B.Flat

OK, thanks to all responders ! If anyone can point me to a supplier of piezo crystals in the future it would be great to hear from you . Brian

Here are some photos of the piezo bridge.You can see the white wire entering the saddle to which the piezo element should be fixed. The third photo shows the radius-ended oblong recess which is about 3mm square and about 2mm wide. There is a little grub screw to hold it in place, top left in the fourth photo. I don't have an original p;element to show because the previous owner has obviously had a go at it and glues the things in with superglue, so they have been destroyed in getting them out. I am hoping someone can suggest a positive course of action before I loose the will to live ! I really want to restore this bass as in all other respects is amazing and almost identical to a TRB 4P which I have always regretted selling.

This is the bass. Does anyone recognise the model edition, or have any advice on the piezo subject ?

Hi ikay, this site address appears to be in the Antipodes. I am in France, but cannot find a Yamaha address for bass guitar spares in Europe. There are sites but not with in-depth spares info. Any further advice ? Brian

Apologies for slow response. The bass is YAMAHA MOTION LB 2. I can only find two examples on the internet, neither being exactly like mine. It has a piezo bridge and led markers on an ebony fret board. The examples I found have either or, but neither has both. Maybe someone can identify the exact model for me. I think, from the pickups and layout it is probably the same electronics as the TRB 4P, which I think appeared later, but I can't be sure. The Yamaha serial N°. regime I find hard to negotiate. Anyway, I think I need a new piezo insert for the saddle, but I have no idea how to go about obtaining the correct one. Unfortunately I am not in UK.

That is "All ideas", not another Chinese internet firm !!

Hello all. I have a Yamaha bass with a non-working piezo saddle. Is this possible to repair/replace ? Allideas and info. gratefully received

Thanks for the replies. Bill, I thank you for your reply and of course it is correct. However, I would still like, if possible, to know if there is a good way to temporarily block a port, short of screwing an air-tight cover over it.

Once again, advice sought. I have a 2 X 10" Eminence Deltalight cab, each speaker in its own compartment. Both compartments have a rear port. The low end response is very good, but used on its own there is too much bottom end. The ports were added to improve the response but now I want to use the cab for small room rehearsal, by itself. I have a bi-amped system and would like to be able to block the port in one compartment to return it to a sealed enclosure. So, ideas are sought to be able to block this port, but not permanently. Does it have to be totally air-tight or could the vent be tightly stuffed with "stuff" ? Any clever ideas ?

Hi all. Might there be anyone out there who has a circuit diagram for a Warwick preamp, ref; MEC BEC2 H LM 2002, three knob version. I have tried to obtain it from Warwick but I am told they do not publish their circuits, despite have a couple from the internet, but not this one. The reason I need it is that I want to add a passive tone pot, pre-active circuitry, which will work globally over the active tone controls as well; Any comments on that would be great. Brian

I was assuming the balance control would effect single pickup options ?

Thanks everyone for the advice so far. Yes, I think I am in danger of going over the top, but I will explain a little. I modded an Ibanez RS924. I put DiMarzios (jb +pb), a series/parallel/mute switch for each pickup,a Stellartone bass eleven working over both passive and active (separate switch) options and Volume and Balance concentric pot +three-way toggle.Photos attached Best sounding bass I ever had but eventually the weight was too much for my elderly shoulder ! I now have a couple of early Warwick Fortress ones, one active, one passive. The passive is the 33rd of the first production run. This is the one I want to mod; without closing the door on return to orig. The plan is to put a Warwick three knob preamp with a series/parallel option on a rotary in the fourth hole. On reflection on the above comments I would be happy with 1) jb + pb both parallel, 2)both series, 3)jb parallel+pb series 4)jb series + pb parallel. What rotary would do that ?

Is there anyone out there who could send me an easy-for-idiots wiring diagram for a series /parallel circuit ? I have a DiMarzio PB & JB pickups, on which I would like to have series/parallel switching individually, and also between the two collectively, if that is possible. The only caveat is that I want to do this with a rotary switch. I do not know what rotary switch would be required, so advice needed there. Anyone who can help on this would be greatly appreciated!

I need advice. I have deteriorating hearing, resulting in playing too loud. I am hoping I could use the Fischer Amps In Ear Stick and some ear monitors of the right quality connected to post eq line out on my amp to correct this. So, should this work OK ? When doing the bigger gigs I could also use it connected to the monitor mix from FOH, yes ? All advice gratefully received.

Hi. Thanks for the replies. I need to fill you in a bit more. I previously owned an IBANEZ RS924 bbass from 1980. I wanted to use a Stellartone Tonestyler; I contacted dan at Stellartone and he said that the unit would only work corectly if ll the active circuitry was south of the Tonestyler; Well I set it up and , for me it was perfect sonically. I had an active/passive switch, series/parallel switches for two DiMarzio pu's (P & J) I had fitted plus the two band bass/treble cut and boost. The Tonestyler worked fantastically well in both passive and active modes. Only problem was physical.the bass was too heavy for my elderly shoulders. So now I have a vintage WARWICK Fortress One, active, which I love, and I want to re-create the great set-up I had on the IBANEZ . Ergo I have a DiMarzio DP 126 set,, P/J, and have aquired a MEC three-pot preamp, which gives the same set-up as the original 4 pot set-up, but leaves me with an extra mounting hole for the Tonestyler. So now I need to know how to wire it so that all the active circuitry is south of the Stellartone, as on the Ibanez. I previously had a very clear circuit diagraùm for the IBANEZ, which Dan helped me to navigate, but I am a bit lost to know what to do with the WARWICK, if indeed it is possible to wire it as the IBANEZ. A bit long-winded but I hope clear!