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rubis

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Everything posted by rubis

  1. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Westfield-Bass-Guitar-Natural-Wood-Finish-Gig-Bag-Quicklok-Stand-/140734767692?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item20c472224c"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Westfield-Bass-Guitar-Natural-Wood-Finish-Gig-Bag-Quicklok-Stand-/140734767692?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item20c472224c[/url] nice and clean, looks good value
  2. [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Wal-Fretless-Bass-Guitar-fabulous-/120890082311?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1c259c4407"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rare-Wal-Fretless-Bass-Guitar-fabulous-/120890082311?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item1c259c4407[/url]
  3. .......oar-some build quality then? budum teesh...... "I'm here all week"
  4. Up for sale is my Fender Stratocaster 40th anniversary made in the USA in 1994 very rare and collectable only 1954 made, this one is numbr 1514 and I am the only owner its had. It has all the little details you'd want to find in a 50's Stratocaster: a beautifully grained ash body with a 2-tone Nitro cellulose sunburst; all maple nitro finished neck with Kluson tuners and "spaghetti" headstock logo, single ply white pickguard loaded with vintage voiced, staggered pole alnico pickups, the bridge pickup has an easily removeable Lindy Fralin bassplate for extra twang and bite; vintage 6 screw bridge with stamped steel saddles; 3-way selector switch; wide spaced 12th fret markers.It has the killer looks of a real '54 Strat! The guitar is numbered on the back of the headstock " 1514"of 1954" and the back trem cover is engraved with "1954", the neck plate is specially engraved. The pickguard is signed by the legendary Peter Green, he complimented me on the guitar and strummed a few chords on it which I like to think gives it a bit more mojo! Its in pristine condition with no playing wear or scratches, it's never been gigged and has only been out of the (smoke free) house a few times. It was played fairly regularly at one time but now sees little use. The guitar comes with its 2 original cases,one black ABS modern style with an Anniversary badge, and 1 vintage style brown form fit case with red lining. All the original case candy is still bagged up and present, the leather strap, lead, hang tags, trem arm with the little blue spring,and as well as the usual booklets there is a reproduction of the original 1954 catalogue and dealer letter. If you want the guitar but don't want the Peter Green signature on it (which I think will only add to its value) I will get a proper Fender pickguard fitted. I have seen two others for sale recently which are neither as complete nor well looked after as this one so I am asking £1250 for it which is very fair Here are links to the others [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-Fender-40th-Anniversary-Stratocaster-Ltd-Edition-/290593950963?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item43a8bfccf3"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Used-Fender-40th-Anniversary-Stratocaster-Ltd-Edition-/290593950963?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item43a8bfccf3[/url] [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Stratocaster-40th-Anniversary-1994-1954-Ltd-ed-US-Only-1-954-Made-/320879872534?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4ab5ee4a16"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Stratocaster-40th-Anniversary-1994-1954-Ltd-ed-US-Only-1-954-Made-/320879872534?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item4ab5ee4a16[/url] I would prefer it to be collected in person, but if the buyer is commited I am willing to arrange to meet halfway [attachment=103984:Picture 550.jpg] [attachment=103985:Picture 551.jpg] [attachment=103986:Picture 552.jpg] [attachment=103987:Picture 553.jpg] [attachment=103988:Picture 554.jpg] [attachment=103989:Picture 555.jpg]
  5. The Bare Knuckles P-bass replacement is awesome
  6. thanks dudewheresmybass89, does your loom look like this ? Is this normal, the wires go in one piece of the plastic connector box and come out the other side completely reversed! [attachment=103900:Picture 543.jpg] The nearest I could find to a schematic is this, if you click on the blue link in the middle of the screenshot it changes to a schematic. Is this the same as your wiring? Its meant to be the same circuit as used by Dean. [url="http://tuneguitars.com/wscmusic/wizmart.php?query=view&code=00130101&no=147&lv=3&c_type=2&sub_view_1=1#"]http://tuneguitars.com/wscmusic/wizmart.php?query=view&code=00130101&no=147&lv=3&c_type=2&sub_view_1=1#[/url] I've wired it pretty much as this shows, took the black and the bare from the pickup to the barrel of the jack, the white from the volume to the tip of the jack and the black from the volume to earth when I tried it there was no sound at all, no idea where I've gone wrong, have you? cheers for replying
