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Gave Blondie another go after being somewhat underwhelmed at their Newsnight gig. It was marginally better than last time but I suspect they're now a band with a bright future behind them.

Possibly because 'watts' are whatever a manufacturer decides they are instead of having a definition like all other measurements.

Both for me, it's the only way I can keep a roof over my head.

These solderless connectors aren't a new thing - they appear every few years for a while and then disappear again. I used to sell them back in the 80's.

I bought one of these http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/cable-strippers/2620151/?origin=PSF_412527|cav over 20 years ago and it's fab for removing outer sleeves. On the inner conductive sleeve and insulating sleeves I just use a Stanley knife blade.

[quote name='Annoying Twit' timestamp='1403815465' post='2486851'] I wonder if the pentacle is original. [/quote] Nope.

It's not a new design, just an alternative use for an existing item. I doubt you could successfully register this with the patent office even if you were determined enough to pay the initial £60 charge.

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1403788766' post='2486396'] I know that some might think this is a dodgy looking bass but out of interest, how do you measure how rough a badger's RRRs is?? [/quote]

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1403776361' post='2486142'] Resignation of the body is superb [/quote] I think he means that the bloke who made it quit halfway through...

Depends if it's actually a pot or a rotary encoder. If it's an encoder then replacing it with a pot isn't an option.

[quote name='ahpook' timestamp='1403610409' post='2484385'] Just be careful of those smoothing caps folks...watch where your fingers are going when you touch the underside of the board ! [/quote] +1 It's unpleasant. I now habitually use a couple of big wirewound resistors wrapped in shrinksleeve with flyleads coming out to discharge smoothing caps.

We pay for all of our own personal consumables (strings, leads, straps etc) and put 10% of the fees aside to pay for replacing\maintaining the rest of the gear. Once a year we sit down and take a dispassionate look at what we've got equipment wise and decide if we need to plan for an upgrade. If we do, then we do it. If we don't then we leave a suitable amount in the kitty and split the surplus out between ourselves.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1403610294' post='2484383'] Am I the only person who thought this was about kilts that needed soldering? [/quote] Only if your sanity was in flux...

Ours gets to the venue 30 minutes before the rest of us do and he's just about finished by then. There's nothing worse than trying to set up around a pile of half assembled scaffolding.

[quote name='Thunderbird' timestamp='1403439655' post='2482647'] Hi I am no soldering expert but I have an antex 40W kit and it is bloody hopeless the cable is extremely short[/quote] Rubbish. Your arms are too long.

Ex electronics engineer here, still using the Antex iron I bought well over 25 years ago.

It's off of the jack socket - diagram below.

When I first joined BC I used the notification e-mails for everything - I just used to click them to get sent to the appropriate page, replied to the topic and closed the window afterwards. It was just more convenient than logging onto the site and tracking down posts that people had replied to me on.

It's a previously well documented topic. The choices currently are: 1) Toggle your reply pane to 'basic' mode. 2) Install a browser other than IE. This problem is not isolated to BassChat, it impacts any site that uses the version of IP Board software we are currently using.

The intonation would be factory set with a particular gauge of string and action - any variation from those parameters and things get difficult. It is possible to make a compensated bridge, but it takes a lot of fiddling and you wouldn't want to do it more than once.

Ah. Well looking at the RB9 manual it specifies a T2A. 'T' fuses are designed to allow a power surge as the unit switches on ('T' stands for Time Delay). 'F' fuses are designed to blow as soon as their power rating is exceeded ('F' stands for Fast blow). You 'might' get away with using an F5A instead of a T2A, but it's a crude workaround and by no means certain to work. I'd seriously put the right fuse in there before trying to pursue a warranty repair. Yes, Maplin do them - I'm presuming they're about 20mm long? http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/2a-time-delay-glass-20mm-fuse-10-pack-gl62s

Last ditch attempt at a simple solution... This fuse you replaced - are you sure you replaced it with the exact same type? From what I can see, the original fuse was labelled [b]T[/b]2A - if you replaced it with an [b]F[/b]2A then it'll blow immediately.

Flight cases for everything except the piles of XLR leads which live on a hose reel.

I'd be inclined to put my amp in the wardrobe and my bass under the bed - it'll sit waiting quite patiently.

[quote name='Cameronj279' timestamp='1402446795' post='2473694'] You seem sad to be giving up. That to me says that you shouldn't. Of course I'm not going to tell anybody what to do but if something makes me unhappy, I wouldn't do it. [/quote] +1 How many 'Introductions' do we see that read along the lines of 'gave up playing x years ago and just getting back into it now after many years regretting it'?