dmccombe7

[quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1427898466' post='2735619'] Pledge does bring the samll feature of making your bass totally impossible to spray with any kind of paint or lacquer at any time in the future. This is because the silicone in the spray will repel any spirit based finishes. You're not alone in advocating this approach, so each to their own. Good luck [/quote] i wasn't aware of that ? Mmmm

Saw him on this tour at Sunderland. Peter Frampton playing gtr and Big Country support who were exceptional. Dave

always keep a metric and imperial allen key set in your tool kit. You never know where the bits are made these days Dave

[quote name='3below' timestamp='1427837760' post='2734988'] My Gibson SG chocolate brown was satin. I have used Briwax dark wax polish on it and it is now developing a nice (IMO) lustre rather like my Warwicks. I like it, is easy to keep looking nice. [/quote] +1 on Briwax My Warwick Thumb was always done with Warwick Beeswax until few years ago when a local luthier with an excellent reputation was doing some electronic mods told me to use Briwax as it stops your hand sticking to back of the neck when sweating. The other big advantage is it allows the wood to breathe better than the beeswax and as mentioned by 3below it gives a really nice satin finish which is more natural on the bass. The bass doesn't have that greasy feel either just after polishing. My Overwater (avator pic) i was told to use furniture polish like Pledge which seems to work well on this type of smooth satin finish. Haven't tried the briwax on it yet but might Dave

not more headings. Keep it simple. Clear titles would save a lot of hassle. No point in making the site over complicated. Dave

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1425869423' post='2711689'] Here is an easy way to set up a bass, with household tools that should give you a very playable bass and a pretty standard setup. Tools need are a 4mm allen key, a 2.5 mm allen key and a 2mm allen key. Also a small allen key for the bridge saddle adjustment. Finally a standard business card like the ones from a taxi company not a plastic credit card etc they are too thick. Of course if you can invest in the correct tools but this method is fine for getting a bass in playing condition, for someone with limited tools. First tune your bass normally then fret at the first fret and then with your elbow of your right arm hold down the e string on the last fret. This is so you can check the relief of the neck, place the business card corner first in between the 7th fret of the E string while its still held down at the first and last fret. It should slide in nicely if it doesn't fit in as the gap is too small then the neck is too straight and needs more relief, if it fits in but there is also a gap the neck has too much relief (too bent). the card should just fit in there nicely maybe a very slight drag. Business cards tend to be around .010 - .015" in size which is around about the average in most factory specs for relief. If you tighten the truss rod turning it right it will make the gap smaller, left for increasing the gap. This is of course while your looking at the nut right on if your holding the bass tightening looks like your going left and vice versa!. Assuming the truss rod access is in the headstock. Ok so turn the allen key small turns at a time, then check the relief as above, remember each time you tighten or loosen the truss rod you must put the A string back and re tune all the strings so you get an accurate reading of the relief. Its time consumming and can sometimes be a pain in the bum but has to be done right. Once you have the relief set, then we adjust the bridge saddle to alter the final string action (height). There are a two different areas to measure the string height at the 12th and 17th fret i suggest if you play hard we go for the measurements at the 12th if you play lighter the 17th fret. There is also of course the fact nearly everyone likes a different string height but, 2.5mm - 2mm is about standard. To measure the height get your 2.5mm allen key and i will assume you have chosen to measure from the 12th fret. and without fretting the string measure the height of the E string from top of the fret to the bottom, and adjust at the bridge saddle so again the allen key slides nicely in and out with very slight drag. Make sure the bridge saddle is level it does not need to be angled, also while taking measurements make sure the bass is in relativly the same position you play, as necks move slights amounts at different angles. Ok So once the E is at 2.5mm you can set the A, D and G in this way the final G string should be 2mm. So maybe E and A could be 2.5mm and D and G 2mm in height from the top if the 12th fret to the bottom of the string. And again after every single small movement of the strings you make at the bridge every time before the height is rechecked it need to be put back into tune. The bass other than now needing to be intonated should be in very reasonable playing condition. If you dont have a 2.5mm allen key a 3/32" one gives you about 2.4mm. Feel free to set the string height higher or lower, but using allen keys or even drill bits do a good job of measurements. 4mm is the heights action that could be considered playable, under 2mm is low but the lower you go the more buzzing you might get if you hit the strings hard. Buzzing from frets 1 to 7 indicate too little relief, buzzing in the higher frets indicate to low an action, buzzing all over might indicate just that your playing too hard for the setup. I could write a full on essay about various other set up problems and remedies. Watch setup videos, read my little guide and hopefully it will all make sense. Hope what ive written helps. [/quote] This is good and how i generally set mine up as a starting point. Dave

The setting i have is from the standard setting which historically has always suited my playing. That was my starting point and if ok i tended to leave it there. I think all my fretted basses are set up same way with 2.5mm at 12th fret on E and 2mm on G but i don't seem to get it on any other bass altho i don't use them live as often as my Jazz. Maybe i just need to eaze off a bit on my playing as it definately does affect how fast i can play. The harder i hit the slower i play which is a common problem with many finger style bassists. I did note that my fingers were a bit aching after rehearsal on Sat which is unusual for me so perhaps more volume less power from fingers and let the amp do the work is the solution here. I've ordered the gauge up from my current D'Addario nickels (normally EXL190) and gone for their most common gauge EXL170's. Will see if that helps. From there its possible bass set up changes might be required. Dave

The mistake i made many yrs ago was thinking this was based on output wattage converted to mains amp rating but its not the same thing. If it doesn't work then we're "goosed" mate. Dave

I usually only get this when i'm engrossed in the moment and really going for it sometimes pushing the strings too hard by sound of it. In the past when using steelwound strings i used to burst the skin to pint it looked like Gene Simmons was playing my bass. Now that i'm using Nickel strings its more comfortable. I've adjusted the pick ups to the recommended height from Fender and Warwick altho i might experiment with that a bit. Dave

cheers 40Hz i was hoping it was something like that and it lets me look at solutions. I might try heavier gauge strings to see if the reduced string vibration might help. Will take the gauge up a notch to try. Failing that i'll need to try and play lighter i guess. Dave

Tried switching the comp off and still same but that is the perfect description of what it sounds like. Over-compression. The Ampeg has compression too but that was turned off. Dave

just checked and states 4A slow blow. Dave

check the ampeg site as they produce manuals and various drawings on line. I got drawing of my SVT4 Pro from them. worth a try. Dave

[quote name='CamdenRob' timestamp='1427120723' post='2725945'] Well if my Peterbuilt ever actually arrives it'll hopefully be close to my perfect jazz LIned Fretless, matched H/S, DiMarzio Js & stack knobs. [/quote] Is Peterbuilt not an American truck icon ? never heard of them doing basses. Where's my google Dave

Does it have a 110V power option which would go to different tapping on TX. Could try it with a portable 110V tx to see if that works altho think you have ID'd the fault anyways. I recently had my AmpegSVT4 Pro upgraded from 110V to 230V tx. Its an older model and no TX tapping point. All soldered directly under insulation. Cost me £265 but its an original Ampeg tx. Dave

i get some fret buzz if not thru an amp or low "home" volume but it doesn't come thru the amp. Dave

I've been playing my goto Geddy Lee Jazz bass for approx 5yrs now. Nothing has changed physically on the bass since i set it up 5yrs ago ie string height, neck relief (i check regularly when changing strings) I have changed from Fender nickels to D'Addario nickel same gauge. What i'm finding is that when i play hard i've noted the tone drops out quite a bit. Loses the bottom end quite significantly. Not getting any significant fret buzz and string height is typically 2.5mm on E and 2 on G strings. I run the bass full on both pick ups and tone control i vary between full and 50%. Its as if the pick-ups are dropping out ? Playing "softly" seems ok - i play finger style with occasionally my nails to get a sharp edge when needed. I don't notice it with other basses i have. Its fine when at home and things a lot quieter. I have started using an Ampeg SVT4 Pro with GAIN at 2 o'clock and tone controls virtually 12 o'clock or there abouts. I don't get the Gain limit light coming on. I'm using 2off Bergantino AE112 cabs Anyone any thoughts or advice ? Dave

can't really get into them i'm afraid.

was once told after a gig with a classic heavy rock band that i had a weird sound ? when quizzed the guy said i sounded like a pick player but i use my fingers. Secret is grow your fingernails enough to catch the string and give it that edge. Nice tho and i took it as a compliment. Dave

[quote name='mr zed' timestamp='1427154357' post='2726636'] I like it here. That is all. [/quote] +1 says it all really Cheers for that one Mr Zed Dave

[quote name='ubit' timestamp='1427137168' post='2726310'] It's a bit annoying when seasoned members criticise someone for posting about something that may have been talked about many times in the past. Short of trawling through every thread to check, how are newer members to know, it's been talked about? Forums need new blood and if someone wants to ask which strings you prefer, I will partake in that discussion because they are looking for feedback. I'm not going to tell them to go and look at such and such a thread because it's all been done before. Let's have more understanding that not everyone knows what's been posted before [/quote] +1 on this too. Dave

After getting a 2nd hand Ampeg SVT4 Pro amp modified from 110V to 230V last week i took to a rehearsal on Sat with my lightweight Berg cabs and whow what a sound - clear but loads of depth to match. Full band commented on how great a tone i had. Ampeg was running almost flat with my Jazz bass. Brilliant 2nd hand purchase and altho heavy it does exactly what Ampeg says it will and is "the sound in your head" Well chuffed so far. Dave

Homebase and B&Q sell plastic plasterboard fixings which will expand at the back of the plasterboard when screwed tight. I used this method with a 2.4m length of hardwood skirting board which had a slight taper on the top 25mm. I have 5 basses hanging from top length and 2 from the lower length in spare room. I used 2off screws at each end and a single screw approx a 1/3 from each end using the plastic wall fixings. Only did it last week but it all seems pretty sturdy. i used the Hercules metal wall bracket with 3off screw attachment to wood rather than the one with the wooden plaque. On hindsight i might have used 2 screws one above the other at each screwed point for peace of mind which would give me 8 screws in total holding it up. The ones from Screwfix i've tried in the past and wasn't too keen on them as i found the plasterboard tends to break up when you screw them into the plaster board but that may have been down to poor technique. There is another metal type which expands behind the plasterboard but have no experience of these at all. They tend to use this type to fit kitchen cabinets tho. Dave

yep there does seem to be less fun comments made or maybe i'm just missing them. ? Dave

i'm not on BC as often as i used to be but that's down to being a bit busy elsewhere. i do find that when i need to post something i have to spend too much time working out what section it fits into otherwise you get the aggresive comments about it being in the wrong section. That's more of a minor niggle that comes with age. A "Meldrew" moment Too many sub-sections when one major heading would cover more subjects. Many items now get missed because people can't be bothered searching thru the many sub-sections for new items. When i first joined there were a handful of headings and you just went thru the topics that interested you. There is an element of "Big Brother" now where Moderators seem to intervene on occasion for no real reason IMO altho it is rare but more than they used to. i still find a lot of helpful and genuine people replying to most posts tho. There's a lot to gain from the BC'ers knowledge and advice. All in all its a great forum and very much worthwhile. Just think it needs to be simplified. Seems that every time new people come on board they want to make more and more complicated changes just to make their mark on the system. Its like that in every walk of life tho and could be classed as progress. That's my wee greetin completed. Back to enjoying the forum Dave