thebrig

[quote name='Musicman20' post='1131704' date='Feb 17 2011, 11:34 PM']Maybe it's just for European Distribution?[/quote] I had a problem with my shuttle that seems to have cleared up now. But the guys in the shop said that if it re-occurs, rather than take it back to them (100 mile round trip), because they are distributed by Fender UK, I could send it direct to them in East Grinstead, West Sussex.

[quote name='bartelby' post='1131590' date='Feb 17 2011, 09:45 PM']Briefly. Set up 2 condenser mics to record the whole band for a couple of tracks. It's a little confusing to use to start with, but that would change with use. The sound quality is bloody good. We were due to do a proper recording session with it next week, but the drummer has quit so we're regrouping... If you want one, get one they're good![/quote] Cheers!

[quote name='bartelby' post='1097423' date='Jan 21 2011, 01:04 PM']The guitarist in my band bought the R24 last week, we'll be trying it for the first time a week today. Tonight's rehearsal is for a gig tomorrow night. I'm trying to get him to bring it tonight anyway, so we can at least give it a try...[/quote] Did you try the R24? I'm eager to hear your thoughts on it, as I'm thinking of getting one too.

[quote name='Bloc Riff Nut' post='1131422' date='Feb 17 2011, 07:06 PM']what about this little beauty;- M-Audio Fast Track Ultra 8r [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M-Audio-Fast-Track-Ultra-8R-USB2-0-audio-interface-/250743726501?pt=Midi_Controllers&hash=item3a617da1a5"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/M-Audio-Fast-Track-U...=item3a617da1a5[/url] They say m-audio have zero latentcy ! [/quote] Just seen it at Amazon for £349. I will certainly consider it.

I have [b]Sonar 8 Producer[/b] and [b]Reaper[/b] on my computer, although I can only just about use them. I now need an audio interface, that will allow me to record a minimum of 8 tracks simultaneously. I don’t know much about recording, so would like something that is easy and straightforward to use. I would like it to have decent microphone inputs though. I have a budget of £400 maximum. All recommendations and advice would be welcome. Many thanks in advance. [b]Edit:[/b] Would I be able to use the [b]Zoom R24 Digital Recorder, Sampler, USB Interface and DAW Controller?[/b] [url="http://www.dv247.com/studio-equipment/zoom-r24-digital-recorder-sampler-usb-interface-and-daw-controller--74227"]http://www.dv247.com/studio-equipment/zoom...ntroller--74227[/url] Or the [b]Line 6 Toneport UX-8 Audio Interface?[/b] [url="http://www.dv247.com/computer-hardware/line-6-toneport-ux8--43354"]http://www.dv247.com/computer-hardware/lin...port-ux8--43354[/url] And has anyone used either of them?

[quote name='robocorpse' post='1130835' date='Feb 17 2011, 12:11 PM']Electronics grade solder has flux built in, no need for extra flux, its just as important to make sure the metal surfaces are clean before you start. Scotchbrite pads are good for this (nick one off the missus, or 99p for 3 in Tesco), and finish off with a quick wipe of IPA or meths on a tissue or cotton bud to degrease it. Don't touch any metal area you are soldering with your fingers after this point or you'll grease it again. Some cheap connectors have horrid plating that takes ages to get solder to adhere to without abrading it back to base metal, so stick to decent parts like Neutrik and Switchcraft. There is zero point paying double for the silver-loaded stuff at this level if you are just making up leads with OFC cable, a tiny bit of silver alloy in one joint will make no difference whatsoever against the hundreds of non-silver joints in every pedal, amp and factory-made cable you have in your rig. The eco friendly "Lead Free" solder is a pain in the arse as it has a higher melting point than traditional 60/40 and some smaller irons have difficulty with it on anything other than very small connections, so its no good for pots etc unless you have a decent iron of at least 20w with good heat recovery like a Weller PU, or you'll cook the plastic spindles while you wait for it to heat the joint sufficiently. That said, its getting hard to find 60/40 tin/lead solder now. The key to good lead making is tidiness of the preparation, exact cuts, careful removal of insulation so you don't lose or damage strands, neatness and order and no straggly ends or blobby solder. And a decent iron too. Antex XS25 is a good starting point, or a used Weller TCP series. Something between 20-50w with easily swappable tips. Under 20w and you'll have a hard time soldering anything bigger than a centre conductor, over 50w and you'll cook everything and won't be able to get fine tips. I think thats covered it?[/quote] Thanks for the info. I do intend using high quality connectors and cable etc. which is why I'm seeking help, and your advice certainly covers everything I need to know. Many thanks.

