rubis

Nice one Edward, this is on my 'to do' list. I will be watching and learning What drivers are you using?

I agree, I'll make the time and do it tonight, shouldn't take long really

The next job was to gllue on the front veneer and topset, same method as before, nothing new learned there. Then came one of the more enjoyable parts of the build, doing the contours. The edges were given a slight roundover with the router and will be finished off later by hand, I feel safer that way! Then I made the most of a rare sunny day and went out into the garden, clamped it to a workbench and went at at with rasps, files and 80 grit. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture515.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture515.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] My original idea was to emulate the Wal contours as it was an extremely comfortable bass for my shape, slightly rounded on the forearm part and quite sharp and deep on the back. However this just didn't look right so I altered it for a more generic look. Its still a comfortable shape. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/WalBass5.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc...ay/WalBass5.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/WalBass3.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc...ay/WalBass3.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] I didn't do the little cutaway for your leg when you are playing seated, I don't recall whether it made any difference to be honest. I suppose I could add it on, what do you think?

Bugger me that was quick work, and even quicker drying paint! Lovely job Kevin

Next job was to to get the facings on the body and stabilise everything. I did the back first so that I could get the control cavity sorted out. The facings had warped slightly as well as the body, maybe it was the damp Devon climate and/or my not storing them properly (more likely) but I gave them a quick wetting down and stored them for a few days pressed between weights while I put a cherry wood veneer on to give it more of that Wal look, like this [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/WalBass3.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc...ay/WalBass3.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] I jointed the facings on a homemade shooting board using a plane but I have always had mixed results with this method, due to my poor technique I'm sure, so in this instance I finished it off with my trusty sanding stick [url="http://<img%20src="]">http://[/url] Then I glued it up using the method described in Melvyn Hiscox's book (how many people got the bug from reading that?) where you place them on a large board with a spacer under the joint then put panel pins along the outside edges and remove the spacer. Just for good measure I put some weights along the joint to press it flat. I'm sure it would be a lot easier and quicker with the appropriate clamps but I don't have any and part of the satisfaction is from finding ways of getting by without. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture514.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture514.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] The next job was to cut out part of the back facing which will eventually form part of the control cover. this will be glued to the piece I cut off the body blank along with some of the cherry wood veneer. So, using my body template, I routed the back down to make a walnut veneer. I would like to say I have nerves of steel and I am an Olympic standard router-er but I would be telling lies! Any way, when I stopped routing and checked the depth I realised that what I had left was about 1.5mm thick.....never one to push my luck, I couldn't unplug the router quick enough,! [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture476.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture476.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture475.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture475.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] All that was left was to carefully cut the veneer away form the facing with a craft knife [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture477.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture477.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] carefully push it through [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture478.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture478.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] and breathe a huge sigh of relief [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture479.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture479.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Once stuck together and cleaned up I was very pleased with the end result, the idea being that the grain on the cover plate is a perfect match for the facing and the cover plate looks like the rest of the base with the two walnut woods and the veneer between. I did a little battery compartment and finished shaping the cavity before I plut the front facing on so that I could get a cleaner finish inside. The cover will be held on with those little neo magnets (which the kids love) and I made a little finger recess to prise it off [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture536.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture536.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture534-1.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc...icture534-1.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />]

If I'm not mistaken that one is a transparent white finish on an ash body. One of my favourites too, but you need a grainy piece of wood to show through

