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Everything posted by Matt P
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they don't quote a maximum loading weight, only that it is for 6" to 10" monitor speakers, at a guess those will be under 10kg a side so with 27kg on it i'd expect this to be overloaded and possibly squashed fairly flat? Matt
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i might have to get one of these for my boat-anchor '77 P-bass, @fleabag would you be able to measure the diameter of the ring of reinforcing stitching around the strap button hole please, I like to enlarge the hole out a bit to fit Schaller straplocks and don't want to cut into the reinforcing stitching. thanks Matt
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@ikay if you're competent with a needle and thread it wouldn't be difficult to cut the webbing section at the base where it joins to the loop at the end and shorten it down by as much as you need, it's only one small section of stitching that would be needed, i've done this type of sewing before with webbing and it's easy to work with, you'd want to seal the end of the webbing before you sew it but that's easy enough with a lighter and some patience. Matt
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You have £300 and you HAVE to buy a new bass today…..
Matt P replied to Rayman's topic in General Discussion
as my main bass is a short scale 5er there isn't much choice, but the Ibanez TMB35 in green was actually what i was going to buy before i had my custom built so that's what id go for, would either spend the change on an overdrive pedal from the secondhand cabinet or a set of spare strings. Matt -
I have actualy made one of these using a 25x25x50mm alu box from ebay and some jack sockets. at work we are asked to only have one earphone in so that we can hear what is going on in the office (reasonable enough for this workplace) so my box has a stereo to mono summing circuit in it (just 3 resistors really) and i used different sized jacks to make it more obvious which way round the box needed to be connected for the summing circuit I think my total outlay was under 8 quid including the box and all the components, and i have it connected via a 3.5mm stereo jack socket to the laptop dock. my box is just blu-taked to the desk under the laptop stand but could have easily been screwed under the desk if i were at home.
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I've got spare skb rack nuts but no bolts/screws to go with them. Happy to drop them in the post if you want them. Matt Edit - the threads are 10-32 so not a standard metric thread.
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i might have 4 spares from the rack i've just re-assembled, I will check this evening. (there are definitely spares but can't remember how many) Matt
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are you looking for Acoustic-style Phosphor bronze strings? If so then i'd get in contact with Newtone for some custom ones, they're not as expensive as you would think and they will be able to make strings tailored for the scale and tension that you want. I've been using their acoustic strings for 15 years and they last really well and the tone is unparalleled. looking at the gauges of the D'addario ones (37,50,62,90) and putting that into the custom string configurator gives a price of 27.50 for phosphor bronze on hex core, it's a bit more (a few quid) for the platinum spec strings which have a smoother feel. they will take a couple of weeks to arrive but will be made to your spec. as the D'addario ones are over 40 a set this is a real bargain. I'm currently waiting for a huge order myself and have a 5 string stainless set being made for my Swift short scale 5. Newtone custom string configurator Matt
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I skipped on the Fender cases and went straight to a Hiscox Liteflite, my '77 p-bass is a good fit and it offers the best protection (IMO) it's possible to add little padded cushions to tailor the fit but i've found that they are a pretty good fit as standard. I have Hiscox cases for almost every instrument I own (11 of them at last count) they're not cheap compared to some but i think cheaper than the fender branded ones (possibly not by much), and short of something custom or a flight case they offer the best protection. If you're prepared to search round for a used one then they can be had quite cheaply, i think the cheapest i've paid was 30 quid but 60 or 70 is more usual. Matt
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i've just realised that since my last post in this thread I have bought and re-valved a Mk 1 Orange terror bass! I went with these NOS Philips valves from Langrex, Linky I went for the 12AT7 as they are lower gain (60 vs 100 for the 12AX7 I think) and the price with postage etc was very good compared to other places and the WA spec ones are supposedly military grade. the amp is now much more usable with a better range to the Gain control, it still gets really dirty when it's cranked but the gain control is far more progressive and usable. there is a great thread by @Happy Jackall about this which is where I got all my info about what spec valves to try. HERE Matt EDIT- just remembered that i also swapped out the screws that hold the top "cage" onto the amp, the original ones are pretty soft and easily damaged, i swapped them for some decent socket head (allen) screws, they're M3 thread, and i think 8mm long (I'm lucky that i work for an engineering company so things like this are easy to get, i think i scrounged these screws from the scrap metal bin after the last workshop clearout)
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Is this for a dedicated rehearsal room that is permanently set up? If so then the solution that i used many years ago in that situation was floor wedge monitors (10" or 12"), they don't need to be super fancy ones just something from a reputable brand that is in good condition, I'm guessing it is just the vocals that are running through them so it shouldn't be difficult to get a decent sound. I'd guess that after selling the current speakers and buying some powered monitors (or passive and a power amp or 2) you will have some money left over for other kit. Matt EDIT - as many bands are swapping over to In-ear monitoring I'd expect the secondhand market to be fairly full of wedge monitors
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It's mostly about upgrading whilst you're in there, the standard pots on many basses aren't that brilliant so swapping them out for good quality ones with decent reliability makes sense for the relatively small additional outlay, I've done this on many basses, not to improve the sound but so that i know that what's in there is good quality so can be relied upon. from experience of cheap enclosed barrel style jack sockets that would be the thing i changed out first (i've lost count of how many of these i have swapped out over the years) Matt
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All Sorted thanks please remove.PRE AMP HELP
Matt P replied to WAYNESWORLD's topic in Repairs and Technical
from the diagram it looks like the switch is part of a circuit board so bypassing might not be so easy, can you get photos of the actual part? it might be a case of simply bridging some connections on the board Matt -
My starting point for any wiring task is always the Seymour Duncan website HERE, they have clear easy to follow diagrams for most arrangements. as you are rewiring and replacing one of the pots i would suggest replacing all of them with good quality ones (CTS would be my top pick, with Alpha second choice) while you're in there, I will often make most of the harness out of the bass and then make the last connections before fitting it back into the bass, i generally get a bit of thick card and mount the pots into that while i'm soldering everything together if the pickup wires are long enough you should be able to do all the work out of the bass except the output jack connections. another thing to check/replace is the output jack, that style are notorious for failing, fitting a switchcraft version should give you the longest life. Matt
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Nickel roundwounds with low finger squeak - suggestions
Matt P replied to franzbassist's topic in Bass Guitars
you are correct, i'm not sure how i was confused there, i'm sure i have configured a custom set before and the cost was pretty much the same as a standard set. (within a couple of quid at least) they offer extra long as an option on the standard sets, might be worth asking what length that is? matt -
Nickel roundwounds with low finger squeak - suggestions
Matt P replied to franzbassist's topic in Bass Guitars
Newtone would be my suggestion too, the platinum should fit the bill perfectly, the custom option works out as the same as the standard options in terms of cost. I'll be ordering a short scale 5 string stainless set this weekend. Matt -
Advice please - cracked, Flaky Lacquer headstock restoration
Matt P replied to Bassfingers's topic in Repairs and Technical
if you have a half decent printer it's not difficult to make the decals at home, the transfer paper is cheap enough on ebay, I've done a few and it's not too hard to get a good result, and speaking from experience it wouldn't be difficult to get a distressed/worn look either, i managed it without even trying (had to sand it back and start again as i wanted a pristine finish) the difficult part is getting the digital image in my experience. Matt -
as far as i'm aware Seymour Duncan use the same colour coding for all their humbuckers so you should be fine to follow their wiring diagram and colours. Matt
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probably worth googling the exact pickup to see what colour code they are using, i have vague memories of a chart somewhere that gave the different combinations from different pickup manufacturers, from memory they all have their own combinations and they can use the same few colours but each company had their version. what make is the pickup that you have? Matt
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i use a stagebug passive and really like it (as have a number of sound techs that i've encountered), I also have one of the pro-di boxes which sounds identical to my ears, but i needed the smaller box of the stagebug to fit in my micro pedalboard. I'm on the loookout for another stagebug passive to add to my other pedalboard, the pro-di is in my emergency kit as a backup/spare the combination of great sound and tank-like construction just work for me, i'm expecting it to easily outlast me.
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i'm a separate pedals guy but i've owned a few zoom multi fx in the past, i found i was only using maybe 3 or 4 patches and they were usually copies of each other with one extra effect turned on or off on each, so my current setup has only a handful of pedals with two that get used for certain songs and the other 3 as always-on pedals to get my tone, i've added an A/B box and my wireless receiver to the board and ended up with all i actually need on one easy to transport and setup unit. the last Zoom pedal i had was the MS-60B, it was a great pedal but i found that i went for a couple of months without actually using it so it got sold (it was part of my pedalboard and there is just a gap now) Matt
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seymour duncan have excellent wiring diagrams, i'd look at the jazz with vol-blend-tone and probably the single humbucker volume, tone and split, you should be able to cobble together the arrangement from those. Link Matt
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i've had a fair few cables from these guys on Ebay JuiceBitz they are nice quality and offer a decent range of length options and connection options. as a bonus all the ones i've bought have had velcro ties included as well. Matt
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i think i'd go for a mustang 5 string, 30" scale, ebony board, blocks and binding, jazz pickups (60's wind) 18mm spacing and a super chunky neck, Nitro Daphne blue and matching headstock and Hipshot ultralite lollypop tuners and Hipshot bridge., as i don't have such a magic pass i'll have to build it myself (albeit as a 4 string) using a Harley benton neck and some Wilkinson pickups and hardware. the custom 5 string that andyjr1515 built me will have to do for my short scale 5 string duties. Matt
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Mains extension cable with multiple spaced outlets
Matt P replied to Paul S's topic in Accessories and Misc
I need one of those as well, when they make another appearance can someone post it to this thread please? then we can all nip out and get one. Matt