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Billy Apple

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Everything posted by Billy Apple

  1. [quote name='danhkr' timestamp='1326465840' post='1497598'] Just to hijack the thread for a moment (because it's pretty current), I'm thinking of getting a mighty mite P neck for a MIM std P body (2004). Aside from drilling the holes, is the neck likely to fit straight in, or are any additional adjustments/routing likely to be required? [/quote] My neck slotted into the pocket very snug, tight but no jamming. There was no real gap at all around the curve of the neck and the body. I'm not bothering with any unnecessary routing, I thought the fit was pretty damn good.
  2. Thanks guys. This is all great stuff. Now my weekend project is sorted. Good idea with the strings Doc, and I've got clamps at the ready Mr F. Tell you what, I put the machine heads (erm, tuners) on last night.I drilled pilot holes, and the wood was rock-solid, and that was with an 18V Makita LXT. I cant imagine how you would screw neck bolts directly into the wood. I'm not telling you off, Gjones, but you've clearly got hands and forearms like King Kong, and I aint getting on the wrong side of you (Sir)! . But so far I've been very impressed with the wood and build quality of the neck.
  3. I've just bought a Mighty Mite P neck for my Bitsa P build. Need to drill the holes for the neck screws and fit to body. Not fitted a neck from scratch like this before, but I'm pretty competent with wood and tools. Anyone have any tips or secrets to ensure a smooth bolt-on? Thanks edit: spelling
  4. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1326231387' post='1494294'] [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl-QMuUQhVM[/media] [/quote] Didn't understand any of this.... It's all in French!
  5. Here's some further reading. Check out Dave's Bass Place, he sets a very high standard [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/158950-wishbass-lobe-on-order/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/158950-wishbass-lobe-on-order/page__fromsearch__1[/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/163574-ambrosia-maple-lobe-wishbass-re-vamp/page__fromsearch__1"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/163574-ambrosia-maple-lobe-wishbass-re-vamp/page__fromsearch__1[/url] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/152936-put-down-a-deposit-on-a-wishbass/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/152936-put-down-a-deposit-on-a-wishbass/[/url] [url="http://www.davesbassplace.com/DavesBassPlace/Refinishing.html"]http://www.davesbassplace.com/DavesBassPlace/Refinishing.html[/url]
  6. I've just bought 2 Lobes, and while I love the idea, believe me, you will be ticking all 3 boxes above with the one guitar. They do play straight out the box, and the sound is superb, so if you want to keep it like that, then fair enough, but at the least you will be looking at binning the strings it came with and perhaps a fret board level. The action on both mine was very acceptable, and in that sense there is little to do, if you want to get on and play it, that is. They get a bad press from many due to issues like not having a truss rod, but when you get one in your hand the necks are very solid. I find it very hard to put a flex in either of my necks, I can't see them going anywhere, Beware Mr Wishnevski when ordering, I think he ends up doing what he wants to do, and can be a bit grumpy if you are too prescriptive, saying that, the Bloodwood Lobe he built me is superb, although I ordered it unfinished, so lots of work to do. I deliberately got mine to expand my luthiering skill, with a view to building my own bass from scratch sometime, so it depends how far you want to go. I think the Kent Armstrong Pups they come with are fine, but the pots are a bit chatty. Of course most ditch the whole thing and put in pre-amps and the like. I quite enjoy the vol pot and nothing else thing. If you take the time, it seems that you can have a fantastic sounding, very individual instrument. But, IMHO getting a Wishbass is only the start. Don't forget you will get stung by Customs when it comes in the country, expect an extra £60-£70 What are you having him build you?
  7. I've had a look, but can only find USA listings. I'm on my mobile tho, and it can come up with funny results. I'll have a better look when I get home. Cheers guys
  8. [quote name='tayste_2000' timestamp='1326133742' post='1492751'] Still got the 1x18 to come [/quote] Awesome rig, Ste. What's the history with the Bass 200, how come Matamp did not develop this?
  9. Stewart bought my '51 MIM 'Mike Dirnt' P Neck. Completely and utterly hassle free transaction. Fast payment and great communication. Highly recommended.
