icastle

Sounds to me as if the singer is trying to dominate everything and the lead guitarist feels safest standing behind him. Talk to the rest of the band and see how they feel - from what you've said it sounds like you and the drummer are on pretty much the same wavelength. Get enough people to be honest about how they're feeling in the band and you've either got the makings of a new band or a band that pulls together. Singers are easily replaced and the lead guitarist might settle down a bit if the disruptive influence is out of the way.

[quote name='MythSte' post='1145768' date='Mar 1 2011, 02:14 PM']I was in Dawsons the other day and I had a go on the new Fender American Special Jazz they had in there. Lovely bass it was as well! I asked them what the best price they could do it for would be and the guy said he couldnt move on Fenders as they made so little money on them, the only reason they stocked them was so that people would take them seriously because "everyone wants a Fender". Is there any truth in this do you think? He was a nice chap otherwise and I dont think he was being a douche![/quote] My experience with Arbiter many years ago was that they actively dissuaded discounting - essentially 'discount our products and you'll lose your franchise'. Not sure if that's still true. There has to be a certain degree of markup on a product to make it worthwhile selling. If the distributor makes it too high then they create price wars, if they make it too low then, even with the Fender name, they're not going to get any takers. My own approach would have been to have sold you the bass at the marked price and just sweeted the deal with a few sets of strings - if the bass was £800 and I gave you £80 worth of strings, you've got the bass for £720 but that £80 discount would only have cost me about £40.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1145440' date='Mar 1 2011, 09:57 AM']You always get the "We can't do any better the price is cut to compete with the internet blah blah higher overheads blah"[/quote] I always attack it from the other direction. I'll already know the internet price and add the P&P to that figure - I tell them what that price is and let them know that if they can get close to it they might have a sale. I also tell them that I know they have overheads so I'm prepared to be a little bit flexible on how close they can get. If they quibble then I walk.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1145664' date='Mar 1 2011, 01:10 PM']No you have to ground the bridge which in turn grounds the strings and ultimately involves you in the circuit.[/quote] +1 You'll have to drill a hole if there isn't one already there. As you have to drill the hole at a pretty shallow angle I'd drill a little hole stright down under the bridge where you want the wire to exit, and then reposition the drill to aim for the cavity. If you try and drill a hole at an angle without the 'starting hole', the drill will just shoot off over the wooden surface.

[quote name='Blademan_98' post='1145219' date='Feb 28 2011, 11:07 PM']Probably a stereo to mono split: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/1-4-6.35mm-stereo-plug-to-2-mono-plugs-28109"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/1-4-6.35mm-stereo-...ono-plugs-28109[/url] The only way you can get a signal in and out on the same connector I would have thought.[/quote] +1 The Send is connected to the tip and the Return is connected to the ring.

[quote name='redstriper' post='1145192' date='Feb 28 2011, 10:54 PM']Yes, I take your point - I've been silly haven't I................ and in public too [/quote] In fairness, part of what you are looking for certainly isn't beyond the realms of reasonable. I managed a music shop back in the 80's and if you'd expressed an interest in a particular bass and wanted to put your own set of strings on it to try it out, then I'd have gone along with it. I'd have drawn the line at me supplying the strings out of my own pocket, although I'd have bunged in a set to sweeten the deal. We used to stock a pretty good range of bass strings but only ever had two sets of Fender flats and one set of Picato's - they just hung there on the pegboard for the three years I was there. Mind you, just about everyone was using those .030 Superwound FunkMasters at the time - it was like stroking cheese wire...

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1144985' date='Feb 28 2011, 09:03 PM']I like flats and I'm a veggie. Can you add an option in the poll for me please?[/quote] Flat Round Other Awkward Sod

[quote name='TimR' post='1144737' date='Feb 28 2011, 06:10 PM']Strange question to ask on BassChat. Don't most basschatters listen to the first bar and then make the rest up?[/quote] What? Listen to the entire first bar, as in all of it?

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1144018' date='Feb 27 2011, 11:15 PM']I know mate I wasn't being a cock, I just thought I'd say my bit again for comedy effect. [/quote] Ah... ... have you considered putting a washer under the nut at all?

I reckon it's a BB350. EDIT: It [b]is[/b] a BB350.

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1143831' date='Feb 27 2011, 08:57 PM']Or you could try a washer under the adjuster nut. [/quote] Sorry our posts crossed... There is always that of course... Obviously you have to be sensible with it and not be tempted to use loads of washers though because the truss rod will only take a certain amount of pull on it before it becomes a metal rod flopping about inside a wooden box...

