icastle

[quote name='mcnach' post='1035923' date='Nov 25 2010, 09:25 AM']It's like when my girlfriend asks "why would you need 6 basses?" [/quote] "Because I like to take at least one day off a week and the seventh one would just be a waste?"

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='1035945' date='Nov 25 2010, 09:46 AM']Hi guys I've got (figure of speech, picking it up within the next week or 2) a Trace Elliot RAH250 SMX head with 2 speaker outputs on the back that are rated at 8 ohms each but at home I've got 1 Marshall JCM 800 Bass Series 4x12 fitted with 4 Celestion G12-65 15 ohm inpedance speakers as well as a Marshall JCM 800 Bass Series 2x15 fitted with 2 Celestion G15-200 speakers (Not sure on the impedance, they will either be 8 or 15 ohm) I'm just wondering if it will in any way damage my head or cabinets plugging one into each of the outputs on the head? If you guys could help it would be great.[/quote] The Marshall JCM 800 Bass Series 2x15 is rated at 8Ω Can't find any data on the Marshall JCM 800 Bass Series 4x12 but you can be 99% sure that it will be 8Ω as well. HTH

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1035728' date='Nov 24 2010, 10:50 PM']OK I'm extracting the urine[/quote] You little tinkler you...

[quote name='son of frog' post='1035819' date='Nov 25 2010, 12:24 AM']Good idea, i shall give that a try, and if it holds tight i shall superglue it.[/quote] Superglue the pencil to the remaining part of the shaft by all means but don't be tempted to glue the button - one day a tech is going to want to replace that pot and your name will be mud mate...

[quote name='son of frog' post='1035720' date='Nov 24 2010, 10:44 PM']This may be cosmetic damage, and as much as this faithful combo has been through the wars, this issue is rather irritating, The GAIN knob has come off and i need an ingenious way to re fit it, One of the sides of the two pronged slot for the knob has broken off, this is not just about the cosmetics of the amp, but is slightly annoying when you don't know what level of gain you're on, I don't really have to technical know how to take the head out and put a new one in, But if anyone knows a good guitar tech around Guildford / Godalming or one willing to travel that would also be appreciated...[/quote] Hi Tom, Off the wall idea, but how about cutting an inch of pencil, splitting it down the middle to make a D shaped piece of wood. Hold it against the remaining piece of shaft and push the button back on. Ian

[quote name='GK_Nik' post='1035532' date='Nov 24 2010, 07:56 PM']icastle- Nope, nothing. Looks like I'm going to have to ship it out and pay the price. Just as I'm meant to be heading to the studio too!! [/quote] There's an internal fuse as well.... Never looked inside one of these so I don't know its exact location - if you feel confident enough you could always take the lid off and see if that one has popped. If it has popped make sure you swap it for the exact same type just in case it blew because of another fault.

[quote name='GK_Nik' post='1035517' date='Nov 24 2010, 07:45 PM']icastle- Yeah that was my initial thought, unfortunatley that isn't the problem :/[/quote] Darn You're getting no lights, no mains thud as you switch on or anything?

[quote name='GK_Nik' post='1035483' date='Nov 24 2010, 07:27 PM']Hey guys, new to this forum. I have a Gallien Krueger 700rb II head, had it for about 2-3 years, but just recently it wont turn on at all. I dont know an awful lot about amp heads or have any idea what the problem could be. Just thought i'd post something on here to see if anyone could help me out, before having to spend shipping and inspection fee's. :/ Any help would be appreciated, Nik.[/quote] You tried checking the fuse in the mains lead and the one on the back of the amp? - those woud be my favourite places to start if the whole thing is dead.

[quote name='phil.mcglassup' post='1035288' date='Nov 24 2010, 04:52 PM']It looks like B&Q do a leaded solder- is this the one? [url="http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9284805&fh_view_size=10&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=solder&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=1290617338583&isSearch=true"]http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav.jsp?acti...p;isSearch=true[/url] Cheers.[/quote] Yep - that's the one

[quote name='Colledge' post='1035242' date='Nov 24 2010, 04:24 PM']cheers for the advice. Copper tape is on the way. i'm guessing [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Jack-Socket-Mono-Switched-6-35m-2-Pack-CN325-/150502433300?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item230aa4e214#ht_1185wt_907"]this[/url] does the job? it'll be going on an angled strat style mount on the rear control cavity, actually works out well for placement. pics when done.[/quote] Yep - just the thing

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='1035216' date='Nov 24 2010, 04:04 PM']You might not get all that much hum considering you are using a humbucker.[/quote] ...until you add the proposed piezo of course, and whats a couple of inches of wire between friends...