  7. "Sanding and finishing required. Great project an the guitar is a great shape! "............he says! [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Guitar-Project-Custom-Bass-Guitar-Body-And-Neck-Completion-Project-/280850117921?pt=UK_Crafts_Other_Crafts_EH&hash=item4163f8b521"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item4163f8b521[/url] He's having better luck with the cricket bat that he's selling and to be frank I think it looks like it would play better
  8. I notice you are having a Warmoth body, have you considered one of their necks. I have a Tele neck and its both beautiful and excellent quality. They do bass necks with carbon or steel inserts now and you would be guaranteed an excellent fit You might well save enough towards an East preamp too
  9. I've just started using a product called Rapid Oil. Its a gunstock oil and it feels fantastic on the neck I used it on. Vey easy to apply and repair little dings. The finish ranges from matt with just a few coats to glassy with more coats. As its used on rifle stocks its very weather/sweat proof, perfect for necks. Its the same kind of stuff Musicman apply to thieir necks. There's a similar product called Tru oil which is the same but with a slight tint to it according to the lady in the gunshop!
  10. I have a MM style pickup and wiring harness from a 5 string Dean, Sledgehammer I think, which I want to put (for the time being at least) in my current project, to be found here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/165479-gl-body-project/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/165479-gl-body-project/[/url] Now, as electrickery is not a particular strong point of mine I thought it would be better to ask for help before warming up the soldering iron as I cannot find any schematics for Dean basses anywhere. I even joined the Dean forum and couldn't find anything. Anyone own a sledghammer, who could take a peek in their cavity for me ? As usual the harness (an e-bay bargain?) was snipped free and there are a few loose ends to tidy up. If you can see them well enough on the photo they are as follows [attachment=103051:Picture 541.jpg] 1) from the volume pot there is a white wire which leaves the middle tab, am I right in thinking this is a hot output and goes to the tip of the barrel jack (is that the smaller tab of the three on a Neurik jack?) 2) on the volume pot there is a tab which has had a wire attached but this has been snipped and not left any coloured sleeve behind as a clue, what could that have been? 3)from the pickup there are red and white wires (twisted and taped off.. fair enough leave alone!) a green wire:- where to?....a balck wire:- where to? and a bare wire with loose black sleeving over it:- earth? 4) from the pre amp loom there are purple/grey/white which go tho the bass pot... fine yellow/green/blue which go to the treble pot... also fine but there is a loose orange wire which is bound to a black wire which is soldered to the bottom of the bass pot. This orange wire turns green at the end, am I right in thinkng this is another earth and would be connected to an eath screw on the body? Then there is a red wire (which stays red!) and a brown wire which goes red at the end, these are bound together.........what do these connect to ? I imagine one of them must go to the the battery red wire, but which one? 5) does the black on the battery connecter go to the longer tab on the barrel jack ? what about the mediium length tab on the barrel jack, another earth ? does that go to the bottom of the pots which look like they were all daisy chained together with black wire? much obliged for any help or advice
  11. Aww, thanks Dave, I'm pleased it will be used properly, I would probably have cut it up to make a cover plate which seems the wrong thing to do all the best R
  12. C'mon gents, list your guilty pleasures. We all know it was a decade of tat, but there were some little nuggets amongst the sh*te drum sounds. I remember listening to a lot of Robert Palmer and Roxy Music, and discovering the Smiths, so what were your bassplaying highs of the 80's? Just to get the ball rolling here are two I still rate as pretty much un-improvable in the bassline department Talk Talk - It's my life [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ixRWvrkUHo&feature=related"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ixRWvrkUHo&feature=related[/url] and Propaganda - Duel ( Derek Forbes on a tasty Wal in this clip) [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Atk3Twn1Ur4"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Atk3Twn1Ur4[/url]
