Matt P

i'm not sure about the G10 but all the others (as far as i'm aware ) it is selectable, the G30 has 6 channels and the others have more (possibly 12) one thing to note, If you are planning to mount on a pedalboard and use a different power supply then they need an isolated supply and quite a bit of current (the G30 ran happily on a 240mA connection (doubled current cable on a Harley benton power plant junior), the G50 needed more so i'm using a 500mA connection now (Fame DC Junior) Matt

I started with a Line6 G30, never had any issues with it, leant it out to a friend for some Christmas shows and they pestered me to sell it, at the same time a G50 popped up in the classifieds at a great price so i sold the G30 and bought the G50 I haven't had any issues with the G50 either, i used it at church quite a lot and they are using the Line6 wireless Mics (5 of them) and there were no issues (just find a free channel and off you go). I briefly borrowed a smooth Hound system and just couldn't get on with it, I really don't like the bug style transmitters and the fix using a coupler and a cable didn't work for me either. Line 6 do sell the transmitter separately, but they seem to be out of stock. A cheaper option might be to buy another secondhand set and put the spare receiver in the cupboard as a spare (or sell it to someone that has 2 different pedalboards and wants another receiver.) Matt

no 2 basses of mine have the same strings, My '77 p-bass has a set of very old ernie ball group flats that were on when i bought it 10 years or so ago (and were old strings then) the Letts 5 string has chromes as that was what was most easily available at the time (possibly 7 years ago? only bought one set, never felt that they needed replacing) My Aria Cardinal came with a set of status groundwounds and they are still on there (8 years?) my Swift shortscale 5 string has labella flats as there is a limited choice for shortscale 5 string flats, Dunlop or Labella. My Aria Integra shortscale has GHS precision flats as someone on here was raving about them so i thought i'd give them a try (love them) when i first started i had a Yamaha 5 string and used Dr Fatbeams, they seemed to work really well on that bass, just before I sold it i fitted some Picato flats to it which also semed to suit it well (still has them I believe as it went to a friend and they haven't changed them) for a while i had a few different basses with roundwounds and usually just fitted xl's as they are the easiest to get round here (D'addario distribution centre is just outside toon) Matt

@Downunderwonder your maths looks right to me (although it is nearly 20 years since my thermodynamics lectures at uni) the TC Electronic combo that is shown above might have a side mounted vent/fan but it also has an air gap all round the head in that enclosure so there is some ventilation for the amp (and i'm not going to mention the actual rating of that particular amp being much lower than the quoted value) I think this little 250w head is going to get rather warm and possibly shut down (assuming it has a thermal cut-out) As there is an insulating layer of wood between the amp casing and the outside world it will be difficult to keep track of how hot the amp itself is getting. Matt

my favoured method for this would actually be to fill the holes in with some 12mm dowel then re-drill with an 18mm forstner bit, (sounds counter-intuative but would guide the bit the best) A small diameter (3mm) pilot hole through would allow you to drill from both sides for the cleanest finish. Matt

I think @Downunderwonderis right, that looks ,like the igniter for the UV tube, my amp has a different one (the white cylinder in the middle picture ) if you can find one of the bases like mine has then you should eaily be able to substitute in a 110/120V equivalent. something like this would do the trick. i would follow the wiring and see where it leads, you should be able to work out if the leads go to the mains input or a tap from a transformer etc. Is this a USA market amp or has someone imported it from the UK? Matt

I hadn't actually noticed that either until @BassBod mentioned it! I don't have the right UV tube at the moment, it's actually one designed for a reptile tank, but it was very cheap and confirmed that it was the tube that was broken when i got it, i'll be ordering a proper blacklight UV tube at some point. Matt

the front mounts to a pair of wooden sections with captive/tee nuts for the front panel to bolt to, with the uv tube housing held in by a pair of very long screws from the front, the rear section is fixed with 3 bolts through the top and 3 small screws through the small flange on the rear panel. that's about it, there isnt anything else in there at all.

As promised here are some dimension (can you tell I'm an engineer and once worked as a draughtsman 😁) All dimensions are in mm and are inside with the exception of the length which is outside. Matt

certainly, I will agt it measured and make some rough sketches for you. I should have some time one evening this week. do you need to see any of the internal structure of the case? Matt EDIT - due to Illness of our lead singer/guitarist there was no band practice lat night, the next one is 2 weeks away!

