icastle

[quote name='Stag' post='1028518' date='Nov 18 2010, 09:41 PM']I had never really liked the look of Jazzes (the metal bit where the controls are for some reason has always put me off? dont ask me to explain why, I dont know lol)[/quote] Choice of chrome, brass or black here if that helps... [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/search,b.html?category=131&q=control+plate"]http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/search,b.html?cat...q=control+plate[/url] [quote name='Stag' post='1028518' date='Nov 18 2010, 09:41 PM']Are the modern Jazzes of a similar ilk... ie. fast thin necks, easy to play etc? I might have to get me one after this experience but a vintage one is not going to be obtainable due to the price attached to them.[/quote] There have been minor changes across the models over the years and the MIM and MIJ models may have ended up with a 0.5mm difference if they were made on a tuesday or some such nonsense, but they are essentially the same profile. Go try a MIA/MIJ/MIM at your local shop and see what you think

[quote name='spinynorman' post='1028638' date='Nov 18 2010, 10:52 PM']Now I'm worried what it might have been used for ... at home ....[/quote] ...whatever tickles yer fancy...

[quote name='Shire' post='1028354' date='Nov 18 2010, 08:08 PM']My girlfriend had this novel idea to use the hats that you get on the innocent smoothies (every smoothie bought donates 25p to the Age UK charity) to keep my tuning pegs warm now the winter is setting in. Not very macho but I found it amusing and thought I'd share [/quote] As discussed elsewhere on BC... This bass definately could do with your smoothie hats [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARIA-DIAMOND-VINTAGE-WHITE-FUR-BASS-GUITAR-AND-STAND-/140479365172?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item20b5390034"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ARIA-DIAMOND-VINTAGE...=item20b5390034[/url]

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='1028374' date='Nov 18 2010, 08:24 PM']I think someone has recommended these in the past as an ideal case for a Markbass LMII[/quote] Could be. Just struck me as a bit of a bargain for what they are

[quote name='Bassassin' post='1028268' date='Nov 18 2010, 06:23 PM']Is it really better than a Wal, or did he drag it out of a skip last week and make all that crap up? I wonder... [/quote] [i]"I even had a Wal hand made for me by the late, great Ian Waller (WAL), and it was superb, but it did not have the character this has".[/i] I think he means "Character" as in:- [i]"she's not pig ugly, she's just got.... character..."[/i]

[quote name='MB1' post='1027133' date='Nov 17 2010, 06:06 PM']Home use Only? [/quote] Would [b]you[/b] want to be seen in public with it?

[quote name='setekh' post='1028201' date='Nov 18 2010, 05:12 PM']Why would anyone publicly admit to having kept [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fretless-Bass-/270664922104?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item3f04e2f3f8#ht_500wt_898"]this monstruosity[/url] for 20 years?[/quote] Gosh I particularly like the rear electronics cover that looks suspiciously like a piece of galvanised cable trunking cut to shape with tin snips. On the bright side though, speaking as a man whose woodwork often involves blutak, there's hope for me yet...

Hi folks, Not my most favourite retailer, but credit where credit is due. Maplin have knocked £10 off the price of their aluminium covered cases - I picked up a couple this lunchtime to transport/store microphones in for about £40. Not the toughest cases in the world, but sturdy enough to cope with everyday bangs/scrapes/bounces and a lot less expensive than having to replace a mic... Details here: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=36796"]http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=36796[/url]

[quote name='BOD2' post='1027811' date='Nov 18 2010, 12:02 PM']That's a good step-by-step guide to indentifying the problem. Except the last part where it suggests disconnecting the AC ground to break a "ground loop". Don't ever do this. You might kill someone ![/quote] Yes indeed. I think what they're probably [b]trying[/b] to say is that if one pile of equipment is using a different earthing point from another pile of equipment from another pile of equipment, then connecting the two piles of equipment up together will create the opportunity for interference. What they are saying is correct - disconnecting the earth on one pile of kit may solve that problem but create a potentially hazardous environment in which to work in. Try using a hefty multiway trailing lead and run kit from the same mains source - if that removes the interference then you've at least identified what the problem is. I do know that there are devices on the market that provide a safe earth lift/isolation but I've not tried them and haven't studied the subject closely enough to be able to comment with any expertise.

