robocorpse

[quote name='SteveK' post='1133160' date='Feb 19 2011, 10:42 AM']I understand the need for drop tuning, but I can't figure what advantage there is for C# G# C# F# tuning.[/quote] Its a guitarists technique that the bassist has to follow to make it easier on the ensemble. If you tune down a 6 stringer and drop the low E another 2 semitones, you have an open powerchord in ridiculously low tuning, and thousands of metal bands use this technique, many through laziness, but it has become a style in its own right, as a load of the more floppy-haired type metalcore bands discovered Major 9ths a while ago, and its easier to play these on a guitar with the low E dropped 2 semitones...

Lemmy. Love him or hate him, he is absolutely unique. Played the bass like a guitar because he had never picked up a bass in his life and suddenly he was given a last minute gig with Hawkwind when the bassist never showed up and Dave Brock said that he knew someone who was there who could do it. 5 years later he left Hawkwind and formed Motorhead. The rest is history, and Lemmy (to this day) mostly plays chords halfway up the neck, through an overdriven Marshall so it sounds like an unbelievably fat, downtuned guitar.

Electronics grade solder has flux built in, no need for extra flux, its just as important to make sure the metal surfaces are clean before you start. Scotchbrite pads are good for this (nick one off the missus, or 99p for 3 in Tesco), and finish off with a quick wipe of IPA or meths on a tissue or cotton bud to degrease it. Don't touch any metal area you are soldering with your fingers after this point or you'll grease it again. Some cheap connectors have horrid plating that takes ages to get solder to adhere to without abrading it back to base metal, so stick to decent parts like Neutrik and Switchcraft. There is zero point paying double for the silver-loaded stuff at this level if you are just making up leads with OFC cable, a tiny bit of silver alloy in one joint will make no difference whatsoever against the hundreds of non-silver joints in every pedal, amp and factory-made cable you have in your rig. The eco friendly "Lead Free" solder is a pain in the arse as it has a higher melting point than traditional 60/40 and some smaller irons have difficulty with it on anything other than very small connections, so its no good for pots etc unless you have a decent iron of at least 20w with good heat recovery like a Weller PU, or you'll cook the plastic spindles while you wait for it to heat the joint sufficiently. That said, its getting hard to find 60/40 tin/lead solder now. The key to good lead making is tidiness of the preparation, exact cuts, careful removal of insulation so you don't lose or damage strands, neatness and order and no straggly ends or blobby solder. And a decent iron too. Antex XS25 is a good starting point, or a used Weller TCP series. Something between 20-50w with easily swappable tips. Under 20w and you'll have a hard time soldering anything bigger than a centre conductor, over 50w and you'll cook everything and won't be able to get fine tips. I think thats covered it?

[quote name='spongebob' post='1129918' date='Feb 16 2011, 05:19 PM']And has anyone ever looked cooler playing a P?[/quote] Deedee Ramone comes to mind, but he didn't have JJs incredible tone.

Bought a Sansamp from Eude, mega fast postage and a great deal. Cheers!

Grubby strip of gaffa on the bottom horn, slightly overlapping the edge so you can quickly remove a fresh pick in the heat of battle without having to reach for your pocket or your 99p plastic deathtrap "pick holder" that automatically makes you look like a beginner. I change the gaffa about every 10th gig or the picks don't stick so well

First Bass Owned: Rickenbacker 4001 'Go To' Bass: Status S2 'Your' Bass: Heavily modified Thunderbird

[quote name='SteveK' post='1122911' date='Feb 10 2011, 05:29 PM']If you see two 1962 Fender Precisions for sale, similar condition. The first bass 20 previous owners, the second only one previous owner - you would still expect to see them priced about the same. Number of owners is irrelevant - It's all about the condition.[/quote] Not necessarily, it is fairly common that a mint "under the bed find" 50 year old instrument is probably going to be a dog , hence never being played much. The really good players will usually get played to death in the meantime, and command less money, but be absolutely magical, even after 3 refrets, new bridge and losing 70% of the paint

[quote name='Starless' post='1108658' date='Jan 30 2011, 08:57 PM']An over-priced, dodgy QC novelty bass that has been sold over the years on the back of photos of McCartney, Squire, Geddy Lee, Glover et al. They've all moved on to other things when the novelty wears off. I've had four over the years, and all now gone. Never lasted beyond the novelty phase. Won't be getting a fifth one, no point. Fenders and Musicmans much better quality with no ridiculous design 'features' that hamper just about any playing style. There are much cheaper ways of getting a temporary buzz.[/quote] Lemmy would disagree with you there. 1972, 1981, 1989, Present.

[quote name='BurritoBass' post='1112939' date='Feb 2 2011, 08:15 PM']Most of the top players are using endorsements....which are free! [/quote] Yes I know, but the thread is "cheapest bass in most expensive situation" and it seems odd that such high profile players as Bernie and John are not only using £100 axes at live shows, they are endorsed too.

Bernie Torme (Gillan, Ozzy) and John McCoy (Gillan, Mammoth etc) both have endorsements with....... Vintage.

Lovely, thats sorted it out. "Compliance" was the term I meant, so I'm definitely sticking 35s or 40s on my next headless project.

[quote name='4000' post='1106540' date='Jan 28 2011, 06:16 PM']My least favourites are '74-'79 also, and I remember that '69 well....[/quote] Yeah, it was a corker wasn't it!. Oh, if you were wondering, your CS was the one with the paint issues (flaking at screws and that Frank Bello signature on the top bout)

Yeah, sadly I had the same recurring thought for a day or so after seeing it, and promising myself I'd get to more than 1 date on the next tour rather than just the local one.

Thanks for that, serves me right for not using the search button

+1 on the TU2. I have a TU3 as well, but the TU2 seems slightly better for bass. My rackmount Korg DTR2 is gathering dust...