gear that I thought was perfectly adequate. The only possible exception I can think of is the Behringer stack I used at a gig once, that was frankly bloody awful. There's an idea that a good musician can get a good sound out of any old tut - I'm not saying that I'm that great, but that's always stuck in my mind and I've always been able to get an acceptable sound out of any gear I've used - from the sort of budget stuff you see in some rehearsal rooms to high end rigs and instruments. It comes down to personal taste at the end of the day - I don't like a particularly hi fi sound with an electric guitar or bass, so haven't especially liked some of the amps that produce hi-fi sounds, but I love it with an acoustic guitar and like what the AER amps do. Sadly I can't afford one!
  10. We have the following leads surplus to our requirements as a band at the moment and thought we'd get rid of them to buy some recording time or something. * 12 XLR (mic) Leads. Lengths ranging from 12ft to 20ft.. 10 of them are taped into a loom but can easily be split into individual leads * 7 Speakon - Speakon speaker leads. Each is 20ft. Theses have been taped into 2 looms of 3 leads (used to run the speakers, we had tops mids and subs left AND right.... a ball ache) and a single spare. * 1 Speakon to Jack lead. 20ft * 5 Jack to Jack jumper/patch leads. * 2 1ft XLR leads. * 2 Male XLR to Jack leads. * 6 Phono to Phono leads. * 1 Phono to Jacks lead. * 1 20ft Jack extension lead. Not sure if we want to split them and they come in two of those aluminum cases (like a chunky briefcase, you know the sort of thing). These were used to connect up our very large PA, which we no longer have. From memory I think the XLRs are all Shure branded also. I have a rough idea how much this lot would cost if you went into a shop to buy it. I think, based on the lengths, types of connectros and the number of leads, £200 to include the cases and delivery in the UK would be a fair price. Please drop me a PM if you would like more info, want to make and offer or disagree with my price!!
  11. Fair play to them - personally I've never had an issue and I use right angled ones exclusively I think
  12. I think the seller has been on the Kestrel.
  13. I'm having a continued clearout of stuff I haven't used and am unlikely to in the near future. Marshall Supervibe SV-1 chorus - stereo chorus with a sort of vibrato thing. £20 + £4.00 postage BYOC Large Beaver fuzz - Triangle era Big Muff clone. I bought it built, it never really worked properly so I sent it to e-fects.co.uk to be looked at and was told it was soldered together by somebody who wasn't very good at soldering. I managed to source a complete set of innards from the BYOC distributor in the UK and sent it back to e-fects who built it for me, so it now works perfectly and has been pro-assembled I guess. £45 + £4.00 postage Keeley modded Boss SD-1 - I think this is the 5 star mod with the diode switch which seems to give a fair boost - I wouldn't sell it, except it's not on my current pedalboard and I could do with the cash. The op amp chips are fitted in a socket which allows you to swap them around for different tone - it currently has an RC4558 chip, which is what went into original TS808s, and the standard chip in the spare socket if you want to switch it over. I will also send the 3 different op amps which you can try out for different sounds. Never used this with bass so no idea what it would be like. £70 + £4.00 postage Boss BCB-3 pedalcase - this is the original made in Japan version with the metal hinges. 100% intact (ie no broken clips) - I doubt that as an MIJ version it's worth anymore than the new BCB3 - let's say £30 - I had to send a BCB30 back to Boss for repair once and I think it cost me about £6.00 - so I'll set that as postage cost and refund the difference if there is any. Boss PSA240 - 240v Boss power supply. £20 + £3.00 postage Fender 12' lead - this is one of the Fender Gold cables (it could even be a Platinum, but I'm pretty sure it's Gold). No idea whether it's for guitar or bass, but I used it for both and it was ok. About £25 new - £13? £3 postage Fender 8250ML 45-110TW (taperwound) - these are the ones you can string through and the tapered bit sits on the saddle (E string) - £12 + £1.50 postage HH Invader 12" speaker - Took this out of my Laney guitar combo, think it's rated to 70w. It's a heavy bugger so £30 + £10 to ship it. I think that's the lot for now. Most of it formed part of my bass rig, which now I am bassless, is sort of unused and I use OBBM leads these days, so whilst I should probably keep the Fender lead, I've still got some spares and they all take up room! PM for more info
  14. I think I have a very limited window at the moment where I could say yes. Who knows what's around the corner though
  15. If your only experience of playing a P is a not particularly recent one, then try one of the newer models with the rolled fingerboard edges - they do make the neck feel a bit thinner and more manageable. I've always preferred Precisions to Jazzes, I much prefer the tone of a P Bass
  16. [quote name='josh3184' post='454411' date='Apr 4 2009, 11:25 PM']MusicNan? Anyhoo, the wipes are pretty good, I've used them on a MM neck in the past and it didn't damage it as far as I could see.[/quote] [b]M[/b]aple [b]N[/b]eck. Simon - I didn't fancy going down the wire wool route, but somebody had mentioned that if you use 0000 grade wire wool (or whatever the finest stuff is), it wouldn't scratch glass so it would be safe to use. The other thing I've seen on the MM forums is a recommendation to use Murphy's Oil Soap, but you can't get it over here.
  17. Mart - did you have any light/dark patches where the fingerboard had got dirty in the spaces between the strings - I whipped the strings off and gave the fingerboard a wipe with a - er - wipe and a rub over with some kitchen roll I think - can't get the fingerboard to a uniform colour - just the light/dark thing.
  18. That the pickups have hex key pole pieces suggests they're DiMarzios - I think that was one of their identifying features (although I don't doubt that another pickup maker has done the same).
  19. I just found this link [url="http://www.ernieball.com/forums/music-man-basses/31904-how-clean-maple-board.html#post505100"]http://www.ernieball.com/forums/music-man-...html#post505100[/url] which is a post from somebody within EBMM saying that they have switched to Wonder Wipes at the factory for all fingerboards. I have to say that I was slightly concerned because I have heard about using citrus oil on maple boards - indeed my own Squier Strat got a fairly severe lemonoiling from me dad, which has taken off a fair bit of lacquer but giving it a slight reliced look I suppose, but I will try these WWs and see what they're like - I think sparingly is the word of the day.
  20. Did you a First Act Lola for £50? They're still £150 on their website and that's reduced from £300. I might see if I can get one for £50! Edit: I see - there's a cheaper one with a single pickup - still, good buy!
  21. I am parting with my Stingray on Sunday and before I do, I would like to give it the once over, just so it's shiney and sparkly for it's new owner The maple fingerboard shows up the dirt a bit (I found it always did from day 1) and I'd like to get it cleaned up - I've never oiled it personally, but I've seen the EB brand conditioning wipes and wondered if they are any good and if I should try and find a shop tomorrow that sells them. Anybody used them or do you have any recommendations to get the muck off? It's not heavy soiling or anything like that - to be honest a damp cloth would probably sort it, but should I be applying damp cloths to unfinished wood?
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