[quote name='cheddatom' post='1027906' date='Nov 18 2010, 01:33 PM']What would I do with the ferrite rings? What's weird to me is that it seems I can run the exact same chain but using my rack of pres instead of my desk, and it's radio free. The desk is a cheap POS I bought off here for £20ish so perhaps it's that?[/quote] Perhaps the desk is more sensitive to the frequencies being erroneously received than the pre-amps.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='1028080' date='Nov 18 2010, 03:57 PM']Do they affect the signal in the cable in any way?[/quote] Nope. All they do is capture stray signals and convert it into heat. The original signal is not in any way attenuated.

[quote name='Happy Jack' post='1027817' date='Nov 18 2010, 12:06 PM']The reason 80's Fenders aren't worth as much as late 70's ones is simple - they weigh so much less. Since all the tone is in the weight, the less a bass weighs, the less it's worth. Obvious, really.[/quote] Surely the spilled hair gel would make up for that weight difference..?

[quote name='PhoenixBass1' post='1027466' date='Nov 17 2010, 11:48 PM']I was wondering if you guys could tell me some of you're best tips for solving the problem crackling and connection loss from a bad input socket. I would rather not replace the socket as this requires soldering which I'm very poor at, also I'd probably eventually have the same problem with the new socket. Any ideas?[/quote] Not sure if this is on your guitar or your amp. If it's on your [b]guitar[/b] then a replacement socket can be fitted by anyone who has some basic soldering skills. If you don't feel comfortable that you have those skills and don't have a mate who does, then you need to head for a guitar shop that does repairs and let them do it. It's not a complex piece of work so shouldn't cost you more than a 30min labour charge plus whatever parts they use. If the problem is on your [b]amp[/b] then the soldering techniques required may be a little more complex and you may risk a bigger repair bill by letting any Tom, Dick or Jaco who has a soldering iron attack it. As Phil has already said, make sure the problem is where you think it is - swap leads/guitars/amps (whatever you can do to prove or disprove where the fault lies) and then decide what you are going to do based on that.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='1027339' date='Nov 17 2010, 09:22 PM']They are open chassis, but once they go, seems they don't last, I have been doing exactly that, but never seems to keep them going for long. The problem with this one is the switch is totally slack, so time to source decent replacements. Might just go switchcraft.[/quote] Yeah - the metal contacts provide the latching as well and, as with all metals, every time you bend it the metal it becomes weaker and bends easier the next time round. From an engineeering point of view the design of that type of switch was pretty much a miniturised version of those big clanky switches that Dr Frankenstein used to use in the horror films. In my opinion, if someone were to design the Les Paul from scratch nowadays, that sort of switch would certainly not be seriously considered.

[quote name='martthebass' post='1027228' date='Nov 17 2010, 07:31 PM']That will make me 87..................not sure if it's worth the wait [/quote] Probably a better return for your money than you'd get from the Bank of Ireland though...

[quote name='bassatnight' post='1027302' date='Nov 17 2010, 08:52 PM'][i]when plugged in, when I turn the lowest knob (if the guitar is propped up vertically - I assume it controls the high end pick-up), there's an electronic buzz. When I touch the tuning pegs or the exit point of the lead, the buzz disappears, so it must be an earth thing. I have tried different amps, different leads and also checked that my fender strat works fine through all leads and amps.[/i][/quote] Yes that sounds like an earthing issue. As the machine heads are obviously earthed, it sounds like an "under the scratchplate" problem - so pretty easy to get to and fix if you can wield a soldering iron.

[quote name='Mykesbass' post='1027330' date='Nov 17 2010, 09:11 PM']Was the bass drum pedal wasn't it?[/quote] I was told it was a guitar pedal, but as it was a drummer that told me that... yes, it could have been the bass drum pedal

[quote name='ConnorHamilton' post='1027086' date='Nov 17 2010, 05:15 PM']Thanks guys, its a planet waves lead Ive been using. Yeah I can solder. Think Ive got an iron in the garage. Ill check how the contacts are against the lead! Thanks for the snappy replies. Connor[/quote] No problem Connor. If you're an experienced soldering iron wielder then you should have no problem changing the jack socket if needed. If you're not too sure then take a peek at this thread - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=110170"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=110170[/url] It covers the basics of soldering a pot but is equally true for a jack socket.