[quote name='Colledge' post='1035202' date='Nov 24 2010, 03:55 PM']right, so i have to get an active electronics specific jack connector then? and the wire i just noticed attached to the volume control housing should be grounded?[/quote] Yep. You need a switched 1/4" jack socket and the rule of thumb should be that any large lump of metal that isn't "live" should be grounded - you certainly can't overdo shielding

[quote name='Colledge' post='1035151' date='Nov 24 2010, 02:58 PM']Does a piezo need any extra preamp stage or buffer or would it work straight into the preamp.[/quote] It'll probably need a buffer - the impedance will generally be far too low without one. [quote name='Colledge' post='1035151' date='Nov 24 2010, 02:58 PM']I'd also like to clarify the use of the gnd connection.... i don't have any shielding (future job) and my jack connector doesn't have 3 terminals like in the diagram, should i connect it to the bridge ground?[/quote] The shielding is quite important - especially if you now have a preamp runing as well - you're liable to pick up a whole pile of buzzes and background "mush" without it. The jack connector has to have three connections as shown as the "extra" connection is used as a switch to power on the preamp.

[quote name='Johnston' post='1034823' date='Nov 24 2010, 10:26 AM']I must actually try and get some Orange gear. With them and Indies or Tokais Union Jack designs I could make a fortune over here in July [/quote] LMAO!!!

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1034786' date='Nov 24 2010, 09:47 AM']Are you sure about that? Have you actually tried it? Unless your guitar is a PoS made out of crappy wood and held together by sticky tape it's unlikely to suffer any serious damage provided that you adjust the truss rod to compensate. The difference in tension between a set of guitar strings and bass ones will be less than expected as the bass strings will need to be at a lower tension than normal to compensate for the shorter scale length. Simple physics really.[/quote] You reckon that it won't fold then, hey, fine (have you actually tried it?) Sooo.... You'll then need to change the bridge - the strings wont attach because the ball ends are too big. The nut will have to be recarved to accomodate the thicker strings. Then you'll have to change the machine heads to accomodate the thicker string and windings which means redrilling the headstock. Once all this has happened you'll then have to just hope that the neck is wide enough to accomodate the massively thicker strings [b]and[/b] remain a playable instrument - at this point I think you might discover why they make 6 string basses with wider necks than 4 string basses...

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1034654' date='Nov 24 2010, 01:07 AM']Micro heads, I don't own one myself, but I can definitely see the advantage of them.[/quote] Saving money on bobble hats? ...I'll get me mini coat...

[quote name='son of frog' post='1034667' date='Nov 24 2010, 01:50 AM']Does anyone know if this would be possible, The likes of the Fender Bass VI is the tone im looking for, but without the price tag of about £10000 if you can find one, I was thinking about One of those Danelectro Dead on 67 Baritones, [url="http://www.dv247.com/guitars/danelectro-dead-on-67-baritone-electric-guitar-limey-green--67271"]http://www.dv247.com/guitars/danelectro-de...ey-green--67271[/url] But would i be able to get a Standard E A D G B E tuning out of one if bass strings were put on it... ? Theres a severe lack in 6 string basses tuned to guitar tuning... Someone advise me? thanks very much in advance. -Tom[/quote] I'd imagine that if you put bass strings onto a guitar that was originally designed to have no more than the tension of electric guitar strings on it, you'll end up with something shaped like this... (and yes people, I know this one is supposed to look like this - it's the best example I could find!)