  13. I wish I hadn't looked at this, it's exactly like the unlined fretless I used to have once
  14. I like the look of this [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Jazz-Bass-5-String-Hydrid-Seymore-Duncans-Audere-3-Band-EQ-Sunburst-/280839230132?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item41635292b4"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Jazz-Bass-5-String-Hydrid-Seymore-Duncans-Audere-3-Band-EQ-Sunburst-/280839230132?pt=UK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV&hash=item41635292b4[/url]
  15. Hi everyone, a little bit more to show. I have fretted the neck, its the first time I've done fretting and I must admit I wasn't looking forward to it as the potential for messing things up was a bit worrying. I did them 7 at a time and superglued them in ( I doubt that this will need a refret anytime soon so it seemed sensible ) and I used a block of softwood to press them in with clamps. Seems to have worked well, or maybe I was just lucky but I've read so many horror stories about frettng. [attachment=101687:Picture 527.jpg] [attachment=101688:Picture 522.jpg] I have started rough shaping the neck profile with rasps, lots more shaping and sanding to go yet, but I'm pleased with the neck pocket fit, a pleasant evening spent whittling and sanding! [attachment=101694:Picture 536.jpg] I tried the neck out for alignment using one of those DIY/garden laser levels which worked a treat. Lined it up frome the middle of the bridge to the middle of the nut and marked the neck holes. [attachment=101695:Picture 531.jpg] [attachment=101696:Picture 530.jpg] In the end I opted for the bridge mentioned earlier and I'm impressed by the quality, quite weighty and a nice finish. As I understand it the Sun-il factory makes hardwear for other brand names as well. I have routed out for the Dean MM style pickup and had to make a bit of a compromise here. The existing pickup routing was fractionally longer and narrower than the Dean pickup, so in order to get an even gap all round I was left with a slightly bigger cavity than I would have liked. Not a disaster, at some point in the future I would like to add a couple of better quality pickups anyway so the problem may be lessened or worsened anyway! I could always fill it and repaint it!.....I'm not sure about the colour......it's a bit BMW-ish to me. I have been looking on G&L's website to try and find out the colour name. In the cavity there is a bar code and various sets of initials, one of which is BVM. G&L did a colour called Blue Violet Metallic (not very rock and roll) but I haven't seen pictures of any basses or guitars which look the same colour. I tried a bit of a dry fit and it looks ok, nice weight too on my dodgy shoulder! [attachment=101697:Picture 537.jpg]
  16. why not try swapping the necks around on the two you have to see if it makes any difference having 2 band eq on your fretless
  17. If you are happy enough with the 3 band eq, and I can't see what you'd gain with a 2 band ( but I know some people prefer them ) then why not just add a switch as you say for the pickup options? It might be less hassle to add a 3 way blade switch and also less likely to affect the resale value and sellability if you should come to part with it at a later date
  18. Sorry I haven't updated this thread for a little while, I've had router problems so the computor has been out of use, back now! I meant to say earlier that I appologise if you've read all these things previously, I'd hate to insult anyones intelligence but I find myself that build threads which show even the most obvious steps are the ones I learn the most from. Anyway! The next job was to glue on the fretboard, nothing worth seeing there, just a bunch of clamps! Only thing worth a mention was that I left the neck and fingerboard too long so that I could use a couple of pins to position the board whilst glueing, I actually used a Kerplunk straw and made two holes at each end, two beyond the end of the fingerboard which you can just about see in this pic [attachment=100987:Picture 523.jpg] and two inside the nut slot area, these won't be visible later. Then the edge of the neck was trimmed down and the radius sanded on with a 10" radius sanding block [attachment=100968:Picture 517.jpg] I marked the fingerboard with chalk and just went to sand off the chalk as evenly as I could, any high spots were highlighted further and rubbed out. [attachment=100969:Picture 518.jpg] I used 60 grit stuck on the sanding block with double sided tape Then I stuck in the dot markers, gold MOP, and used superglue mixed with some of that wierd rusty