[quote name='Doctor J' post='1027038' date='Nov 17 2010, 04:37 PM']When I started playing in the late 80's, the pre-CBS were good, anything after was bad, then all of the 60's were great and all of the 70's were sh*t, black and white. Then good crept back to the mid 70's now it seems the early 80's ones were good.[/quote] LMAO - that is [b]so[/b] true. I'm going to don my asbestos and kevlar underwear now... the only real advantage I could see in having a pre CBS strat was that the horrible paint finish was starting to wear off

[quote name='Circle_of_Fifths' post='1027068' date='Nov 17 2010, 04:56 PM']There MUST be an electronics/radio/HiFi geek in your neighborhood. Look for a high radio antenna and there - underneath it you'll likely find someone who can solder if you cannot do it yourself. I cringe when I hear '[i]go to a guitar tech[/i]' as that usually means $$ (€€ for youse guys). What I find is that those cables made by just one company (Monster) are particularly bad on warping the contacts on female jacks and that if you can, just bend the spring-parts back into a tighter position. I've had Monsters destroy more than one female connex in the past with their slightly oversized dimensions.[/quote] We still use £££'s - with the possible exception of Norfolk... I agree though, this doesn't necessarily need a full blown guitar tech - only real advantage is that they probably have a stock of suitable sockets to hand and will understand that the socket also needs to switch on a tone control circuit (if applicable). Bending the socket contacts back into place is absolutely fine provided the socket is an open skeleton type (i.e. you can actually get to the contacts). Unfortunately some manufacturers are using the shrouded type which makes this impossible. And as for the Monsters - totally agree with your findings and they are also a company who are "prone to controversy" shall we say...

[quote name='bassbloke' post='1027024' date='Nov 17 2010, 04:26 PM']The irony is that a lot of the instruments - BC Rich Gunslingers, ESPs, Ibanez, Jackson and Charvel were just modern takes on the jazz and precision with more sculpted bodies and pointier headstocks.[/quote] ...and ironically it wasn't just the basses that had more sculpted bodies and pointier headstocks...

[quote name='ConnorHamilton' post='1027019' date='Nov 17 2010, 04:21 PM']Hey all, my Warwick FNA's jack input has recently started to play up when I plug in my lead. I have to plug it in and then pull it out a quarter inch to get a sound. I looked in the control cavity but as I have no idea about this stuff, it looked all fine to me. Are there any check I should do? Is this an easy fix? Am I an idiot? Please help. Thanks Connor.[/quote] Hi Connor, Assuming you're using a standard guitar lead, the jack socket on your FNA is faulty and needs replacing. It's quite easy to do yourself [b]provided[/b] you know how to solder - if you don't know how to solder then hand it over to a guitar tech. It's a pretty quick and easy thing to sort out so should be a relatively cheap repair job.

[quote name='Gust0o' post='1027013' date='Nov 17 2010, 04:13 PM']I'm not sure I would term the '80s as vintage, just yet[/quote] Best news I've heard all day as I was in my 20's back then...

[quote name='Skol303' post='1026956' date='Nov 17 2010, 03:23 PM']Hi folks, I'm keen to get your opinion on a good quality bass for a 'beginner' (well, I used to play bass over 10 years ago, so I class myself as an 'old newbie'!). I want something for home audio use, so ideally with passive pickups. Musically, the styles I'll be playing on it are dub / drum 'n' bass, some ska and occasionally rock/metal, so quite varied I suppose. I used to like playing around with distortion and wah pedals back in the day (Cliff Burton style!); not sure if that helps paints a picture of what I'm looking for, but heh. My budget is no more £200 tops (so yeah, I can't quite stretch to a Rickenbacker 4001!). At present, I'm considering either the Ibanez GSR200 or Squier Affinity P-Bass. Both retail at around the £180 mark new, and both seem to score highly in online reviews. Trouble is, I can't for the life of me decide on which one to buy! If anyone has an advice or suggestions here, they'd be greatly appreciated. Also, if you know of other makes/models that seem to fit what I'm looking for, then please make suggestions. Many thanks in advance. PS: cheers to whoever wrote the sticky thread on 'buying your first bass' (or whatever it's called) - very useful.[/quote] I use both Ibanez and Fender (which is related to the Squier of course). Your best bet is to go track these instruments down and have a play - they are two totally different instruments and one of them will probably grab your attention more than the other. The other thing to consider is perhaps picking up a used instrument - you tend to get far more bass for your money that way...

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='1025947' date='Nov 16 2010, 03:16 PM']Having to deal with crap stage mics can bring problems in itself (so you should be ok here!) I once started recording a drum track and I noticed that one of the drum mics wasn't working. It took me ages to figure out why. Turns out I accidentaly switched the mic off when I was putting it in the mic holder [/quote] We've got about a dozen mics - two of them have switches and have caused similar problems in the past. We just switched them on and stuck a loop of insulating tape behind the switch to hold it in place - visually you can see the switch is on and it removes the problem.