Matt P

This is my solution, the end shelf is supported on the right hand end by the IVAR shelving and has a solid connection back to the wall on the left, there's also a pair of support beams running left to right, this was mainly because the gap was longer than the standard shelf would be, the shelving actually runs the whole length of the room and is flush against the far wall, putting in the fixed shelf on the end gave me one extra case-width (so 2 extra spaces) The radiator is set to almost off and i have a remote thermometer in the end part of the shelving to keep an eye on heat. At some point we will be moving and i've got plans for an extended version of this shelving with space for more cases as the current setup doesn't accommodate all of them. It's fairly obvious which brand of cases i favour! the standard 80cm width shelves are actually 80cm between uprights, not quite enough space for 6 Hiscox cases but slimmer cases should fit 6 across, this would give space for 12 cases in an overall width of 89.5cm, you'd need at least 2.6m floor to ceiling though Matt

I'm using the Ikea Ivar shelving system, slightly modified and securely bolted to the wall, If i can make the room look presentable i'll get a photo. I'm currently up to 20-odd instruments, with hard cases for most of them (not all basses though and uke cases are much easier to store) being able to store vertical makes them easy to get to, usually i have a few instruments out on hangers/stands and the rest are safe in their cases ready to go out for gigs etc. i've got shelves to hold boxes for leads etc in there as well. Matt

for anyone looking for a Radial Stagebug, one has popped up in the Classifieds HERE, I have no affiliation to the seller but they have a good reputation on here. I was tempted but I think i 3 radial di boxes is enough for now. Matt

If you shop around a bit you should be able to find the radial ProDi or a stagebug SB2 secondhand, that's what I did, managed to get a pro and 2 stagebugs used for the well under price of a new JDi (i think about £50 each?) the build of another pedalboard means i'm on the lookout for another SB2 as well Matt

I've just had my mk4 serviced by Martin @Stoneham they might have some useful information? Matt

i'm a klotz fan, bought some ready made ones 20-odd years ago and they lasted very well, i'm now making my own with Klotz AC110 and Neutrik plugs, I've got a few made with Van Damme as well and it's up there for quality (and more flexible than the AC110) the suggestion for using @Chienmortbb is a good one, they have taken over from obbm for custom made leads (my speaker cables are all obbm-made) for XLR I would suggest Lynx, I've had a few from them when i've needed something i've not had the supplies to make myself and they've been top notch. @Owen's question about coiling and storage is an important one, even the best cable hasn't got a chance if it's not properly looked after, and I've had cheap cables last very well with careful handling. Matt

i've owned 2 fretless basses in the past but never used them live, the first was/is a Aria cardinal medium scale that a previous owner had de-fretted, I never used it so i had the frets put back in, (i've still got this one as it's a YOB bass and i really like it), the second was a squier fretless jazz that i took as a trade for an amp, It never left the house so i traded it for a squier mustang. at some point i'm sure i'll buy another fretless but it will probably not get used and be sold on (i'll not learn!) Matt

I can't really comment on the cases you have listed but for me the obvious choice would be a Hiscox liteflite case, you'll not get a new one in your budget but they're not hard to find secondhand and on a weight vs protection ratio I don't think there is anything better, personally i've got 12 of them and many were bought secondhand, some for as litlle as £30 a wanted ad on here would probably find you one, alternatively i've had good luck on facebook marketplace and ebay, as you're in London you've got a good chance of finding one. Matt

no idea about the threaded hole in the speaker, i guess it could be a securing screw for the magnet cover but I thought these were usually glued on, is the cap loose? from the picture it looks like the thread is in the cap though so that wouldn't make much sense. if there was supposed to be a screw there then i'd expect it to be stuck to the magnet or loose somewhere in the cab. is this an issue that has appeared over time? Matt

you just need to get to the front of the speaker, it should be possible to gently use your fingers to see if anything is loose, a soft artists paint brush would work as well, it should be obvious if something isn't attached. go gently and you should be fine.

I've just listened to the recording, have you checked the dustcap in the centre of the speaker? it sounds to me like something physically vibrating and if you've been through the physical connections then this would be my next thing to check. if it is the dust cap then it might just need a touch of adhesive to fix it.

I'd have to suggest the same thing, the best speaker for that enclosure would be the one that Markbass designed it for, Failing that then if you can take measurements of the internal enclosure volume and any port areas and lengths then someone might be able to suggest a suitable replacement. matching cabinets to speakers is a science and getting it wrong will at best just sound bad and at worst damage the new driver. I made the mistake of buying some speakers with the intention of building some cabs without doing enough research beforehand and ending up with completely the wrong speakers and no chance of building a suitable cabinet that would fit in the space i had. Matt

I actually own 3 more of the same mic (Red5Audio RV8) all of them working, i'll have to have a look and see how easy swapping the capsule is, i've been meaning to inspect the circuit as well, my guess is either a bad solder joint or maybe a blown capacitor, i've got a feeling it's all surface mount though so beyond my soldering skills. maybe this is a good opportunity to build a replacement circuit for it. Matt

i'm watching this, I got a dead condenser mic in a deal a while back (as an addition to a working one) as the housing is in nice shape i'm tempted to build something from it. I've looked at the capsules that Thomann sells as replacements for the T-bone mics, they have good reviews but that's often not a true representation of how good they truly are. is there a good way to test the capsule? i don't know if it's the capsule or the circuit that is dead in mine so it would be good to determine either way. Matt

chipped in, it's stuff like this that just reinforces my belief that bass players are the best people in the world. Matt