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john_the_bass

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Everything posted by john_the_bass

  1. Red Onion Loop sold pending funds
  2. Now then, I've tidied up my board a bit this evening and I've got stuff surplus to requirements. [b]Red Onion Solutions A/B selector[/b]: It's an A/B router switch and as such has one input and two outputs, however you can turn it round and have two inputs and one output, it's just the stickers on the case that say "in" and "out". These are £26 new from red onion + p&p plus I added LEDs, a 9v socket AND a battery clip which added to the price. Good nick, has velcro on the botton [b]on hold pending funds[/b] [b] Red Onion Solutions Single Loop Switch[/b]: Let's you put a single loop of fx together and then switch them all off and on at the same time. Like the A/B, it's been on my board for ages, but I've never really used it. I used to switch stuff off and on with it because the pedal was a bit far away when you're trying to sing, but I've rearranged the board now so it's easier to use. Again, these are £26 new and I added 9V socket AND battery clip (one of them was an option if you wanted an LED). I think the LEDs are standard on this one, I can't remember. One's blue and one's red. [b]sold[/b]. [b]Akai Head Rush E2[/b]: Looper/delay pedal thingy. I never really worked it out to be honest. I was going to do a bit of looping in the band, but as it sticks to a tempo more rigidly than the average drummer, it never really got used. I have the instructions and [i]a[/i] power supply (I never got the original one) or it will run off a Diago or similar, but no box. Great nick, no velcro, all the feet intact. The going rate on ebay seems to be £80-90 + p&p so, [b]Sold[/b] [b]EHX Little Big Muff[/b]: Now I've finally had my Large Beaver repaired, I'm using it now rather than the LBM. I was using the LBM with guitar and I think it worked much better with bass to be honest, so I've took it off my guitar board and won't be putting it on the bass one as I already have a fuzz on there. This one is boxed, good nick, velcro on the bottom. I might even have the rubber feet somewhere.[b]sold[/b] Cheers
  3. Sod him. We had a drummer who split up a band because he "sweated too much when he drummed". Right-o
  4. I've got the Beck, Bogert and Appice version if that's any good? It is after all the best version!
  5. Which board have you got? I've just checked Diago's website and the three boards have different internal depths. I rememer my old guitarist moaning about how the top of the wah was knackering the foam in the lid when the board was shut.
  6. For those of you who have used the combination of both, is a Diago pedalboard deep enough with the lid on to fit a Wah under? I am thinking of downsizing my guitar fx board to a Diago board and want to make sure I could fit a Wah in. I've got a Diago board, but laziness is preventing me from taking the lot apart!
  7. [quote name='jakesbass' post='208753' date='May 29 2008, 12:22 PM']A really fine double bass can cost up to £60000[/quote] would YOU pay that if it was right for YOU? This is what I'm trying to ascertain. You've all seen what vintage Fenders command these days, but I wouldn't pay that for one.
  8. I think the question here is - if you found the bass that looked, sounded, did everything you want, etc - what would [b]you[/b] pay for it. Regardless of what it would be worth in 6, 12, 18 months time, regardless of what you could afford and no "money no object, if I won the lottery ideas either"! - I'm assuming everybody has a limit. Mine was originally based around what the going rate for the bass I wanted was. I always said I would not pay more than £1k for a guitar or a bass but I've tried a Martin HD28 (and ok, it's not a bass), but it does what [i]I[/i] want it to and it exceeds my personal limit. The thing is, that I'd spend the money to get the guitar. It sort of follows on from my unattainable GAS thread as well.
  9. Following on from the "Does your bass make you go Oh YES!?" thread, what would be your price limit on what you'd be prepared to spend on the perfect instrument? Would you pick up a bass, play it and believe it to be the best you had played but put it back because of the price, or would you think, "it's a small price to pay for what it is"? I thought I could never spend £1k on a guitar or bass, but I've found a guitar that has THE tone that I want but it's more money than I've ever spent on an instrument. I've flipped a load of gear so it's not unnatainable, but it's a lot! I still want it thought and I'm still prepared to pay it (with a bit of negotiation).
  10. I would have thought most Rockabilly/Psychobilly slappers would have a piezo on the bridge and another on the fingerboard just to pick up the slaps. If you've not got the fingerboard piezo, how are you going to pick up the clicks?
  11. Which ones have you got? I've had a set of ENR71 (I think that's the code) on my P bass for probably a year now, maybe more and never found them to be sticky at all.
  12. Enough of that Murphy! 7750 is a model of high end ETA/Valjoux chronograph movement. I know, it's a bit sad really!
  13. pm'd back. This is really sad, but does the 7750 bit of your user name have anything to do with you watch movement?
  14. Swadlincote is in Derbyshire, it's more like Burton on Trent, you could go to Leicester if you wanted to but it's a bit far!
  15. Yes I think they all had the little badge on the back even if they weren't the limited edition. The ltd ones had a special badge on which may have had some kind of mock diamond in as well as something inlaid in the top of the case. This is the USA strat I had for a short period last year - serial is 05 but it has the 60th anniversary badge on the back.
  16. OK, how does £240 ono for the guitar on its own sound? I want to keep the Hiscox for my next guitar
  17. ah yeah - we've got 3 amps although I'd considered keeping one as a back up
  18. I've not searched for PA suff because as we all know, technology moves on and I want fresh opinions. We're now thinking of replacing our PA - we have a bloody huge thing made up of 2x tops, 2x mids and 2x subs (all 4 ohm each) being run by a separate Peavey PV2600 (probably putting out 900w per side at 4 ohm) for each pair of speakers (ie one speaker per channel), with a crossover to split the various frequencies. We use a wholly unnecessary 24 channel allen and heath desk a some rack effects we've never used. We've reevaluated what we need and decided that the rig that we've got is bloody huge and unnecessary and so I'm thinking that we split it up and sell it off and replace it. What I want is your recommendations for the following: A stereo power amp so I can run a mono biamped system. Must be lightweight, around 3kw (1.5k per side) and must have a built in crossover like the peavey does Speakers - I want subs and some full range ones (I assume they need to be full range if we are getting rid of the mids). Must be able to handle 750 - 1000 watts and have be 4 ohm each if the amp goes down to 2 or 8 ohm if the min load of the amp is 4 ohms. Desk - 16 channels, preferably that can fit in the top of a 19" rack (if I can get a big rack on big castors that the front, back and the lid come off). so what do you reckon? I've got the other bits and bobs to connect it together. Also, we're going to sell off our big PA - should we split it (I think so) or try and sell it as one item?
  19. [quote name='BOD2' post='204917' date='May 23 2008, 12:51 PM']Hmmm - that question doesn't quite make sense, lol ! "Stereo" isn't really the issue here. In scenario 1 you have two amps (one for subs and one for tops). I presume you're talking about running each top from a different channel on one amp and each sub from a different channel on the other amp ? In scenario 2 you only have one amp - running a pair of tops from one channel and a pair of subs from the other. The obvious cost advantage in 2 is one less power amp. Where is the crossover for each scenario ?[/quote] Yes! The crossover is built into the amp, we have one of these [url="http://www.peavey.com/media/pdf/manuals/pvamps_2004_manuals.pdf"]http://www.peavey.com/media/pdf/manuals/pv...004_manuals.pdf[/url] Actually, we've got 3 of these, one runs the tops, one runs the mids and one runs the subs - one channel runs each speaker. It's overkill at times hence we want to be able to run the subs from channel A (for example) and the tops from channel B. To do this, we run one output from the desk rather than left and right. Huge Hands post makes me think that it doesn't matter a bugger whether it's mono or stereo
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