Matt P

I just peel the rubber off, there is usually a nice flat metal plate underneath ready to accept the velcro. the screws sit proud of the base but the thickness of the velcro is enough that they still sit perfectly on the board. I've got a small box full of the rubber plates, if i come to sell a pedal i just include it for the buyer so they can re-fit if they wish. Matt

I had this same issue a while back, from memory some Gator rack cases have a steel bar/plate with tapped holes that is fixed in, for that you need 10/32" X 3/4" Rack Screws. If your case doesn't have the bars then you need slide on cage nuts, Penn elcom make some M6 ones Available here and probably elsewhere you will also need some M6 pan head screws to match, and plastic washers if you don't want to mar the front of the mounted units. there are also this type but i don't have a supplier of smaller quantities to hand Amazon link Matt

I run a wireless from bass to board but when i use a cable i usually go for a 3m cable from bass to pedalboard and then either 4 or 5 from the board to the amp. most of may cables are right angle to straight, and they are all neutruik plugs and Klotz AC110 cable (all home made as i bought a 100m drum about 12 years ago and still have plenty left even after making Hifi interconnects and cables for friends.

the internal dimensions of the petrol bag are 24 cm (width), 44 cm (length), 25 cm (depth), so the nano would fit in there fine with space for cables and other stuff in the outer pockets, it has a smart LED light inside as well for rummaging for cables in the dark. Matt

I would have to double check the size but would something like this work for you? bought on here a couple of years ago but now surplus to requirements https://www.digibroadcast.com/bags-cases-rain-covers-c67/petrol-pc004-pc-004-deca-dr-camera-bag-p4172 I cant remember exactly which one i've got but this is what it looks like, can check measurements if you think it would be any good. I think i only pad about 60 for it and i'd certainly sell for a bit less to get some space back!

The PA in our band is partially owned by the band and the rest i bought myself, the shared kit was bought with gig money and the reset i sourced. It is stored split between the 3 of us, the main reason this works is that the band is just the 3 of us and we were close friends before we were properly a band, I have keys to both of their houses and they have keys to mine (this was handy last week when the drummer locked himself out and nipped over to borrow the spare key) the main reason that i bought the kit was that I've got experience of PA and when we were starting I had the spare money and time to source stuff (mostly secondhand) any upgrades or repairs are done by me too as i enjoy that sort of thing, at some point soon i'm planning to replace the 15" speakers with some 10" ones to reduce weight and make them easier to store. the total outlay on our PA isn't that high though, I've spent far more on the recording setup and it's all eclipsed by how much i've spent on my own setup.

i was originally looking for a pair of control 1's until i remembered the JPW's in the back of the cupboard. (which i think i got free when a shop was having a refit)

i'm in the Hifi amp and small speakers camp, currently a Trends T-amp and a pair of JPW Minims. there are lots of cheap T-class amps available now (the Trends isn't that cheap but i got mine secondhand) and small hifi speakers are easily available from facebook marketplace or ebay. My setup will go fairly loud and the quality is very good. I like having a single easy to reach volume control, my last setup of active speakers had all the controls on the back of one speaker and it was annoying to adjust and switch on and off as i couldn't see any of the controls. Matt

I don't think my Stagg EUB has this, did you buy it new? it might have been fitted by a previous owner to allow for mounting to a stand.

I'm definitely the band dad, and have been forever, I also used to be the PA guy at different events when i was a student (mostly with borrowed kit) so i've always had a selection of adapters and cables etc, at one point i had 3 silver cases with all the stuff in and marked them 1,2,3 so i could direct any helpers to the right case to find stuff. My band is a 3 piece made up of 3 very close friends, the drummer was best man at my wedding and I've known the guitarist almost as long. i carry strings, plectrums, spare cables, tools etc as much for my own kit as for my bandmates. I actually put together a EGC kit (Every gig carry) in a dedicated case so I know that I have all the required kit and can just grab the case and throw it in my bag and know that i have everything. I am also custodian of the Pa cables so they're all in a couple of holdalls (speaker and power in one, instrument and mic in the other)

thanks for the suggestions, I think as a first attempt I'm going to try my Trace Acoustic cube mounted on a stand to get it close enough to my head (probably with the HPF in the chain for protection) If that doesn't work then I'll look into some of the other options. All i need now is more gigs! Matt

I'm one of the guys with the Luthier built acoustic etc etc etc, but I've also helped quite a few people buying guitars in your price bracket, one of the favourites was an Aria Sandpiper, i always said that if i were to go off on tour somewhere i'd get a pair of sandpipers and leave my fancy acoustic at home. another good pick would be something by Yamaha, I have a DW-105C that was my first acoustic and it is a great guitar and i played it in church for about 10 years before i bought the fancy one. I won't suggest a particular one in the Yamaha range, just play some and pick the one that you like the most in your budget. other makes to check out would be Tanglewood, Vintage, Aria, Freshman. and if you can find one in budget then Blueridge make somne of the most impressive martin clones i've ever played, a friend has one and it's a stunning guitar for the £400 he bought it for, easily matches the martins i've played at £2k+ I find it easier to list the acoustics i've not liked over the ones i'd recommend, I've never played a Taylor that i thought was worth the price tag (and i've played them from the baby up to the 900 series) and anything with a bowl back is just totally off the list (again i've played cheap and pricey ones) Matt