I'm thinking of having a go at making my own cables. Can anyone recommend the best solder to use, and where to purchase it? Might be a silly question, but do you need top quality flux as well? Thanks in anticipation of your responses.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1130447' date='Feb 16 2011, 11:39 PM']Sounds ok on the combo then. I have a separate 6.0 head and a Genz 4ohm Neox 2x12T I'm not sure who supplies the lead in this case? Mine was from BassDirect and Mark may of just thrown the lead in as a bonus because I had the £1299 deal all in including the manbag for the head and leads. (over £1600 if bought separately) Soon sorted with one of OBBM's super chunky affairs though.[/quote] I've just emailed OBBM, about making me up a couple of decent 18" cables for the Line6 wireless system, which I decided to buy while the guys were having a look at my amp.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1130024' date='Feb 16 2011, 06:28 PM']Just a quick word of caution although I doubt it's the problem in this case , The cheap speakon to speakon lead I got with mine melted at the first gig! A proper one from OBBM soon sorted it a thankfully the band I was playing with used speakons for the PA so I had a 20 metre speaker lead for 2" but it saved the day. The cheap one was a copy speakon and the cable far too thin for 600watts and the presumably already slightly loose connection just got warmer until letting go altogether. Give yours a good wiggle and that goes for all Shuttle owners [/quote] My Shuttle 6.0 is the 12T combo version, so the cable is hard wired inside the cab, and then through the top of the cab, which has the cradle attached, and you you then connect the speakon connector to the head. Surely GB don't supply a cheap connecting cable on a combo costing a grand, do they? If that's the case, I might have to open the cab and replace it. Mind you, the speakon cable on mine is a real chunky affair, and looks like it should do the job OK.

[quote name='wateroftyne' post='1129975' date='Feb 16 2011, 05:57 PM']Did they do a repair?[/quote] Unfortunately or fortunately, it was fine in the shop, so nothing to repair. And it's still fine now! So, it's fingers crossed from now on, and hope it stays that way.

[quote name='phil.i.stein' post='1129986' date='Feb 16 2011, 06:06 PM']glad to hear it. result ! like w.o.t. asked, any idea what the problem was, out of interest ?[/quote] Not really. The only thing that might have had a bearing, is that I swapped out the original valve for a new one on Saturday, but still the problem existed. So I put back the original before taking the amp back to the shop, and it worked fine in the shop, and is still fine now. Maybe there was a tiny speck of dirt in the valve sockets, and it's now been dislodged. Just an uneducated guess though!

[quote name='gub' post='1129950' date='Feb 16 2011, 05:43 PM']This i like the sound of ,i could get up to alsorts with a wireless system ,used to have a radio pack for stage years ago ,late 80s but found it used to lose sound quality and hiss alot,but i am guessing they have moved on a fair bit since then ![/quote] This really is a great piece of kit! Line6 state that it is good up to 30 metres, but the guys in the shop tried it down the far end of the car park, which is about 70/80 metres away, and they still had a signal. And the beauty of the Line6, is that it is digital, meaning it will not require an airwaves license when they come into force. I highly recommend trying one if you were ever thinking about going back to wireless, and both the guys in the shop use them, and they say that they have never had a problem in over four years using them.

[quote name='gary mac' post='1129321' date='Feb 16 2011, 10:20 AM']Not the same problem as yours, mine is a crackling master volume pot. Been there from new, I think it's a fairly common issue with these amps. Most of the time it's not too bad but on occassions it really can make me, band mates and audience jump. Enjoy the trip and just walk straight to the counter without looking at the displays, if you ignore my advice it could be a very costly trip. Absolutely don't look at the Overwater Jazz [/quote] No new bass, but I did buy a Line6 wireless system which the guys in there recommended. It's great! I've been walking all around the house playing to see if I lose the signal, but it works perfectly! If you are reading this guys, the amp is still behaving itself! I've had my regular bass plugged in for around three hours, with no problems so far.

