aldude

Wow, wish I had one of those!! Glad you're enjoying it Chris. Yeah, the knobs are a bit pants but that's fairly common even for high end basses in my experience. But why do they put crummy 10p knobs on a £1500 instrument? Who knows. (I'm looking at you, Spector!)

Was going to play an outdoor gig... but during the previous performance, some brass thing, the generator cut out - it had run out of fuel. Our guitarist had to drive a veeeeeery long way to get some to fill it up again!

Interesting chat on here about DC and AC which I haven't noticed before as I never read this thread. Unfortunately I believe that what is and isn't DC is rather subjective, as it all depends on the length of time you are talking about. If you're talking about a clipping waveform, like the one posted on page 2, then it's not DC as far as I understand. It's a waveform, and to consider whether it's got DC you need to consider it over several cycle periods, i.e. several up/down cycles. Over say 5 or so, the waveform is perfectly symmetrical (if that is that the right word) around zero voltage so there is actually no DC in there at all, ever. In other words, the negative bit is basically the same as the positive bit, so no DC. If you're considering just the "flat bit", ok strictly speaking it's DC but then every waveform, ever, including a pure sinusoid, has some DC in it if you're considering only a small part of the waveform, as it's not symmetrical (or whatever the right word is) about zero voltage. This is obviously silly and any electronic engineer knows not to consider DC across a period of time that is anything less than the period of the waveform, because it would give a result that is misleading. For the record it's quite hard to see visually if a waveform has DC over a period of time if it's complex, some integration will be required. If the integration shows a positive or negative result, instead of a zero, then that result is the DC value. Hopefully this image will give a good example: here is a waveform with a pure sinusoid component and a DC component. This actually has lots of DC - because the negative bit is not the same as the positive bit ... in fact there is no negative bit! The DC value is 8 volts. [url="http://people.sinclair.edu/nickreeder/eet155/PageArt/waveSinePlusDC.gif"]http://people.sinclair.edu/nickreeder/eet155/PageArt/waveSinePlusDC.gif[/url] I think there has been some confusion as to the language originally used - perhaps a lot of the irrelevant discussion could have been avoided if the term "DC" was replaced with something else ("flat bit" will do ).

[quote name='elhambre' timestamp='1338112237' post='1669653'] Finally got mine! I need to tweak a lot more, I'm a huge fan of fuzzes and distorted sounds and i think they don't come easy. Also I have the M13 so i miss some things on the B3, also found some very useful. Like it to put on a 15" laptop carrybag with my Markbass and have my amp and fx ready to go!!! I jut find a thing that doesn't like, if you want to hold for patch, tuner or looper the B3 switches on or off the stomp didn't find a way to fix it. [/quote] I guess that's a compromise, so the effect on/off is instant, and the unit does not wait to see if it's a long press before turning on/off the effect. If it was the other way, the effect would not turn off when going into e.g. patch select mode, but then there would be a slightly longer delay when turning fx on/off - i.e. it would turn off when the foot comes off the switch instead of when it goes on. Probably better the way Zoom did it, just an unfortunate compromise!

There's also a tweeter control on the Barefaced cabs (well there is on the S12T, not sure about the Midget) so you can totally turn it off if it's not for you. Also the amount of low end shouldn't bust the tweeter as there is (probably) a crossover in there to direct only the higher frequencies to it. This is probably less of a protection issue than the fact that a tweeter just can't knock out the low frequencies very well so it's a waste of power.

I used to have a SP210, it actually sounds really really good (not sure if other Orange cabs are like this) and went plenty low enough particularly for its size. However one on its own just wasn't loud enough for a loud rock band. I guess with two drivers with the output of one driver means it's a lot less sensitive. I was actually [i]that[/i] close to buying multiple Orange SP cabs before I discovered Barefaced EDIT: "actually sounds really really good" being IMHO, of course!

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1337341561' post='1658428'] Alex's cabs go so loud with any decent amp that you really shouldn't be getting near their max SPL, unless you're playing Knebworth. The issue of which cab is louder is utterly irrelevant to those of us who play in pub bands. [/quote] This! My two cents, I have both the Compact and S12T, the Compact is voiced a little lower whereas the S12T needs the lows dialled in if you just use that, but then as Happy Jack says it's the other way round for the mids, as the S12T has a bucketload but the Compact is less emphatic in that area, but can of course be dialled in. I don't have a midget but then I use both the Compact and S12T for the best of both worlds!

[quote name='WalMan' timestamp='1336340543' post='1644336'] This from the same seller looks good too - [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tuscany-Silverado-Bass-Guitar-Amber-Basswood-Body-Maple-Neck-Active-Psv-Switch-/290696628967?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item43aede8ae7"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item43aede8ae7[/url] [/quote] Wow, this looks like an Aerodyne ... tribute!!