Thanks gents, very kind words, I'm not sure about the neck dive theory Rumple, there must be a boffin or two on this forum that could lend their considerable intellect to the cause and save the likes of us a lot of trial and error I work at a school and so I have access to some machinery which makes these projects much easier. While the body was going pear-shaped I got the two neck blanks cut for laminating. They will be in the Wal style, 5 piece with, in this case, walnut (what else?) stringers. If I remember rightly Wals have Hornbeam stringers. The necks will have carbon rods for added stiffness [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture461.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture464.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] The headstock was thicknessed and then I used some offcuts from the facings to make headstock veneers, it was laborious sanding them down, I'm sure there's an easy time saving way but I've always done things the hard way.....it's good for the soul! [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture466.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture469.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] Once the headstock veneers were the right thickness I microwaved them and stuck them to the headstock, this was tricky as they were only just big enough to cover the outline of the headstock shape. As well as using loads of clamps and offcuts from other necks to keep it in place and flat, I pinched one of those tubular metal stuntpegs from my daughters bike which was just the right radius to press the veneer into the headstock radius, sorry Ruby, but I just might have saved you from injury! [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture470.jpg" class="ipsImage" />]"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture470.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] Next step was the fingerboard, I've had both lined and unlined fretless basses in the past and while lined ones are undoutedly (for me at least) more convenient and easier to get up to speed on, I do much prefer the uncluttered elegance of an unlined board. My ex-Wal had a gorgeous black ebony unlined fretboard with just the mother of pearl side dots. However that was nearly 30 years ago when I had unlimited time to practice at it, now things are different so a compromise was in order and I decided I would have a go at doing quarter lines. Given the choice of body woods I thought Maccassar Ebony would look better than black and couldn't resist the two I got from Prime Timbers......well named as we all know! I cut up some offcuts of veneer from a previous Tele build and made cuts into the fingerboard, marking these out was a headache to say the least and I still don't know if they will end directly under the E string. [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture465.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture474.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] The fingerboard was then glued on and the next step was to glue on a second veneer on the rear of the headstock [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture516.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url] [url="http://[img/"]http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture517.jpg" class="ipsImage" />][/url]

a novelty paint stirer?

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FENDER-TELECASTER-BASS-NECK-1978-/110902632139?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19d24fdecb"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FENDER-TELECASTER-BASS-NECK-1978-/110902632139?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item19d24fdecb[/url] bit of tidying up and it'll do nicely

The first job on the body blank was to step it down with a router leaving a raised block where the control plate will be, and then cut out this raised bit off (the hard way) to produce a plate which matches the grain. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture007.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture007.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] This will form part of the control plate later. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture424.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture424.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Then the outline was cut out and the original control cavity shape was routed, this was later altered to accomodate the preamp and selector switch. The body was flat sanded and deliberately left slightly thicker than usual. The reasoning behind this is that the body blank width was slightly too narrow, which means the finished width will be 1-1.5cm undersize. I don't want the bass to be neck heavy like some other basses I've owned so I'm taking no chances, also the blank is not as heavy as I imagined it would be. Another reason is that I have other basses of various thicknesses and weights and it seems to me (I may be wrong) that the thicker ones have a bit more sustain and (dare I say it ?) body to them. Maybe it will make no difference, who knows, but it won't exactly break my back finding out! It was at this point that a bit of misfortune struck, my fault I admit. The blank was laid up for a time while I worked on the neck blanks and I didn't store it properly. The result was that the body developed a noticeable cupping. [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture480.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture480.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] I did bit of research into this and then tried a mixture of leaving it for a couple of hours on a wet towel [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture481.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture481.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] and then wetting it and storing it wrapped in plastic between two sheets of plywood with heavy weights on top.......seemed to do the trick, a bit more sanding and it eventually went flat enough to put the top and back on [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture482.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture482.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture512.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture512.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />]

Hi Rumple I started this a little while ago but I don't get huge amounts of time to spend on it so I didn't start a diary as I thought people would probbly lose interest, the build is actually nearing completion and I took quite a few pictures so I can do some quick updates. As far as hardware goes it will have a Duncan SMB4a, the preamp which EmmettC kindly sold me which I think came from his Stingray 5 when he updated it ( otherwise I would have gone for an East pre ). Tuners will be Schaller BM's and the bridge and control plate are generic ones, which to be fair are quite good quality. As you know MM don't sell spares so getting a genuine bridge and string tree (which has a smoother profile) is nigh on impossible and therefore expensive! I originally got some nickel BM's but then subsequently got some gold ones and after trying the gold ones against the walnut they actually looked much better, so gold hardware it will be...........it is a Blingray after all! I will be incorporating some design departures into it, not because I think the Stingray is lacking in any way but because its a personal build and I admire these features for one reason or another. I hope it entertains you and look forward to your views

