rubis

Cleanest amp?..............Geddy Lee's washing machines on a boil cycle would be my guess

Could it be fitted into a pedal? Then you could use it on all of them, or anything else for that matter Harry

I'd like the Yamaha bits please if they're not already taken

Those girls have you wrapped around their fingers

I'll be on to them, compliments on your wood sir

Cracking job

If possible, could you wire one up, you clearly know your way around a soldering iron better than me. I can send you one with the payment if you like

Very tidy looking work Tom Price is fine with me, still want a Sabre and a Stingray. Is it possible to have the Sabre output wired to one of these Neutrik plugs?, as this fits the G&L body it will be living in [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/6.35mm-stereo-long-reach-chassis-socket-223988"]http://www.maplin.co...s-socket-223988[/url] cheers Harry

You lucky lucky man! Only my opinion of course, but I think you should stick with tort on the buttercream one and also swap the mute bridge to that one and then go for a parchment pickguard on the refin one. Lovely paint job, who did it? Has the buttercream one got an East preamp by the way, how do they compare? Harry

Anyone got any advice or opinions on the chambering of bass bodies...ie does it really make any sonic difference or is it just a means of reducing weight? If it effects the sound, what effect does it have? What style of chambering works best.....full chambers, slots or holes? I have heard mention of balanced chambers...I understand the volumes of chambers are the same on each side but why? thanks in advance

Don't mind, I'd like one of each please

Very interesting build, where did you get the Purpleheart from, I've not seen it for sale anywhere in the UK

Oooo matron!

[quote name='steve-soar' timestamp='1342137032' post='1730405'] f*** em. And all the bullshit that has ever surrounded them. [/quote] I think, to some extent, there's bullshit surrounding any band that have employed a manager

[url="http://news.yahoo.com/ronnie-wood-says-stay-tuned-rolling-stones-gigs-175409806.html"]http://news.yahoo.com/ronnie-wood-says-stay-tuned-rolling-stones-gigs-175409806.html[/url]

I've got to the point now where it's time to apply the finish. I'm using this range of stuff made by Trade Secrets Stock Care [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture548.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture548.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] It's similar stuff to Tru Oil and I've used it on necks before and liked the feel of it, as this bass is mostly walnut and this stuff is made for gunstocks, which I'm told are mostly walnut I should think it would be the ideal finish. It's too wet to spray lacquer here anyway and showing no signs of drying up. The first step is to apply the grain sealer, which looks like chocolate milkshake. You apply two quick coats then leave it for an hour before sanding it off using 400 wet and dry lubricated with the Alkanet oil. This stuff is a pale sort of reddish colour and is described as a gain enhancer. This is the grain sealer going on [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture546.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture546.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] As walnut is such an open pored wood it took a few coats of grain sealer to get it looking smooth. This next step shows the Alkanet oil going on, it does pop the grain and deepen the colour somewhat. I did a couple of applications of this and stopped there because it was also deepening the colour of the veneer a bit [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture549.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture549.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Then the laborious task of applying the Rapid Oil. The claro walnut facings, despite being grain filled soaked the Rapid Oil up like nobody's business. I was intending to do a lot of coats on it in order to get a glossy finish, on the body and headstock at least, and it looks like I will need to! This is the cavity cover after 3 coats [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture550.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture550.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] I have also drilled 'string through' holes in the bridge to give this option, but instead of using single string ferrules I made a brass ferrule block. This is an idea I saw on the TDPRI site and have done it on telecasters previously, I think its a neat solution as I find it easier to rout than to try to get individual ferrule holes to line up perfecly and also it allows experimentation with different materials......brass, steel or aluminium

LawrenceH and RichardH, are you boys identical twins?

By gunstock oil, do you mean Truoil or similar? As luck would have it I was in a gun shop yesterday getting some grain filler and Alkanet oil to use along with Rapid Oil (which I'm told is the same thing as Truoil)

Coming along very nicely

I did some more work on the body, making the contours a bit more Wal-like and adding the little leg contour for seated playing, I was in two minds about that but I'm glad I was talked into it, thanks Rumple, if nothing else it makes the waist look a bit more pinched in and curvy. I did the neck mounting holes and fiddled about a bit with the control cavity to get the pre-amp to fit in. I was fortunate enough to get an original MM pre-amp from EmmettC here on Basschat and it came on the scratchplate from an SR5 and with the switch wired in, now the pick-up I have does not have the dummy coil, so am I right in thinking that I could still use the switch to get the series/parallel options but that the single coil position will not be noise cancelling? The pickup wires look the same as others on the Duncan website and I'm not sure it would get much use in single coil mode anyway. I used the SR5 scratchlate to mark the pickup position relative to the neck pocket and routed that out then used a Dremel style doobry to do the switch slot. I still need to do the output socket hole but I had to do some modifying. I'm using one of those Telecaster style Switchcraft sockets because I think they look a bit more elegant than the square side mounted Stingray ones, but I had to re-tap the threads to fit the output socket on the pre-amp. One curious thing I noticed about the pickup I'm, using, it's a second hand Duncan SMB4a, is the tarnishing on it which you can see on this picture Now, the plastic cover I think will clean up with car dashbord cleaner of failing that acetone ( I don't mind if the Basslines logo comes off completely as it's already started to) but the E-string pole pieces have some odd burn-like marks on them. Any ideas what might have caused that? Or how to get rid of them? I've tried acetone and then thinners and neither did the trick.

Glorious

Then I trued up the neck and began shaping the back of the neck, again using files, rasps and sanding blocks, nothing revalationary there,but a long winded process as you know. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture519.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture519.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] I did the side position dots and the nut slot then the radius on the fingerboard, the usual method of chalking, then sanding it off and regularly checking to make sure I wasn't going too heavy on one side or at one end [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture518.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture518.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Then came the neck pocket. I've seen and tried several methods with various levels of success, this is a distillation of the easiest parts (for me anyway) As this is a one off I didn't make a neck pocket template, instead I clamped two straight boards to the edges of the neck and trued it up with one of those laser levels you can get from diy shops, lining up along the seam of the top set and with an allen key which I stuck into a little hole drilled on the centrepoint inside the nut slot. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture525.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture525.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Then I marked along the inside edges of the boards and removed the neck. I then clamped, rather than use carpet tape ( which has gone pear-shaped for me in the past) the boards back onto the body, lining up against the pencil lines and put in a stopper for the end of the neck pocket, before routing away. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture526.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture526.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture521.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture521.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />/url] ][/url] Back to work on the neck, more rasping, filing and sanding its pretty much where I want it now, a nice thick profile as I've got quite big hands and they cramp up on skinny necks. [url="http://i759.photobuc.../Picture544.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture544.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] The only bit of this I found laborious was the bit where the fingerboard slopes down onto the top of the headstock, that seemed to take ages to get smooth [url="http://%5Bimg/"][url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture.jpg"][url="http://i759.photobuc...ray/Picture.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc...ray/Picture.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />]