Matt P

I have a Polytune on my main pedalboard (one of the first gen ones) and a polytune mini on my tiny second board, i've had brief experience of the TU-2 and didn't get on with it for some reason. the polytune wins for me as i can check all the strings very quickly with one strum (excellent for a quick check between songs) Matt

hello, as well as a new screw you will also need the little washers that go between the button (the twisty thing) and the main body of the tuner. your profile says you are in the north east of england, if you are near to Newcastle (west end not far from the west road and the A1) then i might have a sutable screw in my stash somewhere, failing that it might be posible to buy another tuner and then use one for parts to get a working one (a complete set of replacement tuners might also be an option and needent be that expensive) Matt

Anyone who tries this with my tagged location will only find a great pint of beer or a delicious curry! (or an excellent Italian meal if they wander down the road a bit.

I'm one of the numpties that managed to put myself in twice (Matt P about number 1040 ish) i picked a location that was near enough (the right city) but the exact location is a few miles from my actual lair. Matt

i've played around a little with alternate tunings on banjo and Mandolin, i found the "upside down" tuning of the mandolin a bit of a pain after years of playing guitar, i briefly tried tuning in fourths like a guitar but didn't have the money to try the custom string gauges that would have given proper tension (i was a poor student at the time) so the mandolin got sold. My Banjo is a 5 string so the tuning is far more guitar like and i found this easier. For a tenor i think i'd go for the Chicago tuning, as you already have a high E i would use one of the online string tension calculators to work back to determine the most ideal gauges for the other strings then buy the 3 to convert the current set (assuming the current strings are fresh) I've found that the tensions for many sets are all over the place, especially the g on many acoustic instruments tuned in 4ths, it's often way higher tension than the other strings. Individual loop end strings are easy enough to get, as an alternative you could contact Newtone and have a custom set made to suit whatever tuning you want (not actually that expensive) Matt

I have the roqsolid covers for my gen2 midgets, with the strap and the pocket for the grille protection (I used some very rigid foam board) I bought the covers when I got the cabs which were some of the last made before the switch to gen3. Mine have held up great, just minor fraying in the edging at the corners.

I think it's a rg120-210, aka a commander 120, I believe that Kurt Cobain used the head version about the time of bleach.

there was another amp the same listed on Reverb, it has the speakers wired in series as well, It's not common but I think this one is supposed to be series. Reverb I suggested the 1.5v battery as it's a little kinder on the speaker coil and i've always found it to be enough for testing, it's not too hard to do especially if you have a short length of wire like the jumper wire on this amp.

I suspect that this is the wiring that you need. The black wire on the lower left hand connection should be moved to the top right speaker connector

if the other speaker is working then i suspect that you don't need any more wires, have a good look for the impedance markings, i suspect they are 4Ohm speakers designed to be in series, In that case all the wires you need are there already, I'll scribble out a diagram to show the wiring and post it below. matt

from the wires visible i'd guess they were in series and either one has been disconnected at an attempt to cut the volume, or one has failed (which would cut all sound when they were in series) and the wiring changed so that it gives some output. but as @BigRedXhas already said it will be much clearer if you can find the impedence value marked on the speaker (clear photos of any writing or markings should help.) if you have access to a multimeter then it's possible to test the speaker, or it's also possible to test with a small battery (AA or AAA) Matt

I'm looking for the same thing that @Merton asked for in the initial talks, a small footprint simple amp with a 3 band eq, if it can have a di then that's great but for me the simpler the amp the better. @Stonehamknows what he is doing so I'm very happy to leave the finer points to his expertise. Matt

I used to have an Orange tiny terror (the 15w all valve guitar one) and it had 3 speaker jacks on the back, a 16 ohm, and a pair for 8ohm, so if you had a single 16ohm cab you connected to the 16 ohm socket, for a pair of 16's then you plugged them both into the 8ohm sockets, and for a single 8 ohm it went into one of the 8 ohm sockets. could a similar thing be done here? a single 8ohm labeled one (for a single 8ohm cab) and then a pair labeled as min 4 ohm for either a pair of 8ohm cabs or a single 4ohm, this would save a tiny bit of space and still cover the required options, if someone had 16ohm cabs then they'd need to daisy-chain them or use a special cable, I don't think there are many 16ohm options when it comes to bass-specific cabs (feel free to make me look silly by listing all the 16ohm cabs available) Using the combo speakon/jack sockets would be my preference (even though all my cables are speakon)

same here, would a footswitch for drive be possible? the 3 band cut/bost eq is perfect for me, DI is a very useful feature too.

are any of these amps NOT going to be used with barefaced cabs? 😁 Matt

i've just noticed the 40cm wide aim, this is perfect for me as i'm using Barefaced Midgets which are 38cm wide, 1cm overhang on each side is perfectly acceptable to me. from memory the Handbox R400 was a good fit on my cabs at 375mm the 100W valve one is a bit wider at 460mm, so more overhang than i'd like. Matt

Excellent! big thumbs up for a more original look (as long as it's not too wide) as a Tyneside bassist myself i'm hoping i'll be able to give the prototype a good run (need to get some gigs booked i guess!)

i'd want it to be able to get to gig volume clean also, a setup more like a guitar amp with gain and master volume would suit me, set the gain to determine how dirty it was, then the master for the overall level. Matt

I've Briefly mentioned this to Martin in the past (he has serviced a fem amps for me over the years) If it can sit nicely on my Barefaced Midgets then i'm interested, 100W would be plenty for me and a nice simple layout like the YI200 is perfect. I'm guessing the all-metal casing will be something like a Terror bass head? Matt

these might be a bit cheaper? (no idea about postage) another option is to find a bearing supplier locally and phone them, i'd expect that they would be a couple of quid each and they would sell you them through the trade counter as a cash sale. just ask for 18mm outside diameter and 16mm inside diameter and make sure the length is right, many of the cheaper options are easily trimmed to length with a stanley knife (nylon or polyamide) I would avoid Oilite beatrings as they are designed to leach oil out slowly which might damge the finish (possible staining of the wood under the finish) Matt

i'm alternating between acoustic and bass at the moment (never both on the same Sunday though) for my acoustic i'm using a T-Rex Soulmate Acoustic (a fantastic bit of Kit) as an interface and for the Bass i'm using a micro pedalboard with Tuner, EQ, Compressor, Bass Soul food and a chorus with a radial DI at the end of the chain. I'm thinking of slightly simplifying the bass input with a rack preamp as there is a small rack case just next to my usual stage position and occasionally there will be a different bassist on a sunday and they don't have any pedals/preamps. we went to IEM's during lockdown so the lovely Trace head and mismatched cabs that were in use before have gone (the trace is now mine) when there was a bass rig it was easy for anyone to just plug in and play, i'm thinking that a simple preamp that looks like a regualr amp would make it equally easy for other bassists to plug in (as well as giving me the chance to slim down my bass pedalboard even further) What preamps/interfaces are people using for their bass? Matt

Martin at stoneham has been my go to amp tech for a while now, I have suggested a 100w bass head to him and he seemed to suggest that it would be possible, if it was narrow enough not to hang over the edges of my cabs I'd possibly be interested as well.

I have a near identical (but home-made) cable and 9v battereis in my gig case too, the Mooer Di is more of a back-up on my pedalboard as 99% of the time i'm running the link output into an amp and would use the Di on that if i was going to the PA (a very rare occurrence as we play pubs etc and our PA is vocal only) the Mooer Di has been used for recording though and did a great job. I actually have a couple of Passive Radial Di boxes (a stagebug and a Pro) that get more use but there wasn't quite room on my board for them so the Mooer is there instead, i've had the Mooer the longest and only bought the Radials in the last couple of years as they came up used at sensible prices Matt

I have this Mooer Di on my bass pedalboard, It is indeed a fine unit with a very usable sound, my only minor gripe is that it needs a 9v power supply as it can neither take a battery (understandable owing to it's size) nor run from Phantom power (as far as i can remember) Matt

Do you know what the item number was? I've had a search and couldn't see them (might have been looking in the wrong place or using the wrong search terms) Matt Edit, I think I might have found it, This one?