Are they any good? I can't recall seeing any 'name' players using them

The idea behind this build, my first bass build, was to try to make a bass which would remind me of the beautiful fretless Wal custom I had back in the 80's, and which I really regret parting with. I didn't see the point of making a Wal clone when there are no aftermarket electronics available which would achieve that unique sound, so I turned my attention towards my other favourite bass the Stingray. There are plenty of bits and bobs available to get the Stingray sound so I decided to make a Stingray-type bass with obvious styling traits from Wal, and as Mr Wal is quoted as saying that walnut was his favourite wood for a fretless, I decided that's what I would (over)use. I intend (eventually) to make two necks with threaded inserts so that it can be swapped from fretless to fretted with the flick of a screwdriver, but I will be doing the fretless neck first, as that will get most use. As it's NOT a Stingray clone (I understand Sterling gets a bit tetchy about those sort of things!) the dimensions may not be completely authentic, and for various reasons some have been altered, so put your calipers away! Hopefully, when I eventually finish it, I will get a good sounding/playing/looking bass which I can be proud of. I have entered it in the competition on UK Guitarbuilders Forum I began to squirrell away bits and pieces for this build some time ago and I took lots of pictures so here goes; One piece American black walnut body blank. This blank is slightly narrower than I would have liked, ideally, and it means that the body will turn out about 1-1.5cm narrower than a MM Stingray but I can live with that as it's so nicely figured (Edit) [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture413.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture413.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Claro walnut top imported from Oregon Wildwood, it was so nice when it arrived I ordered another set with a consecutive cut [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/1818.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc...ingray/1818.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Two figured maple neck blanks, one will be fretless and one will be fretted. They will be 5 piece laminates and will have walnut stringers. (Edit) [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture449.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture449.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] Two Maccassar Ebony fingerboards from Andy at Prime Timbers, lovely, as always [url="http://i759.photobucket.com/albums/xx235/nibbsysdad/Blingray/Picture412.jpg"]http://i759.photobuc.../Picture412.jpg[/url]" class="ipsImage" />] [list] [*] [/list]

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Trace-Elliot-V-Type-Bass-Amp-spares-or-repair-/290733752397?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item43b115004d"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Trace-Elliot-V-Type-Bass-Amp-spares-or-repair-/290733752397?pt=UK_MusicalInstr_Amplifiers_RL&hash=item43b115004d[/url] has a problem overheating but sounds fixable

Nik Page does some amazing stuff, check out the Jazz-ish 5 string with a MM style humbucker.........the dice control pots are a bit 'Stray Cats' but what I presume are the neckscrews look bonkers! Reminds me of the back end of a TVR!

Just found this while I was 'doing some research' [url="http://www.nickpageguitars.com/bass_gott4.html"]http://www.nickpageguitars.com/bass_gott4.html[/url]

[quote]I would reiterate what the Hopkins bloke says. Stiffening rods in a quarter wenge neck would be uber overkill. You could end up not being able to straighten it should there be any natural bow in the wood. The truss rod wont touch it if you know what i mean. Just another opinion though. Good luck with the build man. [/quote] Sage advice from a master.......thank you Jon

Somebody raised that point regarding maple....sugar maple, quilted, flamed etc and the moderator said they must look like they came from the same tree so I imagine different types of ebony would count as different species........I wonder if they'd allow different colours of perspex though? I thought about an aluminium topped P bass though. I've got a half finished Variax conversion which is a Sapele thinline telecaster with an aluminium top and fake pickups and I think it will look cool. Like those Nik Page guitars....check out this link to Lemmy's new toy [url="http://www.nickpageguitars.com/bass_gott4.html"]http://www.nickpageguitars.com/bass_gott4.html[/url]

I'm sure if anyone could pull a rabbit out of the hat it would be you sir!

Just entered this, looks like it might be fun and there doesn't seem to be anyone flying the flag [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/3-wood-build-challenge-887238/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/3-wood-build-challenge-887238/[/url] This will be my entry, I will update it on here as well [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/3-wood-challenge-african-queen-894093/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/3-wood-challenge-african-queen-894093/[/url]

what about a device such as guitarlink plus from Alesis, jack at one end, usb plug at the other, straight into your computer [url="http://www.guitarguitar.co.uk/recording-studio/detail.asp?stock=11012510112032"]http://www.guitarguitar.co.uk/recording-studio/detail.asp?stock=11012510112032[/url] it comes with a cut down version of guitar rig which i'm pretty certain has a bass amp sim on it

lovely