[quote name='niceguyhomer' post='1143785' date='Feb 27 2011, 08:20 PM']Just bought a bass for a back up and just doing my boding session with it and noticed the truss rod's maxed out. Is there anything I can do?[/quote] Once you've hit max then it's pretty much game over. You could try slackening off the truss rod and retightening it whilst giving the neck a bit of a bend just to make sure the truss rod is moving freely. The other alternative is to use a lighter set of strings so it doesn't have so much work to do? A luthier could possibly defret and replane and refret the fingerboard but that's gonna cost a fair bit so I'd be more inclined to buy a replacement neck (assuming that's an option of course).

Usually everything gets left flat. Inbuilt compression and octaver stuff all switched off because it's just nasty. Wierd boost and cut switches all switched off, graphic switched off. I might play around with the bog standard Bass and Treble controls if the room needs it, other than that I tend to use the bass and playing techniques to get the required sound.

[quote name='Blademan_98' post='1143532' date='Feb 27 2011, 05:01 PM']I NEVER play bum notes, just LOADS of chromatic passing notes![/quote]

[quote name='silddx' post='1143431' date='Feb 27 2011, 03:47 PM']I think these techniques are a often neglected part of every bass players tool kit and they can really help the music to breathe. It's not often discussed on Basschat from what I've seen. I am wondering why? Are they not seen as important to a bassist?[/quote] I know exactly what you mean. I think the difficulty is that it's easy enough to teach the physical techniques involved but it's down to the individual musician to decide where and how to use those techniques - I don't think you can teach that. Personally, I find it incredibly frustrating watching people just bashing out the right notes in the right places and totally missing the feel of what they're supposedly part of, and that's not just bass players either!

[quote name='essexbasscat' post='1143191' date='Feb 27 2011, 12:13 PM']The octaves in the chorus. Is it possible to get that kind of expression without flats and dampening sponges ? Does anyone else find it almost too easy to over - emphasise the top note when playing those octaves ?[/quote] Well if you want to get the totally original sound then flats are certainly the way to go - I don't think there was a choice of rounds in those days. The general tendency is to 'snatch' the octave note but that can be 'practised out'.

I think roundwounds are just more 'musically flexible' than flats - I use flats on my fretless and rounds on everything else.

Unless the rest of the band had a real issue with it, I'd have to correct it - that's probably more of a personality thing than a musical one, I like things neat and tidy...

[quote name='robocorpse' post='1142581' date='Feb 26 2011, 05:48 PM']No need to be so condescending...[/quote] It was not intended to be in any way condescending, sorry if you took it to be.

[quote name='robocorpse' post='1142319' date='Feb 26 2011, 01:39 PM']What about wiring a 10 watt 8 ohm resistor across a jack plug and leaving it plugged in all the time unless you have a speaker connected? that way if you do accidentally unplug the headphones, there is no chance of running the output TR unloaded.[/quote] But wait! I have a cunning plan.... Why not use a 10W 8Ω loudspeaker across a jack plug and leave it plugged in all the time...

Chances are that it won't. I was fortunate enough to have an STD-EBS case from one of my other basses to try on my ESP 6 (which seems to have a very similar body shape to your Overwater PIII) and found that the lower body 'bulge' was about 2cm too big. I just bought a bog standard unshaped case and it fitted just fine.

[quote name='EssentialTension' post='1141152' date='Feb 25 2011, 01:04 PM']I've not seen these before:[/quote] Bl**dy Hell!!! I'd need a ladder to reach first position on one of those!

[quote name='Dronny' post='1140938' date='Feb 25 2011, 10:48 AM']My band has a few gigs coming up and we think we need a little bit of PA support for the kick-drum (but probably not for my bass). We have a PA with 2 active speakers, but no sub. We do have a spare PA-style power-amp, and I have a spare bass cab (a Hartke 4x10). We were wondering if we could use those 2 to give the PA a bit of extra "bottom"... but I'm unclear on whether the bass cab would be any use for this...[/quote] It's not really ideal. A proper sub usually has a large speaker, capable of reproducing low frequencies. Your 4x10 (and horn?) was designed as a full range cab. A proper sub usually has a crossover to ensure that only low frequencies are passed to the speaker. Your 4x10 doesn't have one of these.

Mine is covered at home by household insurance. (Legal & General) My PLI policy has an optional extra added to cover equipment loss or damage at gigs. (Zurich) The only weak spot is the car insurance - I've only got a £500 limit on that for 'entertainment equipment'. (Post Office)

[quote name='Marky L' post='1140194' date='Feb 24 2011, 05:51 PM']Just to add my experience to the confusion... I run an Ashdown 500w head into both my Ashdown 1x15 and 2x10 and for live pub work it is way more than adequate. We're a four piece rock(ish) band and are quite loud (any more so and it would become an intolerable racket!) and with my input at around 9 o'clock (1/4) which gets my VU needle hitting red when I play hard, and the output at 12 o'clock (1/2) I'm plenty noticable in the live mix. Oh and no FOH for me. At some point I would like to get a 4X10 to give me a bit more oomph.[/quote] +1 I'm running the same sort of setup (albeit from different manufacturers).