I don't normally like Mondays, but I did this week, because I had a nice little surprise from the [b]Her Majesties Inland Robbers[/b] too! A nice little cheque to the tune of [size=3][b]£1,165.07[/b][/size] And Yes! I have already spent some of it, on a nice Line6 wireless system, and it's great! I've been walking around the whole house playing my [b]wi-fi[/b] bass, and wondering what else I can get! Happy Days!!!!!!

[quote name='gary mac' post='1129214' date='Feb 16 2011, 08:26 AM']Just made the same trip to Colchester with my shuttle 6.[/quote] Was it the same problem? I might go this morning.

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1129067' date='Feb 15 2011, 11:12 PM']I use Stingrays and an active Jazz most the time both pots are at 12 o'clock. I have heard good things about GB support so I would make some calls first and see if it can all be done by post (at there expense) what warranty do we get with them? Mind you it would still count under the goods fit for purpose thing at that age although I would put the original valve back in and not mention it. Shame though no one likes a bad one (I had gAshdown trouble before) let's hope it all comes good [/quote] I changed the valve because the tech in the shop advised me, that it is probably the best thing to try first, so as I had a brand new JJ Electronic spare already, I thought I would give it a go. I still have the original Ruby, so I can easily put it back in. Reading on the Talkbass site, they do say that the Ruby is not the best of quality, so I thought it could be the problem, obviously not. Strangely, I got rid of my Ashdown rig, because I needed to go down the lightweight route due to back problems, I never had any problems with it whatsoever. Mind you, I really am really happy with the GB, it's lightweight, but it definitely delivers the goods! IMO And I hope this is something that can be sorted easily.

[quote name='phil.i.stein' post='1129041' date='Feb 15 2011, 10:48 PM']i hope you don't lose faith in the brand. i'm sure that if GB heard of your problem, they would be happy to compensate you for the problem in whatever way they could. it sounds like you have been very unlucky.[/quote] I won't lose faith, I accept you can be unlucky sometimes, and have been singing the praises of GB, to all my bass pals! I suppose every now and then, you will find a Bentley owner who's had a few problems!

[quote name='phil.i.stein' post='1129014' date='Feb 15 2011, 10:26 PM']my 12.0 has an active/passive switch in front of the preamp, marked as low/high gain, (mine is set to low for active basses) is that not the case for the 6.0 ?, my mm sterling piezo puts out a big signal, so i always keep it on low. it is an extremely well-behaved amp, so i'm not sure about your specific problem. probably best to take t back to the dealer ?[/quote] No, the 6.0 has not got this switch. Oh well, back to the shop, it's only a two hour round trip (M25 then A12), two of my favourite roads! Then I will probably have to do the same in a week or two's time to pick it up. The £50 I saved by buying it from this dealer, will all be lost in fuel costs. Maybe in hindsight, it's probably better to buy locally, where you can just pop in and out regularly. Maybe another good topic in the making!

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' post='1128998' date='Feb 15 2011, 10:15 PM']I have no noises other than the terrible sounds I usually create unaided I don't think the 6.0 has a db switch, Where are the preamp volume and gain knobs set to?[/quote] That's what I want to know? I've just looked, and I'm going for another look in a minute, but I can'd find it. Gain around 12 o'clock Volume 3 o'clock But would that have a bearing on the problem? If it did, surely there should be a warning about it.

[quote name='phil.i.stein' post='1128925' date='Feb 15 2011, 09:19 PM']i use a genz-benz shuttle 12.0 with my mm sterling piezo (extremely active). no problem except a crackly volume pot. check your leads/connections first, then take it to the shop. edit: i presume you have the switch set to -12db on the preamp?[/quote] I've tried every lead and cable I have, and they are all good quality. How do I set the switch to -12db on the preamp? And where is the switch? I apologise in advance if I am confirming what my avatar pic suggests! But I've just had a good look at the amp, and can't see a switch anywhere, and there is no mention of it in the manual. Cheers

[quote name='geoffbyrne' post='1128852' date='Feb 15 2011, 08:23 PM']Try swapping the valve out for something else. G.[/quote] Thanks for the suggestion, but I did that before the gig Saturday, but unfortunately it made no difference.

