fretmeister

I never overplay. The rest of the band are underplaying.

so tell me, if we don’t have a PA and don’t need one because only 2 out of about 25 of us are amplified, how am I wrong?

We are able to do that, yes. But it's still nearly £300 over here for a new one, and looking at the used sales on ebay and Reverb the used ones of the current model are only hitting £120. That's terrible loss of value.

I disagree with that quite a lot. We all have the right to "quiet enjoyment" of our homes. That means we shouldn't be forced to consider ear plugs etc due to the actions of others. That isn't quiet enjoyment - that's having to take steps to deal with the selfishness of others.

That's a kind offer but my passport has expired and I'm not convinced I can get that far north without one!

It's a difficult one. Even my favourite music is annoying if I don't want to listen to anything. I'm now lucky enough to be in a detached house, but when I was in flats or terraced places I either made sure my neighbours were out or I played at a volume low enough that it could not be heard through the walls at all. In the absence of agreement with a neighbour I don't think anything else is fair. I do realise that many will disagree with me, but that is one of the reasons I moved to a pretty poor condition detached and then slowly did it up (still happening after more than a decade - as I tell my wife, everything is in the planning and I don't like to rush things).

I can't ditch them. My band doesn't have a PA. I mean that literally. We don't own one and we don't use one either. 20+ trumpets / trombones / saxes of all types / clarinets don't need PA support. It's only the bass and the electric piano that need amplification.

I've only had Ibanez glow in the dark dots and they were awful. I had them drilled out and replaced with bright white ones instead.

I really want to try one now!

Definitely email Dave Green. He's really helpful. Last year he modded my RM800evo2, got it turned round on the day it arrived with him, and wouldn't take any money either.

There is no need. There are at least 3 other string makers of roundcore strings who disagree with your statement that all strings other than roundwound hexcore should never be cut.

Did you even read all that tosh? It really doesn't say what you say it does. He says he doesn't recommend that a "beginner" does that. There are many others like DR, Newtone, Thomastik who all make roundcore strings and are happy that they will be cut, and they give instructions as to how to do it properly. Maybe he's only referring to GHS products, but it is certainly not true to say that roundcore strings should never be cut. They just have to be cut properly. https://www.drstrings.com/proper-string-installation

Also - if you want BEAD can you not just ignore the G? If it's ringing when you don't want it to, either learn to mute properly or put a bit of foam under that string only at the bridge.

If you cannot afford to buy a different bass I would say trade this one for a 4 string.

This is interesting. At a basic level it's a blend pedal not unlike many others, but on this there is a 4 band EQ on the wet signal only, a polarity switch, and a contour switch on the clean. There are a few demos with about 5 different drive pedals on their page and YT channel https://www.damnationaudio.com/pedals/p/dirtfixer-bass-blender-and-equalizer I'm quite tempted - I do like blending things a lot.

Hope you got a discount for the missing frets!

Do the hand cream thing?

Nonsense. Every roundcore DR String packet shows how to cut them. Newtone even have a video instruction of how to cut roundcore strings to the required length without them unravelling.

It depends on the core construction. Round core strings will unravel if you cut them before putting a steep bend in them. Hex cores will usually stay ok as the edges of the hex shape gives the wrap something to grip on. But even then hex can come apart too. It's always better to take the same approach to both, just in case. So when you have decided on the right length do the tight right-angle bend for the bit that goes into the centre post hole before you cut it. Some strings - like DR and Newtone come with instructions for this, but really it's the best way to do them for every brand.

Get another Hartke of the same model. Bigger cone size = more bass just hasn't been true for decades. But mixing cones (make and size) always leads to EQ compromises that you just don't need. The perfect EQ for the 4x10 will be different for any other cab. So just get another of the same. It's almost always the best choice. Then if you want more bass, approach it from the other way. Cut the treble / mids and work on the low end only, then add back the mids and treble.

Damn it. I was hoping it would be a more sensible size.

I love this thread. The ray5 neck shape is my absolute favourite for a 5 string. Amazing how much of a difference that 0.5mm narrower nut can make! I've had 2, but alas unless EBMM find a way of making them about 7lb I won't be having another one. Or I win the lottery and can get Shuker to make me something very similar!

The Behringer is very good. The Caline is another perfect copy. I just wish they’d do the V2 with the mid control, or the paradriver.

So little of a difference you’d need scientific instruments to realise it.

I know there's loads of clones of the V1 BDDI, but are there any clones of the Paradriver? I quite fancy trying one if there is and this way I won't lose a lot of money if I don't like it. ta