GregBass

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1338382721' post='1673594'] It must be a constant, otherwise the amp simply won't work. Hook up an tone generator to an amp with flat response, the amp to a speaker. Measure the voltage as you sweep across the spectrum, it will remain constant even though the speaker impedance is not. If it's not constant the amp, or generator, does not have flat response, and you'll see the same voltage fluctuation into a resistive load. [/quote] Ah Bill - you forgot to add "under test conditions". I read your statement as meaning that under normal usage the output voltage of an amplifier is constant. If that's the case, you won't be getting no music out of it

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1338376982' post='1673452'] Dunno if you are trolling on purpose, but pretty much all of this is wrong. Valve amps totally do make a massive difference, its more to do with the output transformer acting as a high pass than the valves themselves, but it means your power is massively more efficiently used and your cabs are less stressed, so you can get louder without farting out. Main thing to o is start by being clear in what you want to achieve. Also ignore anyone who says a bunch of stuff from the above quote. [/quote] Wow, man, you are really aggressive on here aren't you? So let's get this straight. You reckon it's OK to use a 25W speaker with a 500W amp? Do your speakers last more than a few weeks? You reckon that driving an amp to saturation doesn't cause clipping? That clipping is not "flattening off: at the peaks of the waveform? That valves don't sound "warmer" to most people? Congratulations - you have just rewritten the rules of science all on your own. maybe a Nobel prize comes next. For the OP - if you follow what this man says you will blow your speakers at the very least.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1338374667' post='1673395'] We are talking maximums. You only get one maximum under a given set of criteria. You could put out full power from an amp at the top or the bottom of its frequency band, but probably wouldn't want to do the top one. [/quote] Ah - I took the quote at face value (that the voltage must be constant). That was what I disagreed with. The output voltage of an amplifier is absolutely no constant.

OK there are a few rules that make for a good match: Ideally speakers should have a higher power rating than the amp driving them (check the amp power at the appropriate impedance for the cab) Always have an amp with plenty of power output. If you drive the amp to its limits, it will clip (the tops and bottoms of the waveforms are flattened, which effectively puts DC across your speakers for a short period) Check the frequency bandwidth of your cabs - down to 30Hz is what you should be looking for to give deep bass (all decent bass amps do this so you shouldn't need to check the amp). Valves and transistors produce different harmonics (higher frequency "overtones" of the fundamental frequency). To most people's ears, valves produce a warmer tone.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1338362718' post='1673144'] FWIW, in any discussion regarding amps/speakers/impedance, I'll always believe the Basschatters who actually [u][b]make [/b][/u]these things - successfully! - for a living (i.e. Bill and Alex). [/quote] Smart move Jack. I used to teach electrical engineering principles to degree level, but only know the theory

[quote name='Bill Fitzmaurice' timestamp='1338317666' post='1672711'] An open circuit doesn't deliver a load. Within the operating load ranges actually presented by speakers amps must deliver a constant voltage, otherwise they simply won't work. [/quote] This cannot be true. At any specified frequency, the impedance of the speaker is fixed. That's how impedance is defined. If the voltage is constant and the impedance is fixed, then Ohm's Law tells us that the current must also be fixed, meaning that at any frequency, the power from the amp is always the same. This is clearly not the case.

Just ...... WOW

If you want blues stuff, early Fleetwood Mac could be good for you. Also, Check Berry.

From an electrical point of view, they supply power for the preamp. As long as they deliver 9V, they do the job. The only difference is how long they last before their voltage dips below what you preamp needs to give the output signal full amplitude. This is probably just another way of saying Duracell is the way to go

As watts are a linear power measure while your ears hear logarithmically, you actually need to muliply your power by 10 to make it "sound" twice as loud. Similarly, for the output efficiencies quoted each 3db increase represents a doubling of output air movement.

I use a 1x18 sub as part of my rig. It's a bastardised Electrovoice sA180, with the amp removed and the speaker replaced with a Fane. It puts the rumble under my Hartke 4x10 - bass players in the audience tend to think I have a great sound

I have been using a Tour 700 head for quite a while now - and it does what it says on the tin. Its pokey, loud and flexible. The octaver sounds like me after a heavy curry, and is unusable, but it has enough depth without that. If the price is right, I'd recommend it without hesitation. If you are looking for a Peavey 4x10, I have one that I am thinking of selling to fuel another bout of GAS (nothing to do with the Tour 700 octaver ). PM me if you want some more info on that.

Just for reference: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hayman-40-40-Bass-project-refurbishment-/120914478928?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1c27108750

[quote name='Highfox' timestamp='1337603866' post='1662532'] All this talk of valuable basses .. makes me wonder what Macca's original Hofner would fetch [/quote] I had a 61 Hofner Violin Bass. Played like a dog and sounded like someone kicking a cardboard box. Sold it for 15 quid - including its original case ((

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1337593467' post='1662319'] Yes, and no. For the Streamers the difference is obvious: the originals (and the Korean Pros) are curved, whereas the Rockbass is a slab. But for Corvettes the only obvious difference is the tiny writing on the headstock, unless you're looking at a natural finish and can tell one wood from another. [/quote] The Rockbass Corvette's that I have seen have a totally different neck too - I seem to remember them having a maple neck rather than the ovangkol of German made Warwicks - and they feel completely different.

I haven't done many deals yet - but it's here anyway

Am I the only one who finds it weird that people will pay a premium for worn new basses, but look for genuine old basses in mint condition? There's a phrase involving arses and faces here, isn't there?

I bought an MIM 60th anniversary P-bass in pretty damned good nick last week for a touch under 230. It was put on ebay by a shop which had it on display at 499!!!!

You could also take a look at: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=te44eWXd9pc An excellent mini series of demos.

[quote name='waynepunkdude' timestamp='1336646061' post='1648782'] That's mathematically impossible. [/quote] Hey - this is art, not science. My finger missed the 2 and hit the 3

I have a 1979 Rick 4001 that I would not let go. It's no longer my "go to" bass - that is a Warwick - but the Rick has been with me for 35 years now and is staying with me for a while yet

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1336589977' post='1648132'] passive as in passive pups and no preamp? hmm, if their is a preamp in there pull the volume to turn it off and see how that effects it. Other than that I would check the string heights. Also check the break angles at both the headstock and bridge end. The bridge is cool that you can effect height an break angle semi- independently. Oh and when you do all this set the EQ flat on your amp... if you're just using headphones it could be something to do with how they process bass frequencies.... [/quote] Indeed, it is purely passive. MEC jazz type pickups, no preamp. I do have an active Corvette too, but its in for a repair at the moment so I can't check it out. I have changed the strings and given the bass a setup. The headphones are for my home practise, and everything sounds good. It's when cranking it out through a full rig that the differences appear between basses. The Rick and Fenders sound fine, but the Warwick goes weedy on the top two strings. I will arrive early for this weekend's rehearsal and see if I can mess with the settings to improve things