I've had my Boss TU-3 Tuner for a year now, and has been fine until a couple of months ago. In rehearsals one night, it just would not switch on, although when you put the jack in, it lights up for a second or two. But it will not switch on when you press the switch. I took it back to Digital Village in Barnet, and they sent it back to Roland, within a few days it was sent back to the shop, because the engineer could find nothing wrong with it. The shop tested it again, and sent it straight back to Roland because it still was not working. Roland then called the shop to say there was nothing wrong with it, the shop called me, and I asked the engineer to call me personally. He did and told me that it does not have fault and was returning it to the shop. When I collected it, we tried it out in the shop, and sure enough, it WAS working, so I took it away with me. This was a couple of weeks ago, and has been OK in the couple of rehearsals we did. But then, disaster! Plugged in at the start of our gig on Saturday, same problem! And like an idiot, I had no back-up, so had to quickly plug in to the guitarist's tuner, luckily, my bass stays in tune very well so got through gig OK. Obviously, it's now going back again. [b]My questions are:[/b] [i]Anyone else had the same problems with the Boss TU-3 Tuner? Should I now insist that they replace it? as it certainly is not reliable. Is a cheaper tuner just as accurate? And if I have to bite the bullet and get another brand, what would you wise people recommend? [/i]

I've had my [b]Genz Benz Shuttle 6.0 12T Cab[/b], plus [b]Genz Benz 2x10 matching cab[/b], for just under a year, and I'm very pleased with it, it's lightweight and great sounding. But over the last couple of months I've noticed loud bangs and some rumbles every 5 or 10 minutes or so. Today, I spent some time with various basses plugged in, to see whether it was my regular bass that was causing the problem. I use a [b]Ibanez SR500[/b] for rehearsals and gigging, which is when it comes to my attention, because I use a small Roland cube at home with no problems at all [b][i]Here's what I found[/i][/b]: [b]Ibanez SR500[/b] - Regular banging and rumbles. [b]Warwick Corvette Ash[/b] - Regular banging and rumbles, although not quite so bad. [b]Warwick Corvette Bubinga[/b] - No problems at all. [b]Home-made Jazz Fretless[/b] - One very loud bang, so unplugged immediately. The three basses that caused problems are all ACTIVE. The [b]Warwick Corvette Bubinga[/b] is PASSIVE. I'm no engineer, but it seems that the [b]Genz Benz[/b] is struggling with the active basses, and I'm going to try my [b]Musicman Sterling[/b] (ACTIVE) tomorrow,and if the bangs and rumbles are there too, then obviously, the amp doesn't like active basses. Has anyone else encountered this problem with the [b]Genz Benz[/b], or any other amp for that matter, and what is the solution? Any help would be much appreciated.

[size=2][size=3][b]First Bass Owned:[/b] Early 60's Burns Sonic (4-string) [b]'Go To' Bass:[/b] Ibanez SR500 (4-string) [b]'Your' Bass:[/b] Warwick Corvette Passive Bubinga (4-string)[/size][/size]

I started a thread on here a while back, about my search for a lightweight bass, after years of back, neck and shoulder problems. I have a Warwick Corvette Bubinga that weighs 11.5 pounds, and although I love it to bits, it was causing too much pain. So I had to consider getting a lighter bass or give up playing. I tried loads, and could not find anything I liked as much as the corvette. But I then saw a Ibanez SR500 on Gumtree for £250. I've picked one up in shop, but never played one, but I do remember it being incredibly light! As this one was immaculate and virtually unplayed, I thought I would take a chance on it, and if I don't get on with it, I would probably be able to sell it on at a profit anyway. I went round the sellers house, tried it, and I new immediately that this was a bass that I like the feel of, and a tone to die for. IMO Used it last night for the second live performance, and it is absolutely fantastic. Fastest and most comfortable neck I have ever played, rolled edges and can't feel the frets at all. I loved the prestige of playing a Warwick, and will never sell it, because I do pick it up at home, but for me, the SR500 is well made, plays great, looks great and has the tone that I adore and is very, very flexible! And crucially, it weighs in at a fraction over 7 pounds, and I am now much more expressive on stage, without worrying about the weight. I know everyone looks for different things in a bass, but for me, this is one incredible bass for £500 new, or £250/£300 s/h. It's now my favourite bass, and will be looking for another s/h, as a back up.