fretmeister

If I’m getting paid then I absolutely take a 2nd bass and a 2nd head and/or a suitable di unit to go direct and get through it. A wedding gig would be the worst gig to have a catastrophic gear failure. It’s just a gig to us, but it’s supposed to be the best day of their lives for the happy couple. Backup gear doesn’t have to be as expensive as main gear. A Harley Benton bass and a di unit will let the gig continue.

I decided to blind order the Markbass AG1000.

Barefaced Super Twin or a One10 depending on the gig.

I've had 500w and 800w MB heads before so I'm sure it will be loud enough!

@ped I tried drop D. It's right on the limit of floppiness. I play as lightly as possible and I use a ramp and I think I could get away with it. If you play harder or with a pick, I'm not convinced. But the super long scale E is a 101 rather than the 89 so it may work quite well with buying that string separately.

This. It's why my J is a Sandberg.

Well, I decided to order the AG1000. Hopefully with me in a day or 2.

Well the OP hasn't been back so I suspect he got upset that not many were on "his side."

I've been looking at a new amp, and I've got a short list and I'd like to try them in person. There's a PMT close by and I'm an hour from Brum so that's ok too. But I can't seem to find any shop, or even a couple of shops not too far from each other with stock of bass amps over about £400. All I want to do is try a couple of Mark Bass models and an ABM600 to decide. I don't particularly want to order and return 3 times and I haven't got the funds to order 3 amps at once to A/B them at home. Is the component shortage affecting more expensive models compared to the lower powered stuff? Or are shops just not stocking them at the moment as a consequence of a lack of gigs over the last 2 years?

It's not a shorty thing. It's a set up thing.

Does the ABM600 have the annoying notched master volume control like the RM series has?

The LMT interests me at the moment. Might be because I'm on a bit of a Joe Dart kick at the moment and he seems to use one a lot.

Has it got wheels?

I'm really liking them. I haven't tried drop D with them. I have a feeling they might be a bit floppy. I'll try it when I get a chance. There's some reasonably close photos in this thread

I’ve had an F1, LM2, and a Marcus Goldline. I like the brand a lot. The F1 was a bit sterile for me. The EQ on the Marcus suited me better than the LM2 but both sounded great. I’d like to try the new Andrew Gouche AG1000 and the newish vintage heads. After using them with a variety of cabs I have come to the conclusion that they work best with MB cabs.

No. Never my no1 even to a friend And nothing ever to a friend of a friend. Only caveat being a monetary deposit equal to the full replacement value, returnable when I get the bass back in the same condition as it left.

This was how I used to do it 2 Output bass. Output 1 into the Ampeg SVT-BSP. 2 sounds blended together. Output 2 into the L6 Bas Pod ProXT. Another 2 sounds blended together. Those into Yamaha P5000S Power amp. 1 cab for each preamp. Now I do that all in a Helix. But - In the past I've one it with just a LS-2 and some pedals and 1 amp. The secret is to get a compressor on the clean side. Overdrive naturally has compression so the clean note decays faster than the driven one so it sounds un-natural. So compress the clean as well and match the decays so it sounds like 1 signal. There is no optimum blend percentage. Each drive / fuzz will need something different. So set the clean tone first. Then go with a 50/50 blend on the LS-2 and then tweak the level of the drive to work with the clean. It's more about volumes than percentages. But always start from the compressed clean because that is what will always be there underneath.

Another vote for a Super Twin. It's a lovely cab. I do everything from big band jazz to metal with it, paired with an Ashdown RM800 Evo 2 head. The tilt back wheels are excellent too.

That assumes the owner wants the extra for playing in the traditional way. Perhaps the guy wanted it to pluck the strings over the board like on a DB. Or maybe the extra is being used for tapping with the right hand. Or for both.

If it's a boss or similar the velcro will not stick to the rubber base for long. On older Boss pedals with thin rubber they can be turned upside down so the velcro can go on the metal directly. On newer ones the rubber is too thick. But you can get blank metal replacements for about £7 and keep the originals safe for re-sale.

They are not that thick. Re-carving to be flatter would mean making the centre of it really thin, possibly to the point of it breaking down the centre. The more I look at it, the more it looks like a 7.25 inch radius board (as per old Fenders) that has just been cut with an extension / extra length. I don't see why it would be a waste. There are other extra long 'board basses out there. The Ibanez Portamento and the Zon Hyperbass just as 2 examples at opposite ends of the money spectrum.

The radius isn't nearly small enough to be from a DB. I quite like it.

Boss LS-2 will let you have a clean blend with everything and set the levels. It's one of those really boring but amazing problem solving pedals.

Or get a bass with 2 outputs or use a splitter box and do the Entwhistle / Sheehan / Wolfenwotsit split rig thing.