  10. [quote name='Immo' timestamp='1325283817' post='1481860'] Personally, I don't like P's with rosewood fingerboards at all, and Tele headstock with rosewood is fairly close to 'abomination'.. [/quote] * *Crosses Immo off his list of who to try and sell his rosewood fingerboard, tele-headstock, P bass neck too*
  11. [quote name='Immo' timestamp='1325282756' post='1481845'] Would have already been on the way to me if it weren't for rosewood... [/quote] Isn't that just the thing? For some it's rosewood, for others it's maple. For me on a P bass, it always has to be rosewood, with the contrast it gives between head and body.
  12. I've probably missed it somewhere, but where are you based?
  13. [quote name='Johnston' timestamp='1325281030' post='1481821'] [url="http://www.xhefriguitars.com/page7.html"]http://www.xhefrigui....com/page7.html[/url] Bit of info on the Foto Flames. Including the infamous Hamburglar Necks. [/quote] I was just about to post that, but you beat me to it. Yes, Foto Flame body, but not neck. Neck, neck? I've got one up here somewhere for sale, don't you know
  14. [quote name='pst62' timestamp='1325261970' post='1481480'] This bloke will sort you out with a Mighty Mite neck, his name is Dave. I (like a few others on here) have bought off of him, he's a good bloke, very quick delivery too. [url="http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/bluebass320&ssPageName=STRK:MEFSX:SELLERID&_trksid=p3984.m1543.l2533"]http://myworld.ebay....984.m1543.l2533[/url] [/quote] I've just purchased a '70's logo rosewood P neck from his current crop. Not arrived yet (Xmas, New year, etc), but I emailed him about a couple of things and his replies were prompt and helpful, plus he's been in touch since the purchase.Will post about the neck soon as.
  15. I've got another neck on the way for my P Bitsa, so this one is now off and wrapped up warm in a blanket. Anyway, I took a picture of it on my kitchen bench with a straight edge on the fret-board.... [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/vXC2Hl.jpg[/IMG]
  16. [quote name='quimbymeat' timestamp='1323296366' post='1461843'] Thats it all done [/quote] Full of meaty goodness
  17. [quote name='Ben Jamin' timestamp='1325181533' post='1480710'] My brother's got a Matamp..... Can't wait for mine [/quote] I can't wait either, I reckon you're going to be amongst the first to get one round these parts, so pics up and a review soon as, please! Which head has your brother got?
  18. [quote name='discreet' timestamp='1325177917' post='1480649'] Wow, that's like an iconic piece of sculpture. Very neat job! I bet it sounds the business, too. [/quote] The sound is very very good. One of my better life decisions
  19. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1325181072' post='1480700'] Tung oil is oil from Tung nuts, you have to thin it with white spirit and build it up from 10% solution to pure oil over months for the ultimate finish. Rustins Danish oil is Tung oil and dryers and thinners to make it easier to wipe on and go smooth in a premixed style. Other brands of danish oil can work in different ways, some are varnish in an oily base to wipe on, and these ones are kind of bad. Tru-oil is linseed oil based, and is for gunstocks, it should give a good finish but I've no experience with it. Tru-oil is pretty recommended. I like the warm glow thing that danish oil does, think tru oil is a tougher finish since its for gunstocks, out in the weather and such, looks more like satin varnish when its done. This is the stuff I use: [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rustins-Danish-Oil-Interior-Exterior-Use-250ml-/310353767408?pt=UK_BOI_Building_Materials_Supplies_Carpentry_Woodwork_ET&hash=item484286abf0"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item484286abf0[/url] Can prob get cheaper if you look about. [/quote] Cheers for the info
  20. The fruits of today's labour... Smoothing out the upper horn and bout... [IMG]http://i.imgur.com/EbPo9l.jpg[/IMG]
  21. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1325176111' post='1480610'] The green stuff on a roll is aggressive and lasts, for shaping and getting rid of router marks. Cabinet scrapers are what was used pre sandpaper for really flat fine finishes on cabinets: [url="http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html"]http://woodgears.ca/scraper/index.html[/url] used perpendicular rather than cutting, they scrap a layer off. I used Rustins danish oil. Can only recommend Rustins, other danish oils haven't been as good for me. The 250ml small bottle is plenty for a bass, and some white spirit to thing the early coats. Long process, mine still smells of stale nuts as the oil polymerises after the solvents evaporate. [/quote] The two Oils I can find are Danish and Tung Oil, do you know much about the Tung? Plus, ever come across Tru-Oil?
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