sawdust, which looks even more odd when it's stuck to the ends of your fingers! [attachment=100972:Picture 519.jpg] Then I sanded the fingerboard and markers a bit more! I worked down from 60 grit to 1000 and I must say the board looks nice, should be better with some oil on it Those with eagle eyes may notice that the nuts in the picture are for a tapered headstock design, I ordered three graphite ones and these came by mistake. I didn't have time to send them back as one was needed quickly on my p-bass copy so I just sanded it down into shape.. .came out ok though. Next job was the frets....I must admit I have never done any fretwork other than polishing and mild leveling and I was not looking forward to it (still not, cuz I'm not finished yet!) I used another handydandy device borrowed from a bloke on the TDPRI site.. he builds some awesome telecasters so if it's good enough for him...... [attachment=100976:Picture 520.jpg] You basically put a nick in a piece of wood for the tang of the fret to run through and then drag the wire through the wood with a slight upward lift, the same way you curl ribbon up when you're wrapping a xmas present. It works best starting from the middle and I found that you get a smoother curve by starting with very little pressure and then increasing the pressure and then easing off at the end (like feathering your braking for all of us chauffeur-like drivers!) It worked surprisingly well I have to say [attachment=100983:Picture 521.jpg] The frets were then cut to length and I made a little nick in each end with a dremel which was a fart-on but I'm hoping it will give the edges of the fingerboard a tidier look, the idea being that you fill the little gaps with sawdust and glue and you can't see the fret ends. [attachment=100985:Picture 525.jpg] The fret slots had to be re-cut and radiused so I used carpet tape again to stick a spacer on the side of my saw which makes the cuts at the required depth, just like the hideously overpriced Stew MacDonald stuff, more Old MacDonald actually! I held the saw up against the sanding block to keep it square and carefully re-did them, worked a treat! [attachment=100986:Picture 526.jpg] I used a similar method to cut the fret slots and also the nut slot before the board had been radiused actually but I didn't take any pictures, only difference being I used a flat block of wood clamped to the board. So that's it so far, lots more to do, I'll be back
  19. Just received a lovely Stingray 3 band preamp from EmmetC, see his thread on customising his 5 string [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=23"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=forums&module=post&section=post&do=new_post&f=23[/url] A kind and decent bloke, I'd say any dealings with him will be reliable thanks again Emmett
  20. There is a stippled kind of finish availabe in rattle cans, I used to have a Car Medic franchise and used it on car bumper repairs. You can paint over it too but it was a little trickier to apply than ordinary paint, its prone to clogging up the nozzle. # I imagine you could get from a good paint supplier
  21. A little bit more progress to show, I haven't had as much time to devote to things this week, got some done today though, and some was done a few days ago. I did the fret slots with my B&Q handydandy fret slotting machine....does the job ok! [attachment=100212:Picture 508.jpg] I took a picture of the sawdust form this fretboard....weird stuff it, looks like rust when you brush it off of something with a wire brush...lovely colour IMHO! It's rosewood of some sort from Prime Timbers, I think Andy called it Monkey Rope or something like that because of the markings on it. [attachment=100213:Picture 512.jpg] I managed to lay out a 4+1 headstock......only just! [attachment=100210:Picture 511.jpg] and used the fretless neck I started on for my other project as a sort of template [attachment=100211:Picture 514.jpg] I also did the access hole to get at the truss rod adjuster nut.......I 'd like to pretend that this went without a hiccup but I'd be lying! I thought I was being clever by putting a ball of masking tape inside the metal tube which covers the adjuster thing...to keep the glue from the headstock veneer form fouling it up. However the masking tape proved stickier than Sticky the stick insect and I couldn't pick it all out through the hole that I' carefully filed through. I lost patience after a while and removed the truss rod which meant I could pick it out easily and then goo the truss rod back in with more silicon. Good job I hadn't glued the fingerboard on at that piont or I'd still be tweezering away at it now! Hope to get some more done this weekend.....I'll post some more if your interested!
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