[quote name='BurritoBass' post='1034463' date='Nov 23 2010, 09:20 PM']Yes, ironically. White too! [/quote] I'll never learn

[quote name='Luc' post='1034713' date='Nov 24 2010, 07:55 AM']I bought this alembic a few months ago, and I would like to know if the main wood of the body is Mahagony or Walnut ... ?[/quote] It's Mahogany

[quote name='Jamesemt' post='1034703' date='Nov 24 2010, 07:00 AM']Thanks for all the help guys. Feeling a bit more confident! James[/quote] No problem James. Try putting it together the way described on Sunday and if anything doesn't quite work out right, let us know and we'll have a rethink for you

[quote name='phil.mcglassup' post='1034714' date='Nov 24 2010, 07:56 AM']Thanks. I did think of making some sort of template so that the new switches (the EQ and pre shape buttons) but it would have to be made accurately. I wondered if it is possible to get hold of low melting point solder so that excess heat can be avoided. The switches are very small and only have two short legs to solder to and was advised that the heat that builds up can easily melt the switch being fitted. Actually getting to the switches is pretty strightforward, it's all plug and play really it's just that this is the most delicate bit of soldering I've ever been faced with!![/quote] To make a template I usually choose the nearest edge of the chassis and measure the location from there, then do the same thing on the vertical plane. Once I have those it's easy to make a template on a piece of cardboard box As for solder, try and track down the old style 60/40 Lead Tin stuff and avoid the lead free type as it has a higher melting point. Just take your time with it, plan ahead and double check before soldering the switch and you'll be fine

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1034584' date='Nov 23 2010, 11:30 PM']So in the same way that Jazz basses, Warwicks, Stingrays etc etc all have their own distinctive sounds, yet different depending on model, brand, woods etc, do pre-amps have similar distintive characteristics (obviously varying depending on which bass they're put in?) e.g. Is there a certain pre-amp that sounds more hi-fi than others, another that's more growly etc?[/quote] Up to a point yes. There are going to be limitations though - you'd never be able to get a true MM sound out of an £89 PB copy

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1034574' date='Nov 23 2010, 11:18 PM']If you put in an 8 Ohm resistor, would that not actually lower the power going to the speaker? Just trying to find out, don't know (hence asking instead of stating) but if you have a 300w into 4 Ohm amp, due to the nature of the beast and because it's not as efficient at 4 Ohms, wouldn't it run at about 200w into 8 Ohm? So into one 8 Ohm speaker you'd get (guesstimate) 200w, but if you added an 8 Ohm resistor, you'd get 300w split in two, meaning the speaker would only get 150w? That's just my logic speaking, it could be complete crap, just curious. [/quote] The biggest problem with using a resistor in place of a speaker is that there is nowhere for the power to go and therefore it becomes heat. The resistor would need to be something capable of handling 300W or it would just burn out - to give you an indication of the sizes involved, the standard resistors that you see most frequently in amplifiers, effects pedals etc are usually rated at 1/4W. I have an A4 sized board hanging on the wall in my little workshop which is covered with rows of big wirewound resistors which allow me to dissipate just over 300W into an 8Ω load and it gets hot enough to make touching it impossible. Speakers dissipate this power mostly by moving the cone so stay a lot cooler.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1034570' date='Nov 23 2010, 11:12 PM']I know a lot of people change pre-amps in basses, I've thought about it in the past (particularly with my old BTB which sounds a lot flatter than most basses) but I wondered how you know which pre-amp is the best suited to your bass and what you want to achieve, when a good pre-amp costs about £200, I can't imagine people experiment to see what suits what. I also can't imagine it being easy to find the same bass/pre-amp combination that people want to try out. So how do people know what pre-amp to pick?[/quote] I think a lot of it is word of mouth and recommendations from people who have fitted them/had them fitted or have them as standard factory issue on their basses. A lot of it is by a process of elimination (that one is only a two band and I have three holes to fit, that one is specifically designed for passive pups and I have active, that one is designed to work with fretless and I want fretted...) and research into those that are left.

[quote name='Moos3h' post='1034209' date='Nov 23 2010, 06:48 PM']Here's one for you! If a bass amp puts out 300w at 4 ohms, but is fitted with an 8 ohm speaker - is there any way of wiring something in series/parallel with the internal speaker to make the amp 'see' 4 ohms and thus put the full welly through the one speaker? I'm SURE there must be a reason why this can't be done? Cheers, James[/quote] It can be done. You just need to wire another 300W 8Ω speaker in parallel with the first one