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Everything posted by cheddatom
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I see, that's understandable. A general question to all of those who gig with more than one bass: Do you leave your basses plugged in all of the time, and use a channel switcher to switch between basses? I can see the need for a switchable volume control, so that the volume for each bass can be levelled out and set, and switched. However, I don't understand why you would leave basses plugged into an A/B switch all the time, it would really annoy me! I have always used a mute switch and just swapped the jack cable going into my bass. Do you think this looks unproffessional?
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Instead of plugging into return A and return B, plug into the input jack, and set the mode to A/B. Then you can use the LS-2's footswitch as an A/B switch with adjustable levels, and get rid of your AB-2
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Yes, but I don't see why you can't plug the wireless straight into the LS-2 instead of using the AB2?
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I said in PM to OG but thought it would be helpful here: You can switch up by 10 patches with the B2.1U if you have an external footswitch. If you set A2 and B2 and C2 all the same, you can seamlessley switch between banks of 3 effects - i.e. you want to move from A2 to B1 seamlessley? Change to B2 first, and then down one. If you want to be able to switch up AND down with the B2.1U you have to mod it. The mod is easy - basically attach a couple of momentary footswitches to the "finger buttons" that go up and down 10.
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I don't fully understand this, but..... I heard that "star grounded" connectors are better than fully isolated, especially for getting rid of ground loops. I don't know which way it works, but I have a godlyke powerall that I run at least 18 pedals off, and it's noise free!
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It looks like you're using the AB switch and LS-2 to create two footswitchable volume channels? The LS-2 can do this on it's own you know!
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Lots of Drum gear for sale
cheddatom replied to Mikey D's topic in Accessories & Other Musically Related Items For Sale
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It's only the MEs that do this and only in "patch mode" as far as I know.
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[quote name='tayste_2000' post='227843' date='Jun 27 2008, 09:53 AM']Works perfectly fine on 9v as with all old Dod pedal (Cos that's what it is really Division of Digitech - DOD)[/quote] I knew they were connected, but didn't know that's where the initials came from? Cool, I will think about this. I've always wanted one but should be saving my money for mics etc at the moment.
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I used to take a spare but then stopped because of space in the car. I have snapped strings at a couple of gigs, but I just keep on playing. If it's before the last song, i'll leave it, otherwise I will put another string on quick snap!
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What about a Zoom b9.1ut? I don't know if they're out yet though.
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[quote name='Oscar South' post='227512' date='Jun 26 2008, 04:58 PM']I didn't know Carlton Banks had a band. Didn't like the bass playing though, at all. Or the rest of the band.[/quote] Is that a fresh prince of bel air joke?
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A buffer can compensate for any "tone sucking" that arises from feeding your signal through lots of pedals and consequently pedal connectors and patch leads etc. It can also compensate for any signal degredation caused by using long leads. I'm not sure if it matters where abouts in the chain it should go. I doubt you will notice a difference either way, unless any of your true bypass pedals are effect by impedance.
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I would get the peavey grind 6er.
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Isn't there a peavey grind 6 string on this board somewhere? That was really cheap I think. Other than that, there are other basses around used in the UK that might be better value? I got my brice because it worked out at £150 at the time. I couldn't find many pictures, and these aren't great sorry!
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Calling pubs on the phone can often be helpful, especially if you're not local. We've scored gigs in london based on cold phone calls and our myspace page and/or posting a demo. Lots of pubs will have a designated gig-promoter (more of a putter-onner and f*cker-offer) or an agency that you will have to deal with instead, and the pub will give you the relevant phone number.
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Is it released? I want to play it in a shop!
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[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='226607' date='Jun 25 2008, 12:09 PM']Yeah man, ProTools HD is what I’ve used for almost all the recording I’ve done over the last 4 years. The control 24 is getting on a bit now, but that’s what I mean about the dedicated interfaces. The new DigiDesign interfaces are incredible. This is getting a bit off topic now though.[/quote] I think that if you have a good pre-amp rack or two, connected to a computer with a good interface, and a good controller for your DAW, then you can do at least as good for less money. If you have the money though, the dedicated hardware will save you time and effort etc. It is off topic yeh, sorry to OP. The UX1 sounds good, I haven't looked at that!
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[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='226567' date='Jun 25 2008, 11:28 AM']not had much experience with professional studios or ProTools then? Just the lack of dedicated interfaces for any other software makes ProTools a favourite for pro’s, let alone the quality of the product.[/quote] I have plenty of experience of pro tools, and a little experience of serious top-end proffessional studios (who were incidentally using pro tools). Why you would need an interface dedicated to a specific DAW I haven't got a clue! Possibly to run the TDM plug-ins? I suppose that would make sense. The more important fact is that there are lots of DAWs out there to choose from, all with comparable features, and just because a lot of proffessional engineers express a public affection for the product, doesn't mean that is' the best product. Having said all of that b*llocks, have you ever used pro tools HD24 with a control 24 interface? That's a pretty sweet setup! So easy to use, and the pre-amps are amazing!
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I have a brice 6 string but it looks more like the one above than the one below. It actually looks great on stage, i'll find some pics if you want? As far as the bass goes, it's VERY nice for the money. The pups aren't uber-powerful, but then my main comparison is my schecter studio 6 so..... Compared to that it plays almost as nice, the neck is very similar in feel (if not nicer than the schecter) and it sounds great through my rig, and on my recordings (link in my sig).
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[quote name='Jamesemt' post='226552' date='Jun 25 2008, 11:09 AM']I agree! To make things easy, will just look at recording myself at the moment. IE only one track needed at a time. Willing to consider the H2, but would need really really easy software to drag the tracks into the correct (start) timing. Is there software that will allign based on a starting click or something? Like a timecode in video editing?[/quote] And easy way to do it, would be to get the click going through your headphones, and hold them next to the H2 while it records for 10 seconds, then put the headphones back on and play. That way you have 10 seconds of click track to line up to the click/beat in the DAW. You can do it visually if you can see where the drum beats are. I do it all the time when i'm using my crap soundcard.
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[quote name='benwhiteuk' post='226545' date='Jun 25 2008, 11:04 AM']When it comes to the best, ProTools is the standard[/quote] I think that's not necessarily the case, and even if it was, it would be unjustified considering the competition out there.
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Arrgh, it gets a bit confusing if you're not sure what you want to acheive! If you probably wont need more than 2 mics at the same time, combined with some line inputs (and you could combine the H2 if you drag things into time, which is quite easy), there are sh*t loads of cheap interfaces out there with 2 built in pre-amps. EG M-Audio Delta 1010Lt, Mbox (I think it has 2 preamps?) tascam us122 etc