rubis

I am in the middle of a build at the moment and will be using an aftermarket Stingray style bridge but adding the bridge studs and also a string mute kit, which has just arrived today. The string mute kit looks like this and has the thumbwheel adjusters. [attachment=149918:thCA3TYQXG.jpg] I will need to put in some threaded inserts for the adjusters, but looking at pictures of old MM bridges it seems they are machined away on the top to allow for the string mutes, as you can see in the second picture [attachment=149919:B8.jpg] My question is, are they machined away underneath too, which would make more sense to me as then the mute assembly won't be lifting the front edge of the bridge up (albeit by very little) Any help would be great

A point worth remembering here is that this tool is an experienced enough player to be in a gigging band and is supposedly a sound engineer to boot, so surely he should have the sense and experience to treat this gear with upmost respect, regardless of the power ratings involved, its a bit like an advanced driver asking for a spin in your car and then blowing the engine and doing a runner.............as someone else has mentioned earlier, if it was fine beforehand, then he has vandalised your gear with his reckless behaviour. If he doesn't put his hand in his pocket, then name and shame him, his band and the place where he is a sound engineer, because I wouldn't want him repeating this on anyone else's hard earned gear

I like that, puts me in mind of The Blue Nile a bit too

Dave gave me an unwanted copy of Wavelab, posted very quickly, what a gent ! They don't come any more highly recommended !

Nice, like that little unstained stripe around the edge

I'd like that if you still have it please Rumple

Be careful if you try masking off areas to be left as bare wood, once you remove the masking tape there will be a ridge around that area which would need to be feathered in. It might be easier to refinish it then re-relic it, or better still as Grangur says, gig it and relic it naturally. Good luck whatever you do

Cheers, how this does the foam need to bee?

What would you need and how would you go about making your own?

Glad it went well! Is that your PJ with the Wizard 64 bridge pickup.......how does that sound? I've got one waiting to be paired up with a Bare Knuckle pickup in a PJ format, thinking of doing it stacked knob style Cheers Harry

[sup]Nice one awesome player This bloke does a nice job of it, and others too, includinig my favourite........One of us [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgMj8Pg_yws"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fgMj8Pg_yws[/url] [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLC-5L-pCFc"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CLC-5L-pCFc[/url][/sup]

+1 for Bare Knuckle pickups, have one in a Westfield copy and it's so nice I'm going to build a bass around it, as the Westfield's neck is too slim for my shovels! Very nice pickup indeed, I should think it would sound awesome in your bass

Lush, very nice choice of woods

The body and neck as they are at the moment weigh in at 8lbs, the neck pocket needs profiling a little bit more, the neck itself needs shaping and obviously the hardware is to be added, but even so I think it should be a reasonable weight when finished, lighter than the walnut Blingray I made previously anyway, and that's not too heavy for me. I think that using so much wenge has bumped the weight up a bit, the top is 12mm thick, so I reckon if you were to build one using lighter woods the difference would be more noticeable. Now..........more tales of ups and downs ! I decided to recess the control plate flush with the body, I've seen this done with neck plates and if this one was getting a neck plate I would have done this too, but I can't find any aftermarket 6 hole neck plates so I will use cups and screws. Then I made a start on the neck pocket and all was going well.......I put masking tape onto the top and then used my laser level thingy to line up the centre line on the neck with the centre joint on the top. I then hold a straight edge against each side of the neck and mark a pencil line onto the masking tape which gives a kind of extention of the neck along the body. Then I clamp two same-thickness boards along these lines and a piece of wood to act as a stop where the heel of the neck is and these are my guides for routing the neck pocket, other people make templates but for one off jobs this seems more accurate, easy and quicker for me. Now for the downs........whilst routing the neck pocket, the bit slipped down.....I obviously hadn't tightened up enough......and it made a channel deeper than I had wanted to go for the pocket. I suppose I should count myself lucky that the bit didn't fly out and damage me, but I was well vexed. At first I thought it was trashed, but then I decided to have a try at a repair, luckily I had kept lots of off cuts of the Tambooti and I managed to match up the grain on a piece with the grain on the end of the neck pocket. I sanded it down to fit and then filled the rest of the gouge with another piece and glue mixed with sawdust. Once it was dried and re-routed it's not so bad, most of it is hidden by the neck and the visible part has blended quite well, once it's all sanded and finished you'll have to look fairly hard to see it. [attachment=147892:DSC05563.JPG][attachment=147887:DSC05558.JPG][attachment=147888:DSC05556.JPG][attachment=147889:DSC05560.JPG][attachment=147890:DSC05561.JPG]

I had an 1153 cab and one of those 2x10's with the 5" speakers and it sounded lovely and smooth, this looks like a nice combination of both if you could talk someone else into carrying it for you

must admit I've not seen one of these before, I should think it sounds very nice.............but heavy! [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRACE-ELLIOT-1515-5-10-15-300W-Bass-Cab-VERY-RARE-/291008425342"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRACE-ELLIOT-1515-5-10-15-300W-Bass-Cab-VERY-RARE-/291008425342[/url]

Birdseye maple unlined fretless wal.............I don't want to talk about it [attachment=147417:wal4.jpg]

It's been a long time since this post was updated, but there is now some progress to add! I have glued the fingerboard and the headstock veneer and roughly cut the neck to shape. The logo on the veneer was changed in favour of the other style, as it was easier for the laser cutter. This whole process was a little tricky, we did a bit of practice on scraps of Sycamore veneer and decided to go for etching rather than cutting right through wood as it left lots of weak points and bits breaking off. I will fill in the logo with some contrasting material, but I'm undecided at the moment on what to use. I have considered fine sycamore dust mixed into superglue or epoxy, silver solder melted in then sanded smooth ( although I have heard this may shrink when it cools and can drop out ) or maybe a liquid fill, this can be some sort of metallic powder mixed with expoxy............there's lot's of interesting stuff on youtube! Anyone got any experience or knowledge on any of these matters? I have got some parts from Ernie Ball Spares, a bridge fastening kit which comprises the two bridge bolts and three screws. The screws seem beefier than the ones supplied with the generic bridge which I will be using. It's not a bad unit, I like the saddle grooves on the outside saddles, but it will be interesting to see if the bigger screws and bolts make for a better union will the body. I also got a compensated nut, it was the same price as a standard one so why not (nut)? I have a Tele with an Earvana nut (which cost a lot more) and it does make a noticeable difference. Whether this will be the case with a bass remains to be seen! [attachment=147395:DSC05548.JPG] [attachment=147396:DSC05549.JPG][attachment=147397:DSC05540.JPG][attachment=147398:DSC05547.JPG][attachment=147399:DSC05545.JPG][attachment=147400:DSC05543.JPG][attachment=147401:DSC05555.JPG][attachment=147411:DSC05550.JPG]

Very nice indeed, this is like watching a very slow motion stripper.................so I'm told!

Nice, you may be changing my views on block inlays!

My son sleeping

Started reading it today at work. It's just a paperback as far as I'm concerned. Seems quite good so far though, definitely wordier than than Shaun Ryder's!

oooooooh, very contentious

Found this on youtube, very interesting to watch, I also looked at his website, I love to see people take this much care, shame the videos don't go up to the point of completion [url="http://www.youtube.com/user/EleCustomBasses/videos"]http://www.youtube.com/user/EleCustomBasses/videos[/url] and his website has more beautiful stuff [url="http://www.youtube.com/user/EleCustomBasses/videos"]http://www.youtube.com/user/EleCustomBasses/videos[/url]