welcome, i don't have much to add except that there is a dedicated sub forum for left handed bass sales on here, and if you're within collection distance there is a bargain Ibanez SR300 for sale in Winchester (no connection to the seller myself) Here My advice would be to get a decent secondhand bass (like the Ibanez) and a small practice combo for a total outlay of half your budget, then get some lessons and some practice, then the rest of the money is there if you find yourself in a band and need an amp suitable for gigging. Matt

the enclosure on my head seems to be 18mm plywood so 1/2" should give a nice weight reduction from that, i have peeked inside and the size of all the components is considerable! this head was originally the "house" amp at my church, we went over to IEM's a couple of years ago (much to my dismay) and as i had paid for all the servicing etc for the amp over the last 15 or so years it was given to me. I'm fairly well acquainted with the sound, the only reason it doesn't get much use is because i have a bad back and the F1 is considerably easier to move around! Matt

as i have now dug the Trace head out of it's hiding place i've decided that it's getting a run out on Monday at band practice, i usually use a Markbass F1 with a Barefaced Midget but this week i'll hook the Trace up to the 6x10 Ampeg cab in the practice room instead, i've never used it with this band so it will be interesting to see the reaction it gets from the band If you are having a new enclosure made i'd really suggest trying to keep it's weight down, this one in it's original housing with the UV etc weighs in at 20.7kg/ 45lb 10oz. Matt

hello, I've just come across this, I have an identical Trace GP11 AH250 head sitting here, happy to help with measurements/ photo's etc to get your amp back into usable condition. Just let me know what information you need. they are a bit of a beast of an amp, the 250W rating is nothing like how they respond on stage, i don't think i've had mine above 2.5 on the master volume (and that was wearing earplugs.) Matt

i've voted 4m as that's the length i use most often it seems the best compromise for me between enough length to let me move about and not so much that i trip over it all the time. Matt

i've not done the booking but i have travelled with a guitar in it's own seat, it was a band trip to germany (i think on Ryan Air?) each instrument had a seat and there were belt extenders for each, one of the instruments was assigned to me and the rule was that the instrument went in the window seat next to the passenger that was booked with it. as an aside, for that trip the guitarist had a small marshall combo that was small enough to be hand luggage, he just tucked his book in the back of the open backed amp. Matt

it's not quite clear from the photo but it looks like the outer nut/strap pin section isn't screwed all the way in, this would stop the jack plug from properly engaging and holding in place (as you describe) it might be worth adjusting it so that the middle threaded section is flush with the button section and see if this fixes the issue. if that doesn't sort it then i'd sugest removing the whole socket and checking there isn't a peamp or similar built into it befoere you order any parts (some systems have a buffer or preamp circuit built into the jack socket) Matt

I'm glad someone has bought that Antoria as i've been eying it up since it was first advertised! (i don't have space for any more basses at the moment) If you want to see an example of @Andyjr1515's handywork then you would be welcome to have a noodle on the 5 string shortscale that he built me Build Thread, drop me a PM if you have any questions Matt

I haven't tried them yet but i've bought a selection of the Harley benton guitar strings (including some flats for my semi acoustic). I'm looking forward to trying them out. matt

I have a Polytune on my main pedalboard (one of the first gen ones) and a polytune mini on my tiny second board, i've had brief experience of the TU-2 and didn't get on with it for some reason. the polytune wins for me as i can check all the strings very quickly with one strum (excellent for a quick check between songs) Matt

hello, as well as a new screw you will also need the little washers that go between the button (the twisty thing) and the main body of the tuner. your profile says you are in the north east of england, if you are near to Newcastle (west end not far from the west road and the A1) then i might have a sutable screw in my stash somewhere, failing that it might be posible to buy another tuner and then use one for parts to get a working one (a complete set of replacement tuners might also be an option and needent be that expensive) Matt

Anyone who tries this with my tagged location will only find a great pint of beer or a delicious curry! (or an excellent Italian meal if they wander down the road a bit.

I'm one of the numpties that managed to put myself in twice (Matt P about number 1040 ish) i picked a location that was near enough (the right city) but the exact location is a few miles from my actual lair. Matt

i've played around a little with alternate tunings on banjo and Mandolin, i found the "upside down" tuning of the mandolin a bit of a pain after years of playing guitar, i briefly tried tuning in fourths like a guitar but didn't have the money to try the custom string gauges that would have given proper tension (i was a poor student at the time) so the mandolin got sold. My Banjo is a 5 string so the tuning is far more guitar like and i found this easier. For a tenor i think i'd go for the Chicago tuning, as you already have a high E i would use one of the online string tension calculators to work back to determine the most ideal gauges for the other strings then buy the 3 to convert the current set (assuming the current strings are fresh) I've found that the tensions for many sets are all over the place, especially the g on many acoustic instruments tuned in 4ths, it's often way higher tension than the other strings. Individual loop end strings are easy enough to get, as an alternative you could contact Newtone and have a custom set made to suit whatever tuning you want (not actually that expensive) Matt

I have the roqsolid covers for my gen2 midgets, with the strap and the pocket for the grille protection (I used some very rigid foam board) I bought the covers when I got the cabs which were some of the last made before the switch to gen3. Mine have held up great, just minor fraying in the edging at the corners.