@Andyjr1515 also built me a wonderful lightweight 5 string singlecut, Thread Here And made a custom replacement body for a Fender rascal as well Thread Here If you take a look in the Build diaries thread and sort by most viewed then most of Andy's wonderful creations appear in the first 2 pages! Matt

I recently played my first proper gig with my Stagg EUB, previously i've used it many times at church either with an amp behind me or more recently with IEM's. the gig was an acoustic session in a brewery and due to transport issues and timing we opted to take as little kit as possible, this gave us just a single monitor for the 3 of us (acoustic guitar, EUB and Cajon). we luckily had someone running the desk for us who knows what they are doing but i really struggled to hear myself enough. I was running into the desk via a small pedalboard (tuner, compressor, HPF, EQ, chorus, Radial Di) all the reports i got were that i sounded pretty good in the room and could be heard clearly but on "stage" i was struggling. I'm thinking that i need to sort some sort of monitor for these type of situations but whatever i decide on needs to be small and easily portable. my rig for other gigs is a Markbass F1 and a pair of gen 2 barefaced midgets but i don't want to take that as space is at a real premium. I do own a Trace acoustic Cube and was wondering if this might work with suitable eq? another option is that we have a second aux feed from the desk and a spare power amp channel so maybe a small speaker cab with just the bass? there is a PJB Earbox in the classifieds that looks like it might work, or maybe i have a go at some DIY and try to build either the 6" o 8" basschat cabs. What are the hive mind's suggestions? Ideally i'd like to keep the cost down under £200 but if i can sort something with what i have that would be great. Unfortunately at the moment we're not in a position where we can all go to IEM's and for the sort of stuff we're doing we rely on being able to hear the audience a fair bit so the isolation of IEM's wouldn't work. Matt

i'm a fan of the Wago connectors, the 221 range are the smaller ones i think, I used them exclusively for connecting up all sorts of projects. they are available in both linear and parallel versions and they are very easy to use.

hello and welcome from another north east member I think i saw this bass and amp on facebook? I'm just up the road in Newcastle, there are plenty of good techs round this way and one or two exceptional ones, feel free to PM if you want names and numbers. I don't think you can go far wrong with this combo, one thing to watch out for is that there are quite a few different variations when it comes to scratchplates so make sure whatever you order says explicitly that it will fit the affinity p-bass or you might find you need to drill new holes in the body to get the screws to line up. I'd also suggest getting some in-person lessons, even if it's just a few to get your technique/hand position right, getting it wrong at the beginning can hamper your progress later on (I speak from experience). matt

I fitted these seemed a good price for NOS valves, they sounded pretty good, lower gain than the originals to my ears, but the whole amp is just too high gain for me and i've gone back to the Markbass F1 i was using originally. Matt

changing the valves in a terror bass is fairly easy, the one thing to look out for is the screws that hold the top cage section on are very cheap and prone to the heads getting chewed up. I swapped mine out for some black cap head bolts which are much more robust, I can't remember exactly what size but could check when i get home. there is a thread on here somewhere that goes through the whole process of swapping the valves , if i get a chance to find it i'll add a link. but once the top cover is off it's take the valve covers off (bayonet fitting) and then pull the valves out carefully, then make sure the new valve is properly aligned and it should just push in, covers on and off you go. I put some lower gain valves in mine but never really gelled with it, at some point i'll put it up for sale. Matt

Yes but I didn't go looking for it, I've got a 81 Aria Cardinal, it popped up locally for sale at a very low price as it had been defretted, used it fret less for a bit then had it refretted with stainless fret wire. It comes out occasionally, as a bonus it came with the original hard case and the guarantee papers. My first guitar and my first bass were both aria as well so I have a bit of a soft spot for Aria. Matt

how do you have this connected? the dark terror doesn't have a Di output so are you using the effects send? to get a true dry signal the Di needs to be before the amp, so guitar into Di, then the link on the Di out to the amp and the XLR output on the Di to your interface. Matt

I used some of these I think, very thin flat head, no idea where they came from but they are definitely computer ones.

I'll have to double check when i get home but i think they are the same thread as computer case screws, I removed the feet from our guitarist's cry baby and i'm fairly sure that's what i used in their place as i have quite a stash of them. I don't have the pedal but i do have the original feet and screws safely stored away. Matt EDIT - for the OP I use the Velcro heavy duty (the proper branded stuff) I buy it in big packs from screwfix.

I made do with a bit of wood and a folded towel for ages then I got one of these, does the job perfectly, not worth an order on it's own but as part of a bigger order (or if a friend is putting in an order) than it's worth it. Matt

the rooms we use have Ampeg STV-3 Pro's in every room, with matching Ampeg cabs, 4x10, 6x10 and 8x10 depending on the room. personally i've never quite got on with the sound so i take my Barefaced 1x12 and markbass head with me anyway I've come across some pretty shocking amps in other local rooms though, as well as weird rules, when i was playing guitar in another band i was using an orange tiny terror head and would usually just plug into whichever cab was handy, at one place they had a rule that you weren't allowed to plug your amp into the house cabs so i had to use a Marshall 100w head rather than my little 15w one.

i'm not sure if they buy from the public but i've bought NOS valves from Langrex, they keep a huge stock of NOS valves so might be interested in these. LINK I guess it might be worth an